Brake won't bleed
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 3,678
From: North Central Wisconsin & Shitcago
Brake won't bleed
My 67 327/350 coup sat for four years. Last summer I got back to it and found the brakes poor. I opened the master cylinder and found one of the two troughs empty (I think the rear but am not certain). I then rebuilt the brake cylinder, installed it, uninstalled it and then bled the MC before reinstalling it, put in new one way bleeders, rebuilt the calipers, new pads and new front hoses with new short rear lines to the calipers.
I have a Motive pressure bleeder. Today I checked with air pressure and found no leaks. I then put brake fluid in the Motive container and went to the right rear to bleed. Neither of the bleeders made any sound of rushing air nor did either end up with any fluid. I then checked the other three corners and all bled just fine, ending with no air bubbles and just solid brake fluid.
A visual inspection reveals no kinks or leaks of the rear solid lines to the caliper.
I can't figure out why there is no fluid going to just that one caliper. I'm at wit's end.
Any help would be greatly appreciated (Other than an inquiry as to type of fluid used- I just don't want to start that ball rolling again)
HELP
I have a Motive pressure bleeder. Today I checked with air pressure and found no leaks. I then put brake fluid in the Motive container and went to the right rear to bleed. Neither of the bleeders made any sound of rushing air nor did either end up with any fluid. I then checked the other three corners and all bled just fine, ending with no air bubbles and just solid brake fluid.
A visual inspection reveals no kinks or leaks of the rear solid lines to the caliper.
I can't figure out why there is no fluid going to just that one caliper. I'm at wit's end.
Any help would be greatly appreciated (Other than an inquiry as to type of fluid used- I just don't want to start that ball rolling again)
HELP
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 6,987
Likes: 269
From: Greenwood In.
You may have a piece of rust or something blocking the line somewhere. It could be in the line or master cylinder but my guess is in the brake line somewhere. You may have to hook up an air line and try to force air thru the line. If you do please be careful not to blow break fluid on paint or anything. You may want to cover the open end with a cloth of some type. Good luck.
Last edited by Mike Terry; Apr 14, 2017 at 02:20 PM.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 448
Likes: 6
From: ALLEN Texas
Old rubber line
My 67 327/350 coup sat for four years. Last summer I got back to it and found the brakes poor. I opened the master cylinder and found one of the two troughs empty (I think the rear but am not certain). I then rebuilt the brake cylinder, installed it, uninstalled it and then bled the MC before reinstalling it, put in new one way bleeders, rebuilt the calipers, new pads and new front hoses with new short rear lines to the calipers.
I have a Motive pressure bleeder. Today I checked with air pressure and found no leaks. I then put brake fluid in the Motive container and went to the right rear to bleed. Neither of the bleeders made any sound of rushing air nor did either end up with any fluid. I then checked the other three corners and all bled just fine, ending with no air bubbles and just solid brake fluid.
A visual inspection reveals no kinks or leaks of the rear solid lines to the caliper.
I can't figure out why there is no fluid going to just that one caliper. I'm at wit's end.
Any help would be greatly appreciated (Other than an inquiry as to type of fluid used- I just don't want to start that ball rolling again)
HELP
I have a Motive pressure bleeder. Today I checked with air pressure and found no leaks. I then put brake fluid in the Motive container and went to the right rear to bleed. Neither of the bleeders made any sound of rushing air nor did either end up with any fluid. I then checked the other three corners and all bled just fine, ending with no air bubbles and just solid brake fluid.
A visual inspection reveals no kinks or leaks of the rear solid lines to the caliper.
I can't figure out why there is no fluid going to just that one caliper. I'm at wit's end.
Any help would be greatly appreciated (Other than an inquiry as to type of fluid used- I just don't want to start that ball rolling again)
HELP
Replace the rubber line that will not bleed. They break down inside when sitting for a long time. I would replace both rubber lines.
Ray
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 61
From: TU CUM CARI NEW.MEX.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 3,678
From: North Central Wisconsin & Shitcago
There is no rubber line. I checked the caliper brake line and the fitting that connects to the long brake line has fluid. I then took the fitting off where it connects to the caliper and nothing came out. I assume there is some obstruction inside this line. Just to be safe, I ordered a new one. I will replace this line just to make sure.
Oh well, what is another week waiting for parts? I could blow it out but then I would always wonder if there are other bits of whatever inside the line waiting to cause havoc. A $15 replacement is peace of mind.
Thanks for the replies, they led me to check and find the culprit. You folks here are the best!
Oh well, what is another week waiting for parts? I could blow it out but then I would always wonder if there are other bits of whatever inside the line waiting to cause havoc. A $15 replacement is peace of mind.
Thanks for the replies, they led me to check and find the culprit. You folks here are the best!
Last edited by Joemac8; Apr 14, 2017 at 04:46 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,721
Likes: 3,707
From: Central Arkansas
There is a rubber line before the steel line running directly to the brake caliper in the rear. If there wasn't the metal line would break when the rear suspension moves. It could be obstructed. I would replace it as they will go bad and seal up when the inner lining breaks down.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 3,678
From: North Central Wisconsin & Shitcago
There is a rubber line before the steel line running directly to the brake caliper in the rear. If there wasn't the metal line would break when the rear suspension moves. It could be obstructed. I would replace it as they will go bad and seal up when the inner lining breaks down.
Dan, you are spot on. Thanks!!! I just added both side hoses to my order.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,149
Likes: 177
From: Chicago/Lake Geneva/Phoenix IL/WI/AZ
St. Jude Donor '06
D & M Corvette in Downers Grove usually has these in stock, along with many other parts. Joe is the main contact in the parts room. The prices are comparable to catalog order prices.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 3,678
From: North Central Wisconsin & Shitcago
I completely forgot about D&M. A lot better than ordering and waiting for parts.
Thanks for the reminder.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 3,678
From: North Central Wisconsin & Shitcago
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 3,678
From: North Central Wisconsin & Shitcago
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 3,678
From: North Central Wisconsin & Shitcago
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 214
From: Iowa
BTW: Some folks claim the SS lines increase pedal firmness because the SS line doesn't expand as much as the rubber line...I used SS lines on my 67...I didn't know any difference...
Either way is fine...SS is a little more money...
Either way is fine...SS is a little more money...
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 334
The guy that restored my car used SS lines. To me it's an over kill and in my experience in using them they tend to leak at the flare joints because the metal is harder then regular steel and will not seal as well.