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I am upgrading my Alternator to a Single wire 120amp internal regulator alternator. Can anyone tell me what to do with my original regulator? Can I toss it ? Do I need to re-direct any of the connections going to the original regulator ?
Thanks,
Christopher C-2
Now that the morning madness is over, can anyone answer the OP's question? I'm looking at putting in an internal regulator alternator in my '67 C2 and also wonder: what do you do about the connections to the original external regulator?
I bought I relocation kit from one if the electrical suppliers a few years ago. It had a jumper that plugged into the regulator wiring. I think you need it to make other connections. I have since changed the wiring. Pretty sure I still have the jumper. You can have it if you like.
In apology, I offer up this article for the SI (Systems Integrated) internally regulated alternators - Mad Electric offers wiring kits and a phone call to them will yield more info than you may want to know:
Remove the regulator and tape all the wires back to the harness. If you ever want to go back to the original set up you will have the proper wires in place.
How do you hook up a 1-wire alternator?
What do you do when the stock alternator was originally externally regulated? It's simple! The only thing you need to hook up on a one-wire alternator is a charge wire from the terminal on the alternator to the positive terminal on the battery (or any positive battery source). The external regulator can either be totally dismantled from the firewall or left in place. If left in place, be sure to disconnect the wiring harness from the regulator. The wiring harness has to be disconnected from the regulator or the indicator light on the dash will remain on. Note: if the vehicle is equipped with an indicator light, the light will no longer be operative. Quote from the following http://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-to...nversion/28748
just a suggestion but a cs alternator from a later car with lockup overdrive [700r4,4l60e] fits easily........... the base cs has 100 amps and starts charging at a much lower rpm........my understanding of one wire jobs is they need more rpm than the si to start charging
the cs installation is easy with a plug in ac delco adapter
At the risk of beating a dead horse here, I'll add a little more on this topic. Back when I was faced with the one-wire alternator question, I got out the wiring diagram and drew a circle around the alternator and regulator. All the wires between the two are now within your one-wire alternator. The only wires that left the circle were one from the alternator and one from the regulator and they both went to the same lug on the horn relay. So I removed the old alternator and regulator and all the wires between. The new alternator was grounded with the mount and had a single wire to the lug on the horn relay. Saving the old parts and making it look nice is up to you.
At the risk of beating a dead horse here, I'll add a little more on this topic. Back when I was faced with the one-wire alternator question, I got out the wiring diagram and drew a circle around the alternator and regulator. All the wires between the two are now within your one-wire alternator. The only wires that left the circle were one from the alternator and one from the regulator and they both went to the same lug on the horn relay. So I removed the old alternator and regulator and all the wires between. The new alternator was grounded with the mount and had a single wire to the lug on the horn relay. Saving the old parts and making it look nice is up to you.
Stop with the logical approach already, you know those sort of shenanigans don't fly around here
and doubling the amperage your harness was designed for is not a real good idea
I would certainly and without delay improve and/or supplement the fusible links in a car where its harness is free to suck double its designed ampacity.
Bought a 68 New Yorker that had a replacement alternator twice its stock rating. They all look like Ferris wheels so I didn't catch it. Had a fresh battery in it and as you know a fresh battery will suck a lot of juice after discharge. I left the lights on and when I got her running the ammeter pegged and its circuit (admittedly a bad design) was smoking.
I always hear the worst regret an old car guy can have is to incinerate his stead from a stupid electrical problem. Almost all of them say,,,yeah I shoulda taken care of that.
Dan
Last edited by dplotkin; Apr 3, 2017 at 08:32 PM.
Reason: spelling
My 65 has a one wire system with 63 amp alt. that was installed by a previous owner. They left the "new" external regulator in place, disconnected the harness to it, then put electrical tape over the harness. I've left it this way due to the ease of switching it back should I ever desire. I doubt I ever will. I've often wondered why it was done since the voltage regulator looks brand new. Did the previous fellow have an issue with charging and gave up trying to figure it out?
Did the previous fellow have an issue with charging and gave up trying to figure it out?
Who knows. I bought it off a Fed X worker who spotted it holed up in a garage. I suspect it was swapped in as a replacement without anyone paying attention...there was only two styles.
It believe Frank is the one who has previously warned about the woeful overcurrent protection in C1 automobiles. This is true of most cars pre-1960. I have a 56 Cadillac with 6 fuses, a 63 Ford with A/C that has less. Then you have half a century old wiring sized to cope with modest loads that has suffered the indignities of splicing and added loads from audio and the like. Hook that up to a 120 amp alternator and if your number comes up...poof!
I convereted my '64 to a 1-wire and this is what I did.
Connect the existing red wire to the proper position on the alternator.
Connect the existing black wire to the case bolt of the alternator.
Cut of the plug (or remove the terminals) and tape the "field" and "lights" wires. Tuck them back into the loom.
If you have an original regulator, get a replacement regulator and gut it. Also, internally cut the leads away so you can leave the existing plug in-place on teh regulator..., for looks.
Convert the gutted regulator to hold two 25 amp relays to run your headlights and do the headlight relay treatment.
You can find out about that here if you do a search.
My 66 came with a one wire system installed, the regulator is still mounted and plugged in. The original cable/plug to the alternator is disconnected and cable tied to the wire set go to the alternator.
I was told from the manufacturer the alternator that a good ground is needed or the voltage will jump to 19V. The alternator's ground terminal needs to be connected to a good ground source to work properly.
If I unplug the regulator, the grounding get's screwed up and the voltage will jump to 19V. Most likely the ground wire is using the regulator as a link to the chassis ground. One day I will review why, but for now I need to keep the regulator connected for grounding and it looks more visual appealing. I may one day decide to get a non functional or replace the cover with GM/Delco metal stamp version.
...If I unplug the regulator, the grounding get's screwed up and the voltage will jump to 19V...Irwin
19 Volts would be its max output, caused by unregulated current allowed to the field windings. You want to make sure that does not happen on its own as it will cook light bulbs, make a stock radio unhappy, and hard boil your battery if left that way for long.
C2 Alternator Conversion
