58n65

Guys,

I'm rebuilding my Clutch Cross Shaft and I was wondering what type of grease is used in the shaft?

I finally took it apart and the frame stud and retainer ring looks fine, so I'm not replacing them. I am going to replace the engine stud and nylon ball seats.

One gripe I have is the guy I bought it from put everything in buckets and didn't label anything. As a matter of a fact, he left the buckets outside and most of the bolts and parts have rusted. What a pain!!!

Thanks,
58n65

Nowhere Man

Chassis grease of any color will work

Procrastination Racing

Grease. Like Nowhere said, any color. You are never moving it fast enough to be an issue.


All of what in buckets? There are only a few pieces to the cross shaft.

58n65

Sorry, I meant bolts, nuts, etc. from different areas of the car. Found the engine stud, shims, pins, exhaust clamps, etc. all piled in one bucket. He must have left it outside and it got rained on. Just a pet-peeve of mine to not take care of things!!!

Thanks guys for the grease help....just wanted to be sure.

58n65

Easy Rhino

Sounds like a great rationalization to get a sand blasting cabinet.

58n65

HMMMM, I like the positive thinking!!!!

Steve59

on my 59 I had a zerk fitting installed on the shaft so that I can grease it. What I DIDN'T do, is some guys put a channeled wooden dowel in there to take up the space, otherwise you will have to put a LOT of grease in the shaft. I'll do that the next time.

Easy Rhino

Okay, to complete the thought: A blasting cabinet should be able to save you the costs of replacing lots of little fiddly bits, since you would be able to clean them up instead of ordering new ones, plus they would have a better chance of being originals, if that matters to you.

Secondly, having a blasting cabinet would save hours of tedious hand cleaning of old grungy parts, which would free you up to work on more important stuff.

There it is.

SWCDuke

A full synthetic NGLI #2 like Mobil 1 is good for just about everything - wheel bearings, u-joints, steering gear, and all chassis lube points including the clutch cross shaft. The only other grease you need is white lithium for door and hood latches.

Duke

58n65

I noticed that it took a lot of grease but wasn't sure why they built it that way. The wooden dowel is a good idea.

Thanks,
58n65

58n65

Very true!!! Just don't know why someone would throw everything into a couple buckets and then not keep them out of the weather.

58n65

Thanks Duke!!! I need to check the grease on all my installed parts....new and original.

Thanks,
58n65

Avispa

Oh, hell no!!!! I don't put that stuff on ANYTHING exposed to the air, at least here in the salt-laden sauna air of the Texas gulf coast. Lithium grease in these conditions eventually hardens into a brick like substance that will gum up whatever it touches. I've emptied several cans of WD40 in my doors to loosen the gunk formed when the white lithium grease my paint and body man put in (per the AIM, no less) the door latches, hood prop, etc. There were times I couldn't open the doors or operate the door locks. My hood prop still doesn't work consistently. Depending on where you live, you, too may have a similar experience. Use the full synthetic or brake caliper grease for exposed parts. Yeah, I know I should just take the affected parts out and wash them in solvent. The thought of disassembling the doors leaves me cold.

Did I mention he put that damned gunk in my distributor, too? I wondered why I was having so much trouble with ignition timing until I figured out the breaker cam was "glued" to the distributor shaft with dried lithium grease.

vmaxpwc

I have a five gallon pail of Evap po rust in my workshop. 48 hous in that stuff and all the small rusted scrapy stuff comes out like new. A combination of a bead blaster and evap po rust make life a lot easier during a restoration.