My right rear is loose. We heard a chirping sound from the right rear and upon inspection found looseness in the wheel and the conical beauty ring is loose. None of the other beauty rings are loose so I presume this is not normal. Per the manual I used the lead mallet that was spring attached to the jack. Hit the nut Hard meany times with the small lead hammer to the point I think it's ruined. Didn't budge. These are repos so the nuts attaching the splined axle may be loose, or axle bearing, etc. So now what? Right rear, so I was smacking clockwise. Pin was out. No joy.

After beating on it pretty sure the knock off is not loose. 1) Are there bigger lead hammers with maybe nylon head or something? 2) Anyone repair original mallets?

We just made a tool with a 6' cheater to torque 10' prop nut. May be making another. Really wish the Search function worked here. I'm afraid I'll be pestering you guys a lot.

 

Search function works just fine. Use the "advanced" search.

 

1) If you were hammering "clockwise" on the right (passenger side) rear, you were loosening the spinner, as that side has left hand threads.

2) I've never done it myself but I understand if you have a torch you can re-melt the lead hammers back into some assemblance of order.

3) I too had issues with the chrome trim covers being loose. I found some self adhesive rubber weather stripping cut into strips and fastened inside the cone itself makes for a nice snug fit, and silences any rattles.

Make sure you have indexed the wheel to the hub properly, (alignment pin holes vs lug nut holes) and then make sure the wheel is centered on the hub as the spinner tightens against the wheel. Once on the ground 8 or more solid whacks should seat it all in place. Then when aligning the holes for the security pin, only tighten more, do not go back or loosen the spinner to make the notches line up.

Hope this helps, good luck.

 

The instructions say to put some silicone adhesive under the cones to keep them from rattling.

I'd be more worried that you don't have the wheels indexed properly on the adaptor. You MUST have the large holes in the wheels over the lug nuts on the adaptor and the small holes over the guide pins on the adaptor. If you have the small holes over the lug nuts, you're going to end up with more problems than a chirping cone.

 

don't even think about using the stock lead hammer that was included in the tools with real KO cars. That hammer, whether OEM GM or or reproduction has a steel head holding the lead ends. One use of that hammer will deform the lead ends such that the steel head will soon be contacting your spinner ears, and gouging them up.
get your hands on a serious lead mallet weighing 5-6lbs and follow corvette KO wheel install instructions, and you will not have any problems.
here is one such serious lead mallet company
http://www.cookhammer.com/lead.html

 

I'm more interested in that 10 foot nut your talking about.

Post a pic of that please!!

 

65GGvert is right wheels indexed properly on the adaptor is the main
thing to look out for. They will go on wrong for a while till they come loose. Get a bigger lead hammer sold on Ebay you can fine them .
Here is a set of instructions

 

I have some "AL" weights if it's a balancing problem?

 

I have the long bolts somewhere when I dig them up I will take a picture .
Have markers on rims no movement yet. Next time they come off the long nuts are a sure way to be safe. Do search on forum all info there someplace.

 

If the spinner is on that tight then it must be loose lug nuts, spindle, or possibly play in the yoke at the differential. Looseness in the cone doesn't mean anything a they are all loose and have to be secured with strip caulking or silicon caulking underneath. But you do need to get a ******-thumper 6 lb hammer to deal with KOs. Anything else is just an exercise in frustration and possible damage to the spinner or wheel.

 

Warren, Didn't know there was an Advanced Search. Will find/use it.

Oaker, Yes, my goal was to remove the wheel to check nuts that attach the splined adapter. Never seen one, but have read about folks asking for the torque specs. I can imagine these loose. If not loose adapter nuts, then a look at the wheel bearing.

This is my first time removing knockoffs and I'm assuming they were properly installed prior to my purchase. Thx, I understand about the verifying alignment pins once I reinstall the wheel.

65GG, I'll be able to check they were installed properly once I get this wheel off. I know our wheels are repos bought in the mid '80's. Don't know brand yet. Thx

The looseness is like loose lug nuts on a regular wheel. Clunking/movement when pulling on the top of the tire or side to side. Really feels like loose lug nuts more than a bad wheel bearing.

65hi, I stopped once the lead mallet lead was deformed to near the steel part of the head. Kinda hurt to see that pretty mallet basically ruined.

Friday nite went on ~3 hour cruise. Midway when pulling up to a light we heard the chirping sound of something loose. Checked wheel top and side and it was tight. Must have been hearing the beauty ring sliding around as we came to a stop. So something else loosened on the return trip. Ordering the big mallet now.

69z, My poor wording. I was a nut FOR a 10' propeller.

I'll try to borrow a bigger mallet locally till mine get's here. I'm anxious to see if it's just loose adapter nuts. It's sure not a loose spinner. Yesterday was my first experience in my 64 years to bang on a spinner, so much to learn. Thx all, I've got a steep learning curve.

 

There are 2 different sized holes in the wheel hubs. If you mount the wheels with the smaller holes aligned with the lugnuts, the hub won't fully seat and the spinner will never develop enough pressure to keep themselves tight.
Be sure to align the lugnuts with the larger set of 5 holes.
I use a lead hammer that I bought from Zip years ago. I use anti seize on the knockoff threads and 15 good whacks with the hammer is all I need to keep them tight. I only remove them every few years to check the brake pads.

Similar to these:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=...&ul_noapp=true

 

rt, will do. Once I'm able to loosen spinners I will change to long nuts if not already installed. Learned that if we had had a tire problem, a tow truck would have been our only option. What do you mean by, "Have markers on rims no movement yet." The aluminum shear pin is evidence of no adapter to wheel movement. Don't know where you're checking for movement. Once I get this one off then I'll know the wheel manufacturer so I can get spare aluminum shear pins.

I agree Dan. Our car has new trailing arms and bearings. If not adapter nuts then will need to look at the bearing. I'm guessing the rear wheel bearing is a ball type and not adjustable like a tapered.

I need to research on repair manuals to purchase. Thx

 

This is the proper tool for KO wheels.

http://performanceunlimited.com/cobr...ls/hammer.html

The looseness could still be the differential yoke clacking in and out of the side of the differential. Have someone yank on the top and bottom of the tire while you watch for movement of the side yoke at the differential. If the amount of movement appears consistent with the looseness at the wheel, then there's probably nothing wrong with the KO wheel mounting other than a loose cone.

 

65, Yes, I could be dealing with a wheel improperly installed by the last guy who installed the wheel. Once I get the bigger mallet I intend to check/install long nuts and make sure all wheels are properly matched to the pins. I've never seen what you're describing, but will shortly and understand.

 

Look closely I have magic marker lines from cone to spinner .
this is very important take car out and use brakes and drive it to see if movement occurs.
Believe me I thought I had them on correct I did not .
Wheels came loose could of ripped fender off .
You can use pins if you want you don't need them ,I cant stress enough the importance of lining it up correctly.
There is nothing wrong will design ,don't let a mechanic do it like I did ,they don't know do it yourself so you know with confidence its done right. Or be there with them and make sure its right.
Don't trust nobody learn my lesson .
See wheel picture where in had them on wrong I even took to track like that thinking I knew what I was doing .The picture shown does not show long lug nuts ,you can see where I didn't line wheel up lugs were scrapping on holes not aligned.

 

Thx rt. 6 lb ****** Thumper hammer on the way. Anxious to see what's loose and to take off all wheels, inspect, and reinstall myself. Agree won't trust this job to anyone.

I wasn't sure what everyone was talking about as far as putting them on wrong. BUT.... I see your second picture shows hex nut imprints on back surface of the wheel. Wow.. so the 5 pins in the adapters were not doing anything in the big holes intended for adapter nuts. And the spinner wasn't threaded to it's full depth either! Awesome series of training pics. Thx

Everyone just use basic Permatex anti-seize?

 

I use it one time then so people chimed in not to use it I would think if you put them on correctly it wouldn't be a problem .A little bit

 

yep
normal size lug nuts instead of the special oversize lug nuts required for proper KO wheel install in Truman's pics.
And yes, a light application of anti-seize on the cone face of the spinner where it mates up with the cone indent in the wheel is a good thing. You will be glad it is there when it comes time to knock your spinners back off sometime in the future.

 

Haven't installed the long lug nuts yet are they safe to use .Haven't had the wheels off yet but check them all the time.