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66 trailing arm shims

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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:26 PM
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Default 66 trailing arm shims

I'm replacing the trailing arms with rebuilds. The shim kit I purchased has two large long cotter pins. The holes in the shims are way to big for the cotter pin. Can someone tell me what the cotter pin for?

As always, advanced thank you for your help.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by original76
I'm replacing the trailing arms with rebuilds. The shim kit I purchased has two large long cotter pins. The holes in the shims are way to big for the cotter pin. Can someone tell me what the cotter pin for?

As always, advanced thank you for your help.
The cotter pin is to hold the shims in place.

the originals were not slotted, the trailing arm bolt held them in place.

You would need to drill a small hole in the frame for the cotter pin and slide it in, thought the shims.

others can correct me if I am wrong.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 01:39 PM
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It sounds like the kit you have has the large hole for the main bolt that secures the shims to the arm. The best kit to have is the one with slots for the arm and a small hole that is used to secure the shims. You must drill an appropriate hole through the inner lip of the body so it aligns to the end of the shim hole. If you use the kit you currently have, it requires that the main bolt be removed if any alignment changes are necessary. And that add $$ to you bill. Dennis
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 06:27 PM
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If you're restoring the car for NCRS you must use the original type of shims with no cotter pin so what you do is you take A saw and you cut a notch in the bottom of the shim at the bolt side and you hook the shim over the bolt so that they can't fall out and no one will know there's a notch on that end and you get full credit and easy to align.

Last edited by 65 Pro Vette; Jan 30, 2017 at 06:28 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 07:36 PM
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If the shims have a slot in one end and a hole in the other they are suitable for use on a Midyear but not correct. They are correct for C3s. Just loosen the trailing arm pivot bolt and slide the slotted end of the shim in around the bolt. Then rotate the hole end down into the t-arm pocket. Tighten the bolt. Make sure the shims are really tight the pocket with no slop. I usually leave a thick shim out to install last. I drive it in with a hammer in the middle of the shim pack.

Correct
http://www.zip-corvette.com/63-69-tr...t-correct.html

Easier to use.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/63-82-tr...stainless.html

Tom
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 07:51 PM
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From VanSteel.

T-Arm Pocket.pdf

Tom
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 08:01 PM
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What are your plans for the car?

NCRS judging? Bloomington Gold judging?

Depending on what your long range plans are...you can choose the shim that's best for you.

Originals had 2 holes... and the trailing arm bolt went through one of those holes. More difficult to align, but factory "correct".

Then you can use slotted shims or shims with a notch cut on the bottom to slip over the T arm bolt..

You can use the later C3 shims that require you to drill a hole through the frame to retain the shims.........

Maybe more variations...

Post a picture of what you have.
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 06:40 AM
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Good read. Has pictures of the original "2 hole" shims, and pictures of an original 2 hole shim modified with a notch cut out.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...arm-shims.html
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