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I have a stock 66 coupe 327/300hp. It does not show any signs of overheating, but it seems to me it runs a bit hotter than other cars I have owned. It usually runs around 210 and sometimes a bit warmer. The gauge has a "red" zone on it that is around 250. What temp does yours usually run?
My '63 will run between 160 and 180 except on really hot days when it will go above 180. However, on those days when it would run above 180, I stay home; it's too hot for me.
180 F by (professional) IR Temperature Gun. Shows about 160 F on the cluster gage, but this temperature has slowly declined over the years........the sending wire terminals probably a bit corroded and high resistance and need cleaning. Used to read 180 F on the gage years ago.
Car is 1967 327/350 HP with original radiator. When factory AC is put on, temperature runs up to about 210 F during the Louisiana summer.
Car has 180 F thermostat installed.
Larry
Last edited by Powershift; Jun 6, 2016 at 11:34 AM.
I just had my engine rebuilt in my '64 327/365 motor with new radiator, waterpump, and Evans Waterless Coolant being used. I'm seeing that I'm running between 180 and 210. When I do parades I'm running easily at 240. IR gun shows close to the temp gauge so I'm fairly confident about the gauge, though I feel the 210 is even hotter than it should be. I feel that with the Evans coolant, that could be the reason it's running warmer though.
180 F by (professional) IR Temperature Gun. Shows about 160 F on the cluster gage, but this temperature has slowly declined over the years........the sending wire terminals probably a bit corroded and high resistance and need cleaning. Used to read 180 F on the gage years ago.
Car is 1967 327/350 HP with original radiator. When factory AC is put on, temperature runs up to about 210 F during the Louisiana summer.
Car has 180 F thermostat installed.
Larry
Same model year and engine as Larry with very similar results. The only difference is when mine is showing the midway line (the line before the 210 mark) which I have always used as my 185 degree line, my car is truly running at 185 according to my IR gun. With A/C on...210-215 in stop and go traffic. New DeWitts restoration radiator, flushed cooling system and refilled with 50/50 Zerex, new K&B fan clutch, 7-blade fan, new hoses and distributor,vac can and carb setup per Duke, Lars, John Hinckley and others. In Texas, if your cooling system isn't efficient you're going to be parking your car from June-September
Last edited by leif.anderson93; Jun 6, 2016 at 04:53 PM.
327/300 with L-79 cam. Idle 600 rpm, timing @10 BTDC, dwell @30*. Temp not over 180* as long as car is moving. In heavy traffic, temp will gradually increase about 1-2*/minute to about 210 and hold steady. If ambient is over 90* then it might go to 220.
Bone stock '63 250hp....usually at 170* here in Orlando; sometimes 180* if I run the aftermarket A/C. Original radiator, sending unit confirmed accurate. I run a Hayden 2747 heavy-duty, truck, fan clutch and a bigger fan with extra blades. Prob not necessary but I like overkill for cooling here in Florida...
Car did fine with original fan/clutch in January for judging - never ran hot...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jun 6, 2016 at 12:15 PM.
Ok, this is gonna sound like total BS, but it's true. I was running a 160 thermostat for years on the rat. On warm to hot days (85 to 95 outside), it would run at 210 on the gauge, and close in on 230 after driving at 80 to 90 mph on the freeway for a few miles. The gauge is accurate at those temps. Just for the heck of it, I put in a 180 stat about 2 years ago. The running temp under the same conditions promptly dropped 20 degrees. Go figure.
65 327/300 hp with 350 hp cam and .060 overbore of the 65 870 block.
Runs 180-190 normally. Never had it in hot stop and go traffic. I'm sure it would climb a bit then. Timing 10* initial, 30* dwell. I restored this car 20 years ago and just now the past year have been driving it as I should have all those years. Pretty much stock, no hod rod upgrades.
I'm not sure what thermostat I have, but I can borrow an IR gun and verify that the temp gauge is accurate. In traffic, it reads around 240. But again, it shows no signs of overheating.
Yeah - I'm thinking inaccurate sending unit....and, of course, you are running vacuum advance off of FULL manifold vacuum I presume.. 240* at anytime would bother me and detract from driving the car....even if it wasn't overheating...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jun 6, 2016 at 01:00 PM.
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My 65 L79 always ran about 180 under most conditions when I first bought it with the original aluminum radiator in it back in 71. When I replaced it with a copper/brass radiator it would creep up to 210 or more in traffic or sustained highway on warm days. Once I went to a Dewitt's aluminum it runs as it did with the original radiator back in the 70's.
Ok, this is gonna sound like total BS, but it's true. I was running a 160 thermostat for years on the rat. On warm to hot days (85 to 95 outside), it would run at 210 on the gauge, and close in on 230 after driving at 80 to 90 mph on the freeway for a few miles. The gauge is accurate at those temps. Just for the heck of it, I put in a 180 stat about 2 years ago. The running temp under the same conditions promptly dropped 20 degrees. Go figure.
Probably a better quality and perhaps better working thermostat. They are not all created equal.
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