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[C2] starter issue

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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 11:10 PM
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Default starter issue

I have a starter issue I think...

67, with a 454 crate motor.
The starter works fine when the engine is cold.
But, when it is warm and I turn the key, the starter does nothing. I can hear the electric fuel pump kick in when I turn the key to on.

When I turn the key to start a few times, the starter eventually engages.

Any suggestions?
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by sbaba
I have a starter issue I think...

67, with a 454 crate motor.
The starter works fine when the engine is cold.
But, when it is warm and I turn the key, the starter does nothing. I can hear the electric fuel pump kick in when I turn the key to on.

When I turn the key to start a few times, the starter eventually engages.

Any suggestions?
It sounds like your starter solenoid is experiencing a "heat soak" condition. When it fails, check for power at the "S" terminal (purple wire) when you turn the key to the start position. If you get power there, but the starter does nothing, try replacing the solenoid. If that does not help, then you will probably need to install some kind of heat shield. Later model big blocks (68 & up) were equipped with a solenoid heat shield---I have one on my car. It is no longer available from GM, but I'm sure that someone must be reproducing it. Let us know how you make out.



RON
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 09:39 AM
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If you can't find one, make it yourself. Go to the Home Depot or similar place and buy a 1'x 1' aluminum sheet. Make a cardboard mock up first, then do the alum. I did and it's much larger then the GM small one. Dennis
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 10:33 AM
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Bad Grounding
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 01:08 AM
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Is there a chance this could be a bad battery. I charged the battery and the problem seemed to go away. But I don't understand why, when I turn the key three times, nothing happens but on the fourth time, the engine starts right up.

And thank you for the replies above.

Last edited by sbaba; Jul 28, 2016 at 01:10 AM.
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 05:10 AM
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Summit and Jegs both have heat wrap for starters very cheap.
Takes 10 minutes to install and, if you don't want it on there permanently, at least could be used temporarily to test the heat soak theory. Then if you want a fancy metal one fabricated go for it:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...32000/10002/-1

But yes, first check ALL of the high amperage connections at battery and starter for corrosion, looseness...

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jul 28, 2016 at 05:10 AM.
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by sbaba
Is there a chance this could be a bad battery. I charged the battery and the problem seemed to go away. But I don't understand why, when I turn the key three times, nothing happens but on the fourth time, the engine starts right up.

And thank you for the replies above.
I still say a bad connection ,lose or poor ground (only when it's hot) if when cold a bad connection If you can jump the starter at the starter and the engine turn over you have a bad connection some were

Last edited by 1955 copper; Jul 28, 2016 at 10:33 AM.
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 1955 copper
I still say a bad connection ,lose or poor ground (only when it's hot) if when cold a bad connection
The starter is grounded by being bolted to the motor. The only place I can see a ground being a possibility is from the negative on the battery to the engine.
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert
The starter is grounded by being bolted to the motor. The only place I can see a ground being a possibility is from the negative on the battery to the engine.
I understand what your saying , but then where is the engine grounded to the FRAME ?? engine and trans sits on rubber pads .That's the ground I'm talking about
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert
The starter is grounded by being bolted to the motor. The only place I can see a ground being a possibility is from the negative on the battery to the engine.
In actuality, on a 67, the negative battery cable is connected directly to the starter. The cable ends in a loop, and one of the starter mounting bolts goes through it, so unless the starter bolt is loose or you have a buildup of corrosion there, it is virtually impossible for the starter to have a bad ground.
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rongold
In actuality, on a 67, the negative battery cable is connected directly to the starter. The cable ends in a loop, and one of the starter mounting bolts goes through it, so unless the starter bolt is loose or you have a buildup of corrosion there, it is virtually impossible for the starter to have a bad ground.
Ron:

The factory AC cars are different, with ground lead attached to the engine bell housing on the left side.

But a correct statement for the non-AC cars.

Larry
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 04:20 PM
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If you eliminate all of the obvious problems give this a thought. High torque starters really work great. I have one on my NOM 63 with 350 crate motor and headers that would just refuse to start when warm.

I think this one is for a BB motor

https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/pwm-9200
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