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I'm replacing the trailing arms with rebuilds. The shim kit I purchased has two large long cotter pins. The holes in the shims are way to big for the cotter pin. Can someone tell me what the cotter pin for?
I'm replacing the trailing arms with rebuilds. The shim kit I purchased has two large long cotter pins. The holes in the shims are way to big for the cotter pin. Can someone tell me what the cotter pin for?
As always, advanced thank you for your help.
The cotter pin is to hold the shims in place.
the originals were not slotted, the trailing arm bolt held them in place.
You would need to drill a small hole in the frame for the cotter pin and slide it in, thought the shims.
It sounds like the kit you have has the large hole for the main bolt that secures the shims to the arm. The best kit to have is the one with slots for the arm and a small hole that is used to secure the shims. You must drill an appropriate hole through the inner lip of the body so it aligns to the end of the shim hole. If you use the kit you currently have, it requires that the main bolt be removed if any alignment changes are necessary. And that add $$ to you bill. Dennis
If you're restoring the car for NCRS you must use the original type of shims with no cotter pin so what you do is you take A saw and you cut a notch in the bottom of the shim at the bolt side and you hook the shim over the bolt so that they can't fall out and no one will know there's a notch on that end and you get full credit and easy to align.
Last edited by 65 Pro Vette; Jan 30, 2017 at 06:28 PM.
If the shims have a slot in one end and a hole in the other they are suitable for use on a Midyear but not correct. They are correct for C3s. Just loosen the trailing arm pivot bolt and slide the slotted end of the shim in around the bolt. Then rotate the hole end down into the t-arm pocket. Tighten the bolt. Make sure the shims are really tight the pocket with no slop. I usually leave a thick shim out to install last. I drive it in with a hammer in the middle of the shim pack.
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