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I had to buy a new accelerator pedal for the '66 because the original is cracked badly at the pivot on the bottom. I have a new correct replacement and the fibrous spacer that goes under it. Question is, why is the new pedal so stiff where it pivots or will that break in? And the old one had one spacer on one side only which I know is wrong rather than the double wide spacer which I bought. Just bolt it in or what?
Answered in order to facilitate easy reference.
Q: why is the new pedal so stiff where it pivots or will that break in?
A: The pedal is stiff because it only serves as a pivot for the linkage for the accelerator.
Q: the old one had one spacer on one side only which I know is wrong rather than the double wide spacer which I bought. Just bolt it in or what?
A: It's bolt in, but I had to use an awl to make holes in the carpet and to locate the bolts underneath. It was easier with a buddy in the car pushing awl or punch thru and I put the nuts underneath to attach it.
I had to buy a new accelerator pedal for the '66 because the original is cracked badly at the pivot on the bottom. I have a new correct replacement and the fibrous spacer that goes under it. Question is, why is the new pedal so stiff where it pivots or will that break in? And the old one had one spacer on one side only which I know is wrong rather than the double wide spacer which I bought. Just bolt it in or what?
Because most of the reproduction accelerator pedals are junk, with solid (non-hinged) reinforcements molded-in. If LICS doesn't have the good ones yet, Ernie at Willcox can fix you up with a correct-appearing pedal with proper hinge action.
It takes the fibrous spacer on both sides (it's one piece), and the two bolts go down through the pedal, through the carpet and underlayment, through the spacer, through the floor pan, and engage two weld nuts on the bracket that secures the rear of the LH inboard splash pan to the underbody. Do it right.
I realize everything you guys are saying and completely understand the mounting and it's all elementary as far as the engineering concept. When I ordered the pedal I had a choice described as a good reproduction and a correct replacement. I ordered the correct replacement and I completely understand how it mounts, but I guess I should just bolt it in and let it roll. After thinking about it, the pivot movement is actually very minimal, but damn is this thing stiff at the pivot.
I guess I should just bolt it in and let it roll. After thinking about it, the pivot movement is actually very minimal, but damn is this thing stiff at the pivot.
I went through this drill years ago, and remember clearly how there was virtually NO hinge action on the first two repro pedals I tried; there wasn't an accelerator return spring on earth strong enough to bring the pedal back to the idle position. No hinge action in the pedal will result in the throttle hanging open - not fun.
The pedal is fine, went ahead and installed it. It is a little stiff, but likes to rebound rearward to idle position. After working it back and forth for about 30 seconds it passes the test. By the way...got it from Zips
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