Is there somewhere that shows how to test the 63 headlight switch? My instrument panel lights are not working and thinking the switch may be bad. Is there any other test that I can do?

 

I assume you DO know you have to rotate the headlight **** CCW to bring up the brightness on the dash lights - they may just be turned all the way down...

 

Did that. I have the switch pulled out to bench test. I checked the fuse with the switch on and I am not getting any power at the fuse. Is there a way I can just jump the plug to see if I can power the lights up? Everything else works. Parking head and tail lights. As well as the courtesy lights

 

You can jump from the brown to the dk green wire at the switch connector with the switch in the circuit to bypass the dimmer rheostat. The same two points, and easier to get to, would be to jump between the right side of the tail lamp fuse to the right side of the instr fuse. If the lights come on, move the jumper to the left side of the instr fuse to verify that you truly do have a good fuse and good fuse holder connection on the instr fuse. Sometimes the holder will corrode and the fuse read good, but no connection.
Basically, if you connect between the right side of the tail lamp fuse, and the left side of the instr fuse, you have bypassed the dimmer rheostat in the switch and the dark green wire going to it. The most likely cause is the rheostat getting corroded internally or open resistor wire inside. If you bypass that rheostat, the dash lights should come on with the tail lamps and be on full brightness all the time the switch is on.
If you connect an ohmeter across the connections on the switch (out of the circuit) where the brown wire and the dark green wire connect to the switch, you can read the resistance across the rheostat. It should vary by rotating the ****. If it reads open, then it's your problem. Shorting between those two points will give you dash lights if that's where the problem was.

 

Thanks I will try to get out there tonight. I check for resistance across the switch and it was reading. But very speratic. The switch is a cheap one from Mexico. The switch is out right now but I can do the fuse jump from another power source to see if the lights work

 

The repro switches can be pure crap...even if you get the dash lights going they often keep tripping the internal thermal breaker and 'strobe' the headlights as a 'false positive' for over-current condition.

A nice article in the NCRS Restorer this month on this very topic...

 

I checked under the dash real quick this morning and they light up by jumping the fuse block. Will jump the other side tonight and jump the switch and see what happens. Anybody know a good place to get a decent switch?

 

I try to stay with Long Island Corvettes for parts that I know are critical or require maximum correctness....

 

Wow what a great catalog. Will be printing that out today

 

I believe 63s use the same HL switch as 62s. ( Delco 5096) Used ones are usually available on Ebay for about $40.

 

63s use the one-year-only "095" switch as original equipment (Delco # D-1517); they are distinctive due to the "fan-like" appearance around the switch shaft in front of the dimmer rheostat...a dead giveaway of an original.

They are hard to find and, if used, can be dicey. A Long Island repro is about as good as it gets...

Originals go for $200 and up if the seller knows what he has...I got mine for $90 from a seller that didn't.

You can see the 'serrated fan wafer' in the front in the third pic (a bit fuzzy) for this piece:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Delco-remy-NOS-63-Corvette-headlight-switch-D-1517-/282341637543?hash=item41bcdf7da7

 

Is there a rebuilder for these one year only headlight switches? If Chrismoore has the "095" this could be an option. Keeping these 63's close to original can be addictive and a tough habit to kick.
Brgds,
Rene

 

I know a couple of folks have 'teased' an original headlight switch open and effected repairs (maybe rich5962 perhaps)....they aren't complicated devices but opening them without damage is probably the tricky part...

As to staying original, its getting tougher and tougher; I've watched some rare part's prices climb in just the three years I've owned a '63. Doubled or more in some cases...

 

Dads 63 is far from original, so I am just looking for something that works

Thanks

 

Get the Long Island part - if the headlights begin to strobe (flash on and off; a problem with repro switches) put headlight relays in and take the load off the switch and drive on...about $70 in parts and a couple of hours work; problem solved -- permanently...

 

Was the fuse housing. I checked the voltage on both sides and it worked mutiple times. Maybe it was just the way I was connecting to the fuse and block. Works now. Thanks