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I need to order a cam shaft for a 1962 Fuel Injected car.
Not real sure if that would be a 30-30 came shaft or not.
If any one can verify that I would appreciate it.
Thank You
I need to order a cam shaft for a 1962 Fuel Injected car.
Not real sure if that would be a 30-30 came shaft or not.
If any one can verify that I would appreciate it.
Thank You
It would have the Duntov 097 solid lifter cam. The 30-30 cam was installed in the fuel and solid lifter cars beginning 1964 model.
The Duntov cam is a nice piece. A number of sources are available.
It would have the Duntov 097 solid lifter cam. The 30-30 cam was installed in the fuel and solid lifter cars beginning 1964 model.
The Duntov cam is a nice piece. A number of sources are available.
Larry
I have an lightly used Duntov cam {with the green paint marking.) There's a bit of surface rust on one of the journals. Should I just clean the rust off and use it if there's no serious pitting or should I pick up a modern replacement? What replacement is closest to this grind? Do they make cam bearing for an undersized journal? it's only the rear one. Thanks!
Come to think of it, I might be able to get it ground down and press on a sleeve??
First I'd do evaporust on the end, then polish lightly, then measure and see where you are.
There is an old rule: Old cam either old or new lifters, New cam only new lifters - but I may have this backward.
At any rate, don't use lifters that have gone flat on the face or worse still, concave!
I used a Speed Pro (by Federal Mogul) CS113R cam in my 340HP clone engine. I was told it had the same grind as the original 097 Cam. Uses a solid lifter and stock springs. Reasonably priced.
The Duntov cam was designed in 1956 for the small port/valve size heads. It's not ideally suited to the big port 461X and later heads that had a larger inlet port, but essentially the same exhaust port, so the E/I flow ratio is only about 0.65, and a cam with longer exhaust than inlet duration is a better choice.
The "30-30" that came along in '64 is really too big for sensible road operation, which is why it was discontinued circa 1970 and the parts catalog called out the LT-1 cam as the service replacement for the 30-30.
The LT-1 cam uses the L-72 lobe (on a slightly smaller base circle) on the inlet side indexed at 110 deg ATC POML and the 30-30 lobe on the exhaust side advanced four degrees (relative to the 30-30 cam)to 122 deg. BTC POML. Fifty thousands lifer rise (above the tops of the clearance ramps) duration is 231/239 vs. 239/239 for the 30-30 and these durations can be directly compared to any hydraulic lifter cam because they are net of the clearance ramps. The "cam cards" will say 242/254 and 254/254 but these values include the clearance ramps,the tops of which are .012" (L-72 lobe) and .017" (30-30 lobe) above the base circle.
Despite the longer duration than the Duntov cam, the wide 116 deg. LSA yields about the same effective overlap as the Duntov, which is less that the 30-30.
L-76 Dynojet chassis dyno tests with massaged heads and close to 10.5 CR yield about 270 lb-ft @ 4500 and close to 300 SAE corrected RWHP @ 6500 with 80 percent of peak torque available at 2000, and the useable power bandwidth goes about 7200, which is the point of incipient valve float with OE springs set up for .090-.100" coil bind clearance.
The Federal Mogul CS-1145R is manufactured exactly to the GM LT-1 cam blueprint.
If you are rebuilding your engine be sure to replace the spindly first design connecting rods that are prone to fatigue failure. The Eagle SIR5700 rods are a good choice to ensure a bullet proof bottom end and can be purchased for about $250 per set.
The rust on the rear journal is no problem. It can be polished and whatever remains will be below the surface and will not cause an issue. But I would not run a cam that was broken in in one block and then swapped to another. This is why they say keep lifters in order on a broken in cam. Also looking at the 2 lobes you have pictured they are kinda flat across the top of the nose. When they are flat across the nose there's not a lot left to rotate the lifters. When I say flat I mean worn all the way across. The lobe has taper and only one side of the lobe actually should be touching the lifter. There would be black from parkerizing on one side of the nose if the lobe still had taper. Save yourself a lot of grief and get a new one.
Agree and get yourself a new 097 Duntov cam while your'e at it. It will work well in your engine.
I have no idea why anyone thinks it's a wise decision to install some off breed camshaft and then the next fellow that comes along has no idea what he's dealing with.
Agree and get yourself a new 097 Duntov cam while your'e at it. It will work well in your engine.
I have no idea why anyone thinks it's a wise decision to install some off breed camshaft and then the next fellow that comes along has no idea what he's dealing with.
I installed the off breed Speed Pro CS-113R for these reasons:
1.) I read where it was a mirror of the 097 cam. Written by a well respected member of this forum, and other Chevy forums.
2.) I trust the Speed Pro and Federal Mogul name.
3.) The price was right @ $120
4.) I saved all the documentation on my restoration and the cam card will go to the new owner when I die, so they'll know what's in the engine.
5.) The only original 097 cams I could find were; used, worn, and suspect
6.) I'm sure somebody must have some new 097's squirrelled away, but where would you find a new 097 cam? I looked all over, but couldn't find one.
I was using part # 3736098?? When you're looking for a cam online, you're bombarded with endless aftermarket choices.
I need to order a cam shaft for a 1962 Fuel Injected car.
Not real sure if that would be a 30-30 came shaft or not.
If any one can verify that I would appreciate it.
Thank You
The CS113R is what you want and it's same as original grind. Use a set of 1.6:1 rockers with that cam on a 1962-63 and you won't be sorry. Great cam, but low lift. The heads on the 327 will flow more than the 097 can deliver so the higher ratio rockers will help provide the extra flow and those heads will respond well. You can keep the original springs with this setup and they will work great.
Last edited by 65tripleblack; May 4, 2017 at 06:10 PM.
I have an lightly used Duntov cam {with the green paint marking.) There's a bit of surface rust on one of the journals. Should I just clean the rust off and use it if there's no serious pitting or should I pick up a modern replacement? What replacement is closest to this grind? Do they make cam bearing for an undersized journal? it's only the rear one. Thanks!
Come to think of it, I might be able to get it ground down and press on a sleeve??
No. I'd replace it before I'd sleeve it. It isn't worth that much to take that chance. Cleaned and polished the bearing surface will likely be usable. You just have to measure the lobes.
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