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I am going to replace the pan gasket and since the engine needs to be lifted, will change the motor mounts as well. Can the engine be lifted enough so that the pan can be removed by removing the transmission mounting and motor mount bolts?
I am going to replace the pan gasket and since the engine needs to be lifted, will change the motor mounts as well. Can the engine be lifted enough so that the pan can be removed by removing the transmission mounting and motor mount bolts?
As always, advance thanks for any and all advise.
You don't need to lift the engine to replace the pan gasket in a mid year.
Turn the crankshaft enough to get the counterweight out of the way.
You do not have to lift the engine to remove the oil pan. Take the two bolts off the idler arm at the frame and push the steering linkage forward. This will give you the necessary clearance to drop the pan. Do a search about where the timing mark should be set to give you a little extra room. I think it's TDC. Lastly, do your self a favor and get a Fel Pro one piece gasket for the oil pan. Jerry
You will also need to remove the starter to access the back corner bolt. With the pan off, check and see if the bolt holes are dimpled. If so, use a suitable object on the underside of each, then with a ball pein hammer, flatten each. Don't over tighten the bolts when you reinstall it. While you are in there, you might consider replacing the rear main seal if it's old and or leaking. Dennis
You will also need to remove the starter to access the back corner bolt. With the pan off, check and see if the bolt holes are dimpled. If so, use a suitable object on the underside of each, then with a ball pein hammer, flatten each. Don't over tighten the bolts when you reinstall it. While you are in there, you might consider replacing the rear main seal if it's old and or leaking. Dennis
Which means you need to disconnect the battery.
I put Anchor motor mounts on my '63...from what I've read they are about as good as it gets
To answer your next question, I am the type of guy that would give the motor mounts a try. I have all kinds of tools to get at any thing! Put the engine hoist plate on the intake, I probably would pop off the exhausts, remove the transmission mount, disconnect the clutch, remove the carb linkGe, etc etc and lift it just enough to see if I could change them out!
To answer your next question, I am the type of guy that would give the motor mounts a try. I have all kinds of tools to get at any thing! Put the engine hoist plate on the intake, I probably would pop off the exhausts, remove the transmission mount, disconnect the clutch, remove the carb linkGe, etc etc and lift it just enough to see if I could change them out!
I only use aftermarket Lakewoods with the locks!
Rather than doing all those back flips, wouldn't it be easier to get one of these?
Rather than doing all those back flips, wouldn't it be easier to get one of these?
Funny!
You just need to come up a little on lifting the engine to get them changed! Don't know how tight the exhaust are, don't want to bend a linkage or anything, etc. Depending on the type of car, you might be able to get them out without everything recommended!
On our 1973 Porsche RSR replica build, it is being rolled over and upside down using an 8 sided octagon frame.
Last edited by TCracingCA; Mar 15, 2017 at 11:54 AM.
To answer your next question, I am the type of guy that would give the motor mounts a try. I have all kinds of tools to get at any thing! Put the engine hoist plate on the intake, I probably would pop off the exhausts, remove the transmission mount, disconnect the clutch, remove the carb linkGe, etc etc and lift it just enough to see if I could change them out!
I only use aftermarket Lakewoods with the locks!
Hell, why not rebuild the motor, transmission, and replace the clutch while you're at it!