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You can see in this first pic where I dropped a plumb bob from the shroud and marked one of the fan blades with a white dot of paint. This was to ensure that when I got everything put back together, the fan was the same distance in/out of the shroud as factory. In reading up on the cooling system, apparently fan placement within the shroud was a big part of the design.
You'll also note just how much water my pump was leaking and how nasty it was. Also odd was the fact that there was no thermostat installed in the housing. This, along with the hoses going to the heater core being blocked off with silicon that I found last year are odd...indication of an overheating issue perhaps?
With the original pump pulled, I test fit the new one and got it painted. In test fitting, I noted that I was going to need a 1/16 spacer on the fan to get it back in the original orientation, and I also needed to get shorter 3/4 inch bolts as opposed to the factory 1 inch long units because the shape of the snout on the new pump is beefier and the factory bolts were bottoming out, locking the fan in place. Just out of curiosity, I threw both pumps on the scale....relatively insignificant weight difference between factory cast iron and aftermarket aluminum, although the aluminum casting is significantly "beefier" in some areas.
I used VHT high temp primer, followed by Duplicolor "Chevy Orange" and VHT high temp satin clear. Unfortunately, the VHT "Chevy Orange" is a little too red. Its hard to see in the pictures, but the Duplicolor is about spot on, its just so drastically different being brand new vs. the old faded original pump. Hopefully over time, with heat cycles and road grime it won't be as noticeable.
Here if you look closely, you can see the white dot on top of the fan with everything reinstalled....its exactly in line with the shroud as it was when I disassembled it.
This is the modified hose I have running from the fill tank to the inlet on the water pump. The heater core is blocked off for now, until I can pull it out and verify there are no leaks....not a priority project at the moment as the heat is never used.
Stainless 1/2 NPT plug I used in the intake to replace the very crusty hose fitting for the outlet to the heater core.
Stewart spec'd 180 degree thermostat set up to work with their higher volume pump.
Everything installed and buttoned up.
This last picture I actually took while I was mocking things up, before painting the pump. In retrospect, I almost wish I had left the pump in raw aluminum and just coated it with the VHT high temp satin clear. It would have matched the valve covers and alternator well, and probably not have stood out as much as the bright orange...that being said, I'm not losing sleep over it....just a water pump.
I filled the system using a 50/50 mix of the old school green coolant and distilled water. I filled the radiator from the top hose fitting, and filled the block from the thermostat housing prior to buttoning everything up. I then fill the overflow tank half way and let the engine come up to temp with the top off the tank. It didn't pull much additional coolant out of the tank, and in 15 minutes of idling in the driveway, didn't break 172 degrees at the thermostat housing, so I took it for a 30 minute drive in mixed traffic. I stopped twice during the drive to check the temp with my infra red thermostat, and the highest temp I saw was 192. That being said, it was only about 85 degrees out, so I definitely wasn't stressing the system. Ill continue to keep and eye on it, but so far, all looks good.
I did make an effort to make a bunch of 3rd gear pulls from just off idle all the way to red line. There is a definitive break up in the ignition above 4500 RPM and at 5K, its almost like someone threw out a boat anchor as the rate of acceleration takes a drastic nose dive. I've got a new HEI distributor on the work bench and the required plug wires should be here tomorrow. Hopefully I can get that installed this weekend and get back on the dyno schedule. With the rebuilt carb, the car is definitely running a bit rich as I walked away from the 30 min test drive stinking of exhaust so I look forward to getting the AFR throughout the rev range dialed in as well as the ignition timing.
Looks good Greg. 1-2 issues I see though. One is the alternater is not in proper alignment as though the the lower pivot bolt/case has an issue. The other may be just an illusion but how close is the plastic elbow entering your expansion tank to your header?
Gordon, good eye....that photo was snapped with the lower alternator pivot bolt loose and the upper bolt only hand tight. As for the plastic elbow, thats just the angle of the picture....theres a good 6 inches between the elbow and the header tube.
Looks good Greg. 1-2 issues I see though. One is the alternater is not in proper alignment as though the the lower pivot bolt/case has an issue. The other may be just an illusion but how close is the plastic elbow entering your expansion tank to your header?
Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30
Gordon, good eye....that photo was snapped with the lower alternator pivot bolt loose and the upper bolt only hand tight. As for the plastic elbow, thats just the angle of the picture....theres a good 6 inches between the elbow and the header tube.
I was going to make the same observation about the alternator alignment (even though I'm really not wanting to be a Monday morning QB).
Instead, I'll say that is a nice-looking underhood with lots of attention to details, as well as lots of original L76 jewelry there. Looks great.
Always appreciated!! What I really need is someone to CDI the distributor swap after I'm done....I grew up on early fuel injected 5.0L Fords and LS motors so distributors and carbs are like black magic to me.
Well if you have Ford EEC systems some what down your swap will be a walk in the park. If you need an assist I'm happy to help you out. MarkC said your about 15min away from Va.Beach.
No not at all, it didn't penetrate, its in the most meaty part of the tire., watch it for a day or so, if need be plug it but I don't think you will need to.
If it's not leaking after screw removal, leave it alone...it will be fine. If she leaks, a new tire is in order. I would never trust a plug that close to the edge of a tire.
If it's not leaking after screw removal, leave it alone...it will be fine. If she leaks, a new tire is in order. I would never trust a plug that close to the edge of a tire.
^ This. Hopefully no leak. Unfortunately if it does I agree no plug there. A new $tire$ is the remedy.
Thanks guys. Agreed, a plug was NEVER a consideration. So far its holding, so we'll see. That half inch sheetmetal screw was only 2/3 of the way in and came out by hand....so hopefully no real damage done....TBD
Call me a hillbilly, and I know that this can easily become an emotional topic for many, but I've plugged tires that close to the shoulder and had them last thousands of miles until the tread. was worn out.
I understand that this screw didn't penetrate at all - good for you! That's the best kind. Particularly with speedy tires.
Now, clearly in the sidewall, no. Also depends on the tire's use.
So far so good....its holding air, although I haven't driven on it yet. I'm making slow progress on the distributor swap. Turns out crate training a German Shepherd pup is a full time job.....
Oh, that one’s got an attitude! One of the many wonderful things about GSDs is that they love, no crave a mission. Once they figure out the mission you have for them, they are fantastic. Getting there can sometimes be a real battle of wills. He/she is a beauty, though.
Oh, that one’s got an attitude! One of the many wonderful things about GSDs is that they love, no crave a mission. Once they figure out the mission you have for them, they are fantastic. Getting there can sometimes be a real battle of wills. He/she is a beauty, though.
Drive on. That tire is fine.
Yea, I'm excited. Our last GSD was a rescue, and he was loyal and an amazing pet, but clearly from a GSD puppy mill. I did a lot of research before settling on a breeder for round 2. "Tobi" is a GSD mix...mom was a cross between German show and working lines while dad was old school Czech working lines. Temperament and health were a priority. This guy was actually the "low drive" pup in the litter by design. We've had him a week and he is terrific....but a lot of work! First formal training is tomorrow. As with any new project, I'm looking forward to the process!!
08-25-2020, 06:44 AM
