When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Fed up with the original holley carb. on my 67 300hp auto. Very limited driving and the car might set for 1 to 2 years. Also the heat build up and bowl leakage is more than I want to put up with. Other than edelbrock what other company makes a replacement carb for my car?
Thanks
Nevadajim
Fed up with the original holley carb. on my 67 300hp auto. Very limited driving and the car might set for 1 to 2 years. Also the heat build up and bowl leakage is more than I want to put up with. Other than edelbrock what other company makes a replacement carb for my car?
Thanks
Nevadajim
I went with a Quickfuel street series 780 for the 427. A company out in the mid west will sell you your application and also customize it for your heads, cam, intake, compression ratio, transmission and gearing for the same price. All set up for ethanol based fuel. It comes with a build sheet and you just bolt it on and go. I barely had to tweak the idle speed and A/F mixture. I believe I paid $437.00 for it and I'm very happy with it.
I found out on here that QuickFuel sold out to Holley and customer service went in the toilet... The forum member that shared this went to Richmond, Va. and bought a different variant:
[QUOTE=nevadajim;1593755081]Fed up with the original holley carb. on my 67 300hp auto. Very limited driving and the car might set for 1 to 2 years. Also the heat build up and bowl leakage is more than I want to put up with. Other than edelbrock what other company makes a replacement carb for my car?
Thanks
Nevadajim[/QUOTE]
How "original" is your original carb??? Have you ever had it professionally rebuilt? I had mine professionally rebuilt last winter by the only guy that JohnZ recommends - and it has run great since I installed it back on my car. Send it to http://vintagemusclecarparts.com/:
I found out on here that QuickFuel sold out to Holley and customer service went in the toilet... The forum member that shared this went to Richmond, Va. and bought a different variant:
That's why I bought from RPM Performance. These guys know what they are doing and a Quickfuel carburetor is what I consider to be a modern, updated technology Holley. 4 corner A/F adjustment, screw adjustable secondary adjustment, single wire electric choke and impressive throttle response. RPM will stand behind anything they sell...no need to deal with QF
Fed up with the original holley carb. on my 67 300hp auto. Very limited driving and the car might set for 1 to 2 years. Also the heat build up and bowl leakage is more than I want to put up with. Other than edelbrock what other company makes a replacement carb for my car?
Thanks
Nevadajim
Some of the issues you mention (such as leaks) can be fixed by having the carb rebuilt by a reputable rebuilder. Another thing that is helpful with the '67 327/300 is to block off the "hot slot" under the primary side, as shown in the attached photo. The plugs in the photo are threaded pipe plugs, but other people have used simple drive-in plugs that resemble freeze plugs. The idea is to reduce the heating under the carb primary.
For about the same cost as a professional rebuild, you can simply buy a brand new Holley. Options include a reproduction of the 3310(?) that came on the '67, or a newer Street Avenger carb. If you decide to buy a new carb, keep in mind that the Street Avenger will have a different fuel inlet and an electric choke. So, some minor adaptation will be required.
If you decide to buy a replacement carb, I suggest sticking with something close to the 585 CFM of the original carb. A big carb such as a 780 would likely degrade the throttle response.
Lastly, if you only drive the car every 1-2 years, you need to be concerned with the gas going bad. Adding a fuel stabilizer might be a good idea if the car is going to sit that long.
The original Holley can be repaired to work very well, the function of the carburetor internals is the same as a modern day carburetor, but I agree that they can be very frustrating when the surfaces are not sealing tight. I hate to see you give up on it but when compared to the cost of a new better made carburetor I can't argue the point.
The Holley main body and metering blocks are made from cheap metal IMO. The new carburetors have aluminum main bodies and metering blocks that seal better plus threaded air bleeds and jets for tuning. Once a experienced carburetor shop knows the specs for a engine the carburetor can be set up to run very well right out of the box just like the original carbs ran when new.
[QUOTE=nevadajim;1593755081]Fed up with the original holley carb. on my 67 300hp auto. Very limited driving and the car might set for 1 to 2 years. Also the heat build up and bowl leakage is more than I want to put up with. Other than edelbrock what other company makes a replacement carb for my car?
Thanks
Nevadajim
How "original" is your original carb??? Have you ever had it professionally rebuilt? I had mine professionally rebuilt last winter by the only guy that JohnZ recommends - and it has run great since I installed it back on my car. Send it to http://vintagemusclecarparts.com/:
Tom[/QUOTE]
It is the original carb - have owned the Vette since 1978 and have replaced bowl and metering gaskets many times over the years.
Some of the issues you mention (such as leaks) can be fixed by having the carb rebuilt by a reputable rebuilder. Another thing that is helpful with the '67 327/300 is to block off the "hot slot" under the primary side, as shown in the attached photo. The plugs in the photo are threaded pipe plugs, but other people have used simple drive-in plugs that resemble freeze plugs. The idea is to reduce the heating under the carb primary.
For about the same cost as a professional rebuild, you can simply buy a brand new Holley. Options include a reproduction of the 3310(?) that came on the '67, or a newer Street Avenger carb. If you decide to buy a new carb, keep in mind that the Street Avenger will have a different fuel inlet and an electric choke. So, some minor adaptation will be required.
If you decide to buy a replacement carb, I suggest sticking with something close to the 585 CFM of the original carb. A big carb such as a 780 would likely degrade the throttle response.
Lastly, if you only drive the car every 1-2 years, you need to be concerned with the gas going bad. Adding a fuel stabilizer might be a good idea if the car is going to sit that long.
Thanks I will try the blocking off the hot slot when the weather gets nicer. Heat soak when you shut off a hot engine and boil fuel is not good. Thanks
Last edited by nevadajim; Dec 30, 2016 at 11:36 AM.
when you replaced the metering block and bowl gaskets, did you use the blue colored gaskets?
after a few uses after replacing the gaskets, do you recheck the bowl screws to make sure they are not loose from gasket compression?
Thanks I will try the blocking off the hot slot when the weather gets nicer. Heat soak when you shut off a hot engine and boil fuel is not good. Thanks
On my '67 327/300, I too had fuel boiling in the primary when I shut the engine down hot. The two things I did to improve the situation were to block off the hot slot and to replace the heat riser valve with the spacer used for fuel injected cars. Together these two changes seemed to help a lot.
I think the problem with fuel boiling is because modern fuels have a lower boiling point than the gas we had in the 1960s. It's just something we have to deal with.
BTW, if you decide to block the hot slot, check the archives for some postings from John Hinckley with photos and a description of the plugs he used. I used threaded pipe plus because the intake was off the car and I could clean out the metal chips from threading the holes. John used a press-in plug that might be better if the intake remains on the car.
when you replaced the metering block and bowl gaskets, did you use the blue colored gaskets?
after a few uses after replacing the gaskets, do you recheck the bowl screws to make sure they are not loose from gasket compression?
This carb shows to be for a manual trans - my car is a automatic power glide. What would be the difference ? Just the kick down linkage?
The same carb is used for both manual and Powerglide. The throttle lever provisions are all there for the kick-down linkage, but they are not used on manual transmission cars.
Fed up with the original holley carb. on my 67 300hp auto. Very limited driving and the car might set for 1 to 2 years. Also the heat build up and bowl leakage is more than I want to put up with. Other than edelbrock what other company makes a replacement carb for my car?
Thanks
Nevadajim
I have the same car as yours and I decided to change out the original, date coded Holley as it continued to develop minor leaks, and I was constantly adjusting idle mixture to improve idle quality. I decided to replace it with a Holley 83570 Street Avenger carb. I blocked the heat slot holes in the intake manifold, and also added a Holley 108-70 heat shield under the carburetor. This car sits for long periods of time, but we drive it on long road trips each year. Last fall was 4900 miles at altitudes from sea level to over 9000 feet, with no need to adjust idle mixture during the entire trip. The car ran flawlessly for the entire trip. While it is sitting, I fill the tank with avgas 101 low lead fuel which will not gum up the carb. In the 25000 miles we've driven since I installed that carb, I have only needed to tighten mounting screws (all of them) once. Hope that helps your decision!
I have the same car as yours and I decided to change out the original, date coded Holley as it continued to develop minor leaks, and I was constantly adjusting idle mixture to improve idle quality. I decided to replace it with a Holley 83570 Street Avenger carb. I blocked the heat slot holes in the intake manifold, and also added a Holley 108-70 heat shield under the carburetor. This car sits for long periods of time, but we drive it on long road trips each year. Last fall was 4900 miles at altitudes from sea level to over 9000 feet, with no need to adjust idle mixture during the entire trip. The car ran flawlessly for the entire trip. While it is sitting, I fill the tank with avgas 101 low lead fuel which will not gum up the carb. In the 25000 miles we've driven since I installed that carb, I have only needed to tighten mounting screws (all of them) once. Hope that helps your decision!
Bob
Thanks Bob
Good info.
My car is also sunfire yellow.
Jim