1965 327/365, mostly original, 72k orig miles

I just finished replacing the engine harness and dash harness w/ Lectric Limited.
The car originally came w/ K66 TI, which was removed by some PO.
When I replaced the wiring, I also put the TI system back, i.e. correct harness, distributor, VAC, coil, and amplifier module. Distributor was gone thru and restored by Dave Fiedler, who confirmed they are correct for this car. I also purchased a new VAC (restored original) and amplifier circuit board from him, installed in restored orig housing.

I just finished the wiring install last weekend, so yesterday was the first time I tried firing the car. It would not start at first, and ultimately I had to move the distributor 2 teeth clockwise to get it to start and run.

So got it running, but initial timing was around 55*! I confirmed the wires on the distributor are installed in correct order and location, that I was on #1 plug wire w/ timing light, and vacuum was disconnected and plugged. Checked vacuum and was getting about 10.5" vacuum. The timing mark was never stable, and was constantly jumping +/- 10*. It ran a little rough, but honestly did not seem terrible. No pinging or knocking.

Prior to this endeavor, the car had a points distributor, and was tuned to 12* initial, 9.5" vacuum. I had issues w/ tuning a few years ago and had to rotate the gear at the end of the distributor 180* to get the above numbers. But once I did that, it's run great since. The timing mark was never really stable, it would hover at the mark, then bounce a degree or so every few seconds, but nothing like what it's doing now. I always attributed this slight bounce to the characteristics of the engine/ cam.

So clearly something is not right, and I'm looking for advice. I do have a couple of specific questions/ observations:

1. The voltage regulator is a FLAPS generic that I put on a couple of years ago. I did not change it when I installed the TI. Is there a different VR I should be using? I haven't read anywhere that there is.
2. Is there a way to check and set dwell on a TI distributor? Some adjustment somewhere?
3. A buddy who was here with me suggested the timing chain may need replacement. I'm reluctant to accept that only because it seemed OK before, and car has only 72k miles. Do chains go bad spontaneously, or would there have been gradual warning signs?
4. I accepted that my previous distributor needed to be messed with and gear turned since it was not original to the car and of unknown origin. But I'm having a hard time accepting that a new, correct, and rebuilt one needs so much tweaking.

The only thing that's really changed since the last time it ran well is the TI, so seems the problem lies in there somewhere, but I'm not sure what my next step should be. Any thoughts/ suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks

Jef

 

If the initial timing was REALLY set at 55* BTDC, the engine wouldn't even turn over, much less start and run; you have the timing light connected incorrectly.

The voltage regulator has nothing to do with it, there is no dwell adjustment on a T.I. distributor, and I'm sure the timing chain is fine too.

 

Try it again and connect it to #1 cylinder this time.......or #6.

Or the outer ring on the balancer has slipped........

Plasticman

 

I know a 55* reading doesn't make sense, but I am certain I was connected to #1 wire, that #1 was connected to the correct cylinder and the correct spot on the distributor cap, and that the timing light was properly grounded. I disconnected and reconnected several times.

I'll try another timing light, but this one is not very old and other functions work fine, i.e. RPM reading.

 

If you are sure the connections are correct find exact TDC and go from there. The damper could have slipped and this will verify.

 

You're either on the wrong plug wire, balancer has slipped or you have a dial-back timing light you're not using correctly, or, there are no springs at all on your centrifugal weights.

As JohnZ noted - that initial timing figure is bogus...

 

If you want to keep your balancer....here's the place's to use...


http://www.damperdoctor.com/

Or

http://www.damperdudes.net/

 

Thanks all - i do appreciate the replies.

I know i am connecting the light correctly, and i do know how to use it.
I agree the readings seem bogus - it doesn't seem possible to have such readings. I don't at all mean to sound defensive, just letting you know what i know to hopefully help better diagnose the issue.

Balancer slipping? I'll see what i can see regarding that. It is not loose now. I'll look into that.

So - let's assume for the moment that the timing is actually very close to what it should be, and the reading is just bogus due to equipment or user error. Why would it bounce so much? I read that MSD systems cause timing to bounce excessively below 3000 RPM due to "multiple spark events" - does a TI distributor have similar behavior to explain why mine is jumping so much?

 

The jumping around on the timing mark is an indication of spark scatter. The cause is either a loose worn point plate or excessive end gear play.

 

Try a different timing light if you can. No, TI ignitions do not mimic MSD units and timing is usually very stable. Unless you forgot to zero the dial on a turn back timing light, it flashes when it senses voltage firing the #1 plug (assuming it's hooked up to the right plug wire). So either the balancer has slipped or the timing light is defective.