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Looking for some advice or suggestions. My new rally style wheels bind on my new aluminum Wilwood calipers. They bind tight. I fabricated a 1/16" steel shim and reinstalled the wheels and they just slightly rub the calipers but will spin. The question:
1) would you install a 3/32" shim to fully clear or
2) would you install a 1/16" shim and slightly grind down the contact points on the calipers (about the size of the "o" that I am typing here in two places on the caliper) or
3) would you install no shims and grin the calipers a little more than 1/16" at the contact points to clear.
What rally's are you using, and what Wilwoods? The Wilwood replacement Corvette D8-4 calipers, are dimensionally similar to the stock calipers, and usually clear Corvette rally's.
i would install a spacer, not sure what your shims are made of and whether they will compress over time.
The shim that I made is steel, but I do not believe that I want to fabricate three more out of steel! I was thinking I would make 4 from aluminum (like most of the pre-manufactured shims) using the steel as a pattern. I could not find pre-manufactured shims that thin.
What rally's are you using, and what Wilwoods? The Wilwood replacement Corvette D8-4 calipers, are dimensionally similar to the stock calipers, and usually clear Corvette rally's.
The rally's are Wheel Vintiques Series 30 Corvette Style Rallye Silver, 15" diameter, 5x4.75" bolt.
The calipers are Wilwood D8-4.
The point of interference is quite small with the 1/16" thick shim.
Last edited by jfr's 63swc; Feb 19, 2017 at 05:53 PM.
I once bought a set of rally's that did that on stock/original calipers. The welds on wheel were build up high an a few areas , on all four wheels . I sanded the weld high points
Jon, I bought a set of the Wilwood calipers and a front disc brake conversion from Vansteel when these calipers first became available. I just had to have them, even if I didn't need them.
I installed the kit and my original '67 rally wheels and had zero clearance issues with them.
Since my intent was to use reproduction knock-off's when the restoration was done, as soon as I purchased the wheels, I mounted them to see how they looked and fit. I immediately encountered a clearance issue like you have. Since the interference was pretty minor, I decided to carefully clearance the calipers by filing away some of the aluminum from the calipers until they cleared the wheels. The calipers are pretty robust in the area of interference and it didn't require the removal of much material. (I also cleaned up the inside of the aluminum knock off wheels with 80 grit paper for some additional clearance.)
I then contacted Vansteel to see if they had any suggestions on restoring the finish of the calipers. They contacted Wilwood and arranged for me to ship my clearanced calipers back and Wilwood re-powder coated them. They now look just as they did out of the box. Vansteel ansd Wilwood have both been terrific folks to work with over the years.
I once bought a set of rally's that did that on stock/original calipers. The welds on wheel were build up high an a few areas , on all four wheels . I sanded the weld high points
Roger,
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, the contact point on the wheel is not at a weld but at a small lip on the back of the rim. It is power coated, so I think I will try to remove at least the powder coating and see if that clears.
Thanks for the response. I am going to remove the power coating on the rim and if that is not enough, I will do as you did and take a little material off of the caliper. I am not really concerned with the appearance but I do not want rust/corrosion issues on either the wheel or the caliper so I will try to get a thin protective finish on both if I resolve the clearance issue.
Jon, I have just experienced the same issues that you have. I have 2 Wheel
Vintiques 15x7 rallys with 4.25 backspacing and 2 with 4.50 backspacing. When I installed the Wilwood calipers, the rotors were not centered in the caliper. They were noticeably toward the inside of the caliper. I had a friend water jet 4 spacers ranging from .085 to .115 in thickness. I used a .095 on the LF and .115 on the RF between the rotor and the hub to center the rotors. On the rear I used .100 thick washers sandwiched between the caliper mounting flange and the caliper mounting bracket to center the rear rotors. My wheels (4.25 BS) cleared the calipers on the front. The wheels on the rear (4.5 BS) would turn with no apparent interference, but while driving near a wall, I can hear a very slight noise coming from the RR. I will have to clearance the caliper a very small amount.
I second the comments about Van Steel. I installed complete coil overs F&R with offset rear control arms and recommend them to anyone considering a suspension upgrade. Please let me if I can help.
Jon, I have just experienced the same issues that you have. I have 2 Wheel
Vintiques 15x7 rallys with 4.25 backspacing and 2 with 4.50 backspacing. When I installed the Wilwood calipers, the rotors were not centered in the caliper. They were noticeably toward the inside of the caliper. I had a friend water jet 4 spacers ranging from .085 to .115 in thickness. I used a .095 on the LF and .115 on the RF between the rotor and the hub to center the rotors. On the rear I used .100 thick washers sandwiched between the caliper mounting flange and the caliper mounting bracket to center the rear rotors. My wheels (4.25 BS) cleared the calipers on the front. The wheels on the rear (4.5 BS) would turn with no apparent interference, but while driving near a wall, I can hear a very slight noise coming from the RR. I will have to clearance the caliper a very small amount...
Arnold (427425)
Arnold, 15" X 7" Corvette (AG) rally wheels have 3 3/4" backspacing. The '67 (DC) rally's have 3 1/2" of backspacing.
Do you think if you tried a set of AG 15" X 7" rally's they might clear the calipers? We mounted a set of them on a '65 Corvette with stock disc brakes and had no fender or caliper clearance issues.
I am sure the factory rallys will fit, but the extra inch in width is to the outside, so I couldn't lower the car. I chose the wheels backspacing to take advantage of the coil overs and offset rear control arms. I have 225/60s on the front and 235/60s on the rear with zero clearance issues on a no hit body. It is lower than stock and handles great. Btw, where are you located. My father in law lived in Hubert after military retirement until he died in 2010.
I am sure the factory rallys will fit, but the extra inch in width is to the outside, so I couldn't lower the car. I chose the wheels backspacing to take advantage of the coil overs and offset rear control arms. I have 225/60s on the front and 235/60s on the rear with zero clearance issues on a no hit body. It is lower than stock and handles great. Btw, where are you located. My father in law lived in Hubert after military retirement until he died in 2010.
Thanks for the reply, Arnold
I'm very sorry for your loss.
I'm just about 7-8 miles south on Hwy 24. Hubert is the location of one of the best outdoor ranges in this area... and not a whole lot more. I've spent more than a few days in Hubert over the past 10 years.
I have been to the range a few times over the years, as well as the beach at EI. I bought several C2s out of that area over the last 40+ years. My BIL was a coach in Jacksonville for 40 years before they moved to CLT. We might be able to get together down there some time. Arnold
Jon, I have just experienced the same issues that you have. I have 2 Wheel
Vintiques 15x7 rallys with 4.25 backspacing and 2 with 4.50 backspacing. When I installed the Wilwood calipers, the rotors were not centered in the caliper. They were noticeably toward the inside of the caliper. I had a friend water jet 4 spacers ranging from .085 to .115 in thickness. I used a .095 on the LF and .115 on the RF between the rotor and the hub to center the rotors. On the rear I used .100 thick washers sandwiched between the caliper mounting flange and the caliper mounting bracket to center the rear rotors. My wheels (4.25 BS) cleared the calipers on the front. The wheels on the rear (4.5 BS) would turn with no apparent interference, but while driving near a wall, I can hear a very slight noise coming from the RR. I will have to clearance the caliper a very small amount.
I second the comments about Van Steel. I installed complete coil overs F&R with offset rear control arms and recommend them to anyone considering a suspension upgrade. Please let me if I can help.
Arnold (427425)
Arnold,
I have the same setup - I will check the rotor centering tomorrow. That may be the trick for the front.
My rear are 15x8 with 255/60 - everything seems to clear fine except the calipers! I have not compared the two, but the rear looks like it has a greater caliper issue.
I have been to the range a few times over the years, as well as the beach at EI. I bought several C2s out of that area over the last 40+ years. My BIL was a coach in Jacksonville for 40 years before they moved to CLT. We might be able to get together down there some time. Arnold
Jon, if you have some front end shims, you could loosen the rear caliper bolts and slide them between the caliper and mounting bracket. After you get the rotor centered, I would recommend installing hardened washers, as the shims may come out. They seem to have the most precise dimensions. Am I correct to assume that you have offset rear control arms? I wanted to put an 8" wheel on the rear of mine, but I would have needed a 5.5" BS to accomplish my goal. Good luck today.
Jon, if you have some front end shims, you could loosen the rear caliper bolts and slide them between the caliper and mounting bracket. After you get the rotor centered, I would recommend installing hardened washers, as the shims may come out. They seem to have the most precise dimensions. Am I correct to assume that you have offset rear control arms? I wanted to put an 8" wheel on the rear of mine, but I would have needed a 5.5" BS to accomplish my goal. Good luck today.
Arnold
Arnold,
My rear rotor is indeed offset to the inside in the caliper. So, the caliper could move in some. I measured a difference of about .056" between the two sides. Shifting the rotor only .028" to center it will not really help the binding issue that I have. I removed the powder coating from the back of the wheel where it is hitting and have begun to slowly filing the caliper at the points of interference. I install the wheel, spin it a little and file down the points of contact. Reinstall and repeat. I have had the wheel on and off probably 30 times now. Not the path I had planned when I purchased these items. With 3 different vendors involved, I will just have to work this out by myself!
I do have the offset trailing arms. The 15x8 with 5" backspace and 255/60 tires seems to clear. They definitely clear the inside. They may need some trimming in the wheel arch (which has already had some mods but no flares) but I will not know until I resolve the caliper issue first!
Jon, good to know that your problem basically mirrors mine. You still may want to consider shimming the calipers to center the rotor. The unintended consequence of not doing it will allow the outside pistons to come out of the caliper further than intended, not now, but as the pads wear.
Good luck getting it worked out. i will update this post over the coming weekend when I get back to my issue. Hopefully, it will be a minor problem.
I totally understand your frustration with the brakes. I have worked on these cars for 50 years, and recently, parts manufacturers version of 'bolt
on' and mine vary greatly. The one exception is the coil over kit and offset control arms from Van Steel. It is truly top notch. A truly great company to work with.
If I can find a .028" washer, I will shim the rear rotors centered. I have not measured the fronts but it seems that they have the same centering issue. I will measure them as well. Sounds like yours were more off center than what I have.
I look forward to getting this round of changes finished and the car back on the road!
Wheel/caliper clearance issues
