When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just ordered a new DeWitt's radiator and want to drain the block as i did not use distilled water originally. Going to use Zerex G-05 as was recommended by DeWitts to refill.
can some let me know what type of sealer I need to use on the block plugs when I reinstall them?
When I bought my 64 I went to drain the block and there were no pipe plugs!
The block was so packed with crud the PO never put them in.
And when I poked the holeds I did get a bath from both sides.
I use new 1/4 brass plugs and teflon tape to make future removale eaiser.
Joe
I bought my '63 Corvette (250hp-327) from the original owner in the fall of 1969 in the NE U.S.. Very soon I discovered that the heater didn't appear to work. It would blow plenty of air, but it was always very cool. The engine felt warm but never hot. Someone suggested checking the thermostat, so I did, only to discover that ...there was none. I installed a new 180 degree thermostat and bingo, I now have heat. Unfortunately shortly after that I realized why the original owner had removed the thermostat, as the radiator began to leak. Replaced the radiator and I was back in business.
By the spring, I had accumulated a few items to upgrade the power and decided to pull the engine to make the changes and freshen it up, it was burning a bit of oil. When I tore down the engine I discovered that the original owner was a true believer in radiator stop leak, specifically Bar's Leaks, a common solution back then to leaking cooling systems. It had the consistency of thick chocolate syrup. He had however dumped so much Bar's Leaks in the engine that the water jacket of the short block was filled solid with it from the top of the back of the block to the bottom at the front of the block with it.
Clearly the rear two cylinders and most of the next two were receiving little if any cooling from the water in the engine. This also probably explained why the rings were "cooked" and it burned a significant amount of oil, considering the car had less than 30k on it at the time.
I had never seen anything like it before, or since and have never used it in an engine of mine after seeing that. It took most of a day with brushes and a long welding rod to free that stuff from the block, before taking it to a machine shop to have it professionally cleaned.
If you haven't put the plugs back in yet, take a wire hanger and poke around in the holes with that---a screwdriver does not bend and can only clean the immediate area around the hole---a wire hanger can reach the front & back of the block. Pull the thermostat and feed water in through there to get all of the loose crap out. When you're finished, go to your local auto parts store and get 2 brass radiator petcocks. Install them with Teflon tape or any sealant of your choice and from that point on you can drain your block with no more headaches---Just open the petcocks.
I've got the brass petcocks in my big block boat engine. I like to use the paste type hydraulic sealant on these fittings. Non hardening and protects the threads.
The threaded block plugs are NPT standard tapered pipe threads. This thread system is designed to be used with a sealer. Teflon tape, Teflon pipe sealant or old fashion pipe dope will assure a leak free installation. You can get the sealant at Home Depot or local FLAPS.
I've got the brass petcocks in my big block boat engine. I like to use the paste type hydraulic sealant on these fittings. Non hardening and protects the threads.
I used those as well until...... the next time I went to do a semi annual flush.
Had to remove the starter brace 'cause I couldn't open the petcock enough to get it to drain. Not a big deal but, why make it harder so I replaced them with the standard plugs. Also I think its easier to run a wire through the jackets and they drain better as well (bigger openings).
with purchasing a new set of plugs then, using one of the aforementioned coatings.
Gary
Last edited by Gary's '66; 07-04-2016 at 10:54 PM.
Put the new radiator in this weekend. What a difference. Does not go above 180 while cruising.
When I stop and idle in my driveway the temp does creep up pretty fast but as soon as I go down the road again, it goes right back to where it should. It went from 180 to about 210 in about 3 or 4 minutes of idling after an hour drive.
Put the new radiator in this weekend. What a difference. Does not go above 180 while cruising.
When I stop and idle in my driveway the temp does creep up pretty fast but as soon as I go down the road again, it goes right back to where it should. It went from 180 to about 210 in about 3 or 4 minutes of idling after an hour drive.
I would look at your fan and fan clutch condition and temperature when the clutch "locks-up"...... and also consider installing air conditioning shroud and seals around the radiator.
That should take care of the problem.
I assumed that you have a good working vacuum advance on the distributor. If you don't, or don't know, this could also contribute to the issue.
07-02-2016, 10:31 AM
Block Plug sealant?
with purchasing a new set of plugs then, using one of the aforementioned coatings. 
