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Okay, almost got everything installed, just gotta hook up the heater hoses. But ran across something in the instructions I don't like. It said to drill a 5/8" hole in the "firewall" for the evaporator drain. Except it doesn't end up in the fire wall, but high up on the floorboard. It means punching a hole in the carpet (new) and I won't be able to use my new floor mat. Anybody seen this? Is there a better way?
I tried to avoid what you are facing and made the hole for the drain above where the top of a floor mat would be; BIG mistake as it is about the same level as the bottom of the evaporator and therefore some water always stays in the line... turn the heat on and it fogs the windows until the water goes away (turning the a/c and the heat on at the same time will defog the windows...)
maybe you can angle it over towards the side of the transmission hump....
I tried to avoid what you are facing and made the hole for the drain above where the top of a floor mat would be; BIG mistake as it is about the same level as the bottom of the evaporator and therefore some water always stays in the line... turn the heat on and it fogs the windows until the water goes away (turning the a/c and the heat on at the same time will defog the windows...)
maybe you can angle it over towards the side of the transmission hump....
Bill
That's an idea, wonder what others have done. Couldn't call VA cause their tech people don't work weekends, but will first thing tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestion.
Talked to VA, drain has got to go in so, no option. I got everything installed and took it for a leak test drive awhile ago. Compressor isn't hooked up yet, waiting till I get it charged. But I have no heat. Messed with the controls, rechecked everything, don't see anything wrong. Both heater hoses are hot. Any ideas?
Talked to VA, drain has got to go in so, no option. I got everything installed and took it for a leak test drive awhile ago. Compressor isn't hooked up yet, waiting till I get it charged. But I have no heat. Messed with the controls, rechecked everything, don't see anything wrong. Both heater hoses are hot. Any ideas?
Found the issue, no problems. Turned the **** to cold and got tons of heat, just a matter of re-programming. However, the ***** aren't marked cold & hot so it doesn't matter, going to leave it that way. If it gets cold like it gets hot, I'll be happy!
Now on to getting the system charged.
I took mine to my son-in-laws shop today to figure out why the compressor cycles so often. Not the greatest day to work on ac as its only about 60. They hooked their machine up and said everything is working like it should. And when you rev it it would stay engaged longer but still not right. They vacuumed it down and redid the charge. It still short cycled. I reached up on the bottom of the inside unit and pulled the capillary tube out about 1/2". The tech said I don't know what you just did but the low side is staying consistent and the clutch isn't cycling. The low side line was also freezing up at the compressor before I did this. Last year when it was doing this I assumed it was low on freon and added a can myself. When I pulled the cap tube out immediately the low side thawed. I'm gonna say all is fixed now. Just had to get a few minor bugs worked out. On my GTO I bought all of the factory air outlets and controls so it looks like it has factory air inside. When I put it on my C1 I'll have quite a bit of fabbing for controls and ducts. Lots of great ideas here on some of the C2 restomods.
Glad you figured it out, that's cool. There is one thing I kinda wish I had done. Even though the original wipers work okay, with all that ducting squeezed under there, it's hard to keep them away from the cables, and forget about going back under there!
So anyone planning on this, do ALL your underdash work beforehand, radio, speakers, wipers, etc. I don't ever plan to drive in the rain anyway so it's not much of a concern with me.
Somehow I'm going to put my wiper motor under the dash along with th VA. Dont know what alls going to be involved there. I've read and will reread Mike Colettas thread about doing it. Might get a little tight.
Somehow I'm going to put my wiper motor under the dash along with th VA. Dont know what alls going to be involved there. I've read and will reread Mike Colettas thread about doing it. Might get a little tight.
It's gotta be tight, I can't imagine putting one more thing under that dash, and if I did manage that, it would have to last forever!
Finally got my air conditioner project completed, and I installed the drain hole a little above where I had it before. I'm satisfied. Everything fit pretty well, no complaints with Vintage Air. This took a lot longer because I first had to change out the water pump from long neck to short so all the brackets would work, move the alternator, find the right pulleys, etc. Took about a month.
Thanks to all for the helpful advice, especially to WMF62 (Bill) for sticking with me. Now to get the system charged and see if I have an overheating problem again.
Yeah, that's a real good idea, yours look great! I didn't think paint would stick to that vinyl. How did you prep it?
as you are aware, the plastic has a pebble grain finish. I didn't like that and didn't want the black color, so I used a high build urethane based primer surfacer and put enough coats on that I was able to sand it smooth and make the pebbles disappear; then topcoated it with the red.
I've almost completed my C1 Restomod - except for the AC. It's been waiting patiently in the box for two years.... Went with Classic Air because I didn't want to cut the brace in the passenger kick panel.
Anyway - I wanted to add something on the wipers - mine were shot when I got the project (towers locked up, motor no turn, no sign of cables) - so
I installed a cable drive system with new towers. The motor is mounted in
The passenger kick panel area, so I'm hoping the AC will be a little easier.
The wife would really like to ride with the Hard top on - so I understand that Air Conditioning is a requirement. I'm also not crazy about loosing the Cross braces, but will have to see. The instructions don't indicate that they have to be removed.
looks good...
