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C1 heater replacement proceedure

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Old 02-01-2017, 03:53 PM   #1
rtcsr3580
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Default C1 heater replacement proceedure



I am amazed with all the help you guys have given me ... my nextproject is to replace the heater core ... i am only getting a very few drops onthe outside of the car when i park it right under where the core is ... usually the heater core leaks inside thecar ... anyway unless anyone has any ideas of what could be causing the slightdrip i will replace the core because i dont want to run into a major leakinside the car ... does anyone have any suggestions on what exactly i will orshould replace while doing the core? .. should i replace the valve or can itjust be cleaned up? ... what other parts are necessary for the job as i want toorder whatever i will need asap .. also any suggestions on where to get goodquality parts for this job? ... thanks again for all the help

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Old 02-01-2017, 03:59 PM   #2
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Change the hose(s) first.
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Old 02-01-2017, 04:11 PM   #3
Frankie the Fink
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OK - lots of info on here if you search:

1) You can get shutoff valves 3/4" and 5/8" inch respectively and splice them into the heater hoses in the engine bay under the fenders and that will stop your leak if and until you're ready to deal with the heater. I have the part numbers if you choose to do that.
2) Many folks mistakenly replace the copper elbow under the dash with a plumbing store fixture that is guaranteed to leak - you need the RIGHT elbow from Paragon -- so check that first. (Bottom center item in the parts picture). It HAS to have the flanges on it!
3) If your heater has the original silver capillary tube - carefully remove it and keep it...the repro heater control valves don't use it (its unnecessary) but many chose to keep it and reroute it in a faked manner for originality. I kept mine.
4) Make sure your hose clamps under the dash are tight and correct, they should be Corbin clamps - if you mess with them get yourself a set of swivel head Corbin clamp pliers - it'll save you a lot of cussin'
5) Do NOT twist and force any hose connections on to their nipples, they break loose easily. A little slathering of silicone inside the hose ends and some patience will help you slide them on;
6) Read the attached article by Dave Z.

This should be enough to get you going
Attached Images
    
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File Type: pdf HeaterResto1960.pdf (1.50 MB, 66 views)

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 02-01-2017 at 04:40 PM.
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Old 02-01-2017, 05:07 PM   #4
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Frank,

Wouldn't a single cut-off valve (on the TO core line) accomplish the goal?
Why would you need to block the FROM core line?
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Old 02-01-2017, 05:10 PM   #5
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That would prob work....I'm just a belt and suspenders kind of guy...
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Old 02-02-2017, 06:10 AM   #6
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Please take Franks advice on the elbow. I originally used a plumbing elbow on mine after a frame off restoration. My wife had joined me on a few rides before this incident: While returning from a Sunday morning Cars and Coffee event I pulled into my drive way and the pressure from the cooling system forced the heater hose off of the plumbing elbow pouring scalding hot water all over the passenger compartment carpet. Had my wife been in the car the burns to her legs would have been severe.

Some vendors actually supply the plumbing elbow when you order this part. If they do return it and be sure to get the correct one with the lip on both ends. I also removed the corbin clamps and used worms screw clamps.
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Old 02-02-2017, 06:15 AM   #7
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Great advice
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Old 02-02-2017, 09:27 PM   #8
chris ritchie
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The heater core and the hose connections to it are completely inside the car. If coolant is leaking onto the ground, then any leak isn't from the heater core.
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Old 02-03-2017, 06:11 AM   #9
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thank you . although i am new to C1 the drip right under the car at the heater box area confused me .. i will look into it further
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:45 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink View Post
That would prob work....I'm just a belt and suspenders kind of guy...
There may be pressure on both sides, obviously more on the discharge side of pump. The system has up to ~13 psi.
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Old 02-03-2017, 07:51 AM   #11
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You'll get off lucky if its just the hoses, but yes...the heater core is contained completely inside the cockpit... If you change the hoses the above advice about clamps, pliers and elbows still applies...as they terminate inside the cockpit as well.
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toms silver 60 View Post
There may be pressure on both sides, obviously more on the discharge side of pump. The system has up to ~13 psi.
On 2nd thought - I think you're right. Since the entire system is under pressure, any leaks in the core would continue to leak...

Good thinking Frankie!

(I'm in the middle of this job right now)

PS: To the OP: The connection on the RETURN line from the core is actually INSIDE the firewall.. but the SEND (to core) line connection is just OUTSIDE the firewall.

Last edited by SDVette; 02-09-2017 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 02-09-2017, 04:00 PM   #13
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The shut off valve is a great idea. If and when the 50 year old heater core on my 67 gives up I'm not sure I'll tear the dash apart to replace it. I never use the heater since I don't drive the car in the winter.
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Old 02-09-2017, 05:36 PM   #14
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Moving along nicely... every wonder what 50 year old dead bugs look like? :-)



Note the INCORRECT plumbing fitting... Bubba alert! But when Bubba was dad, you can't complain!

I was hoping to re-use my defroster box... but now that I see it up close... maybe not!



Last edited by SDVette; 02-09-2017 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 02-16-2017, 05:28 PM   #15
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I'm moving along on this project. Just one correction to the PDF posted above that I encountered...

The gasket is shown in the wrong place on the photo where all the parts are in order.

The gasket should go between the heater box and the temp valve bracket... not between the blower housing and the bracket, as implied by the photo.

Seems minor -- until you realize that the entire unit is grounded via the temp control cable jacket. With that gasket in that position, it blocks the ground from getting to the motor. After careful examination, the gasket is needed in the other location as there are small offsets around the bolt holes.. without the gasket in this position, cold air can get pulled into the fan.



How about you OP? Have you solved your problem?

Fred

Last edited by SDVette; 02-16-2017 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 02-16-2017, 05:40 PM   #16
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Don't forget to have your new heater core and temp control valve tested at a radiator shop. Imaging going through all that work and then finding out you had a manufacturing flaw that caused another leak.

I learned this trick from JohnZ.

And yes, I had a bad soldering joint on my temp control valve. Thank you John.
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Old 02-16-2017, 06:02 PM   #17
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Yes - I had the assembly pressure tested at a local shop...
Thank you JohnZ!

I've got the core installed - just waiting on some part to arrive to finish the project. Control cables and switch..
One 'issue' I see is that the temp control cable 'snaps back' when I pull it out...????? Any idea what creates the resistance to hold in in place?

Last edited by SDVette; 02-16-2017 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 02-21-2017, 06:38 PM   #18
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I don't recall what created a resistance for the cable.
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