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[C1] Ignition lock replacement problems

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Old Dec 19, 2016 | 09:12 PM
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Default Ignition lock replacement problems

I needed to replace my ignition lock assy on my 1960. I have tried 3 brands, Standard, Locksmart, and don't remember the other. They look exactly the same as original, except for the chrome face cap (finger grabber thingy) which will not fit inside the nut that holds it all together. It's such a tight fit that you cannot turn the key. The nut and spacer, and ignition switch assy appear to be original. Short of removing the chrome face cap, or trying some filing, does anyone have any experience with this replacement that would shed some light on the problem? The old lock had the chrome piece missing and this may be why. If I hold the lock nut in my hand and try to insert the tumbler/lock ***'y into it, I have to force it in and then of course it won't turn. Any help from the C1 group?

Last edited by 65GGvert; Dec 19, 2016 at 10:42 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2016 | 11:35 PM
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For clarification, this cylinder with chrome face:





Won't slide inside the edge of this nut:





So that it fits like this:


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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 12:13 AM
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Why can you sand off some of the key part...the ring/nut will hide it...
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 06:42 AM
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The chrome platting probably enlarged the circumference of the thing and now its simply too fat to engage properly into the bezel.

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Dec 20, 2016 at 06:42 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 66jack
Why can you sand off some of the key part...the ring/nut will hide it...
I've been filing on it but it's just a snap on cover, it's not really chrome.
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
The chrome platting probably enlarged the circumference of the thing and now its simply too fat to engage properly into the bezel.
It would definitely work without the "chrome", but then the face of the keyhole is exposed and ugly. I also like the ability to grip the piece instead of just the key itself. It should work, it has on thousands of others, I'm sure. They all say exact replacement, but the head of the cylinder that the "chrome" piece fits over is slightly larger on all three I tried.
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 07:46 AM
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So its not the general circumference that is too tight ?
Its the points where the finger tab meets the circumference ?
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 07:50 AM
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I dunno....I replaced ALL of the locks in my '63 which is basically the same setup and it worked flawlessly....
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 08:37 AM
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You are aware that the nut won't slip over the lock if the lock is inserted first in the ignition switch, aren't you? The switch (without the lock) is first installed from the rear, then the nut is tightened. Then the lock is installed from the front.
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 08:49 AM
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When installed in the dash...you can't unscrew the bezel without the lock cylinder removed.... That doesn't explain why the tumbler with the finger tab shouldn't turn easily within the bezel outside of the dash IMO...
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
When installed in the dash...you can't unscrew the bezel without the lock cylinder removed.... That doesn't explain why the tumbler with the finger tab shouldn't turn easily within the bezel outside of the dash IMO...
Good point.
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
So its not the general circumference that is too tight ?
Its the points where the finger tab meets the circumference ?
It is the entire circumference of the Chrome piece that is part of the finger tab. Rubs inside the nut
all the way around. I tried an Echlin brand today, same result. I've already started filing on it and it's getting better, I'll keep going until it's free.
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 02:30 PM
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OK, success. I took the first cheap Autozone ($10) cylinder to the grinder wheel and hit the chrome all the way around, then the wire brush wheel all the way around a few times. Snapped right in and turns freely. Thanks for the comments.


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