[C1] painless ez wire
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Joined: Dec 2006
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painless ez wire
I was wondering if there is anyone out there that has had any experience with using painless or ez wire wiring harnesses. I'm going to be redoing my 62.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Larry
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Larry
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,462
Likes: 1,293
From: minneola fl
I've used all of them. Any of them will work, but you had better have some electrical knowledge, and access to such things as light sockets, plugs, etc. The stock replacement harnesses, as mentioned above, are very expensive, but anybody can install one. You typically don't get any ground wire (black) or ground connectors with the generic kits. Steering column plug can sometimes be a headache. Wiring the back of a dash can be a little intimidating, if you're electrically challenged. You'll get "most" of the wire with these generic kits, but there is a lot missing. The color coding is pretty standard, but again some knowledge is required.
I currently use the American Autowire Highway 22 for all of my rewires.
I currently use the American Autowire Highway 22 for all of my rewires.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,438
Likes: 1,255
From: Sarver Pa
2021 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I used the Autowire kit. Time consuming to put all the ends on , but YOU get to set the length of the wires and crimp em. I loved the fact that now I can just unplug the inst cluster to pull it. The stock harness is a pain in the back and I've had mine out a couple times for a custom tach and dash pad.
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Race Director
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Snake handler
I used the Autowire kit. Time consuming to put all the ends on , but YOU get to set the length of the wires and crimp em. I loved the fact that now I can just unplug the inst cluster to pull it. The stock harness is a pain in the back and I've had mine out a couple times for a custom tach and dash pad.
For my project, it was faaar less expensive than repro with added benefit of mil-spec insulation and master fuse. Plus, i can get fuses anywhere.
Lots of work to install. Plus extra circuits for headlights and grounding but really not that hard to figure out. I do not recommend pulling all the wiring out at once - one wire at a time!
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2011
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I used the Autowire kit. Time consuming to put all the ends on , but YOU get to set the length of the wires and crimp em. I loved the fact that now I can just unplug the inst cluster to pull it. The stock harness is a pain in the back and I've had mine out a couple times for a custom tach and dash pad.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,043
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From: Del Boca Vista FL
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 18,191
Likes: 145
From: Snake handler
Half the battle is learning how to crimp properly. I also solder my connections, preferring to remove the plastic part, crimp, solder then heat shrink. Pretty bullet proof although I did have a ground failure on my tail lights from a poorly executed crimp - even with solder. Moving the harness around to replace tail lights broke the (also crappy) solder joint. I must have done that one on a Friday. I've had zero electrical problems since I installed the Painless system about ten years ago.
My decision was based on cost and the fact that my car isn't a prime year or good candidate for NCRS type restoration. I chose to put the extra money saved (a couple grand) into the suspension and drivetrain.
My decision was based on cost and the fact that my car isn't a prime year or good candidate for NCRS type restoration. I chose to put the extra money saved (a couple grand) into the suspension and drivetrain.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,937
Likes: 163
From: OP Kansas
C2 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I'm struggling my butt off with a Painless (yeah right) unterminated system in my '55 Chevy. I bought the kit about 5 years ago but I am just getting around to installing it. Maybe the manuals are better now, but the wire colors don't match the originals, they refer to diagrams that don't exist and I find it overall confusing. It is made specifically for a '55-'57 Chevy but they don't call each terminal on the ign switch the same thing that is printed on the switch, so I get confused on which wire goes where.
I know I can call the tech line, but that takes time and no sooner do I get an answer to one thing I find another thing I don't understand. Also their hours are not when I happen to be working on the car (nights and weekends).
I'm glad to see Mike agrees that you better have some electrical knowledge because I have never struggled so much with any aspect of hot rodding as I am having with this "Painless" kit. To be fair though, I would probably have an issue no matter who wrote the manual. I've never really found one that made things as easy as if a real expert wrote it.
I know I can call the tech line, but that takes time and no sooner do I get an answer to one thing I find another thing I don't understand. Also their hours are not when I happen to be working on the car (nights and weekends).
I'm glad to see Mike agrees that you better have some electrical knowledge because I have never struggled so much with any aspect of hot rodding as I am having with this "Painless" kit. To be fair though, I would probably have an issue no matter who wrote the manual. I've never really found one that made things as easy as if a real expert wrote it.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
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Army
Assuming its a stock rewire:
The OP's car is a '62.
To wit, a lightly fused (read that as NONE in some cases) harness with a full-flow, unfused ammeter (e.g. 30 amps through that little gauge above your knee). If you had the same situation in your house at the breaker box you'd be crapping bricks.
Should we talk about the lack of fuses for the clock and cigarette lighter too now ?
Many a C1 has burnt up from electrical issues.
So yeah, dick around and save a few bucks by putting in some generic harness where you have to 'figure out' where things go, do a Constitutional interpretation of the instructions and then call the wiring manufacturer's tech support line so you can talk to somebody else that don't know crap about your specific issue and then you get to make up your own terminals on top of all of that. Then hope for the best.
Cheaping out always works so well on these cars...
The OP's car is a '62.
To wit, a lightly fused (read that as NONE in some cases) harness with a full-flow, unfused ammeter (e.g. 30 amps through that little gauge above your knee). If you had the same situation in your house at the breaker box you'd be crapping bricks.
Should we talk about the lack of fuses for the clock and cigarette lighter too now ?
Many a C1 has burnt up from electrical issues.
So yeah, dick around and save a few bucks by putting in some generic harness where you have to 'figure out' where things go, do a Constitutional interpretation of the instructions and then call the wiring manufacturer's tech support line so you can talk to somebody else that don't know crap about your specific issue and then you get to make up your own terminals on top of all of that. Then hope for the best.
Cheaping out always works so well on these cars...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Apr 30, 2017 at 04:45 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,438
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From: Sarver Pa
2021 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
"To each his own " I liked getting rid of the ammeter went to volt meter, I liked getting rid of the generator went to an alternator, I liked getting rid of points went to hei, went to electric fan also. I CAN read a print, know how to crimp ,solder and string wiring harnesses. American Autowire was WAY better FOR ME ! I also don't give a crap about original, more concerned about function.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,146
Army
"To each his own " I liked getting rid of the ammeter went to volt meter, I liked getting rid of the generator went to an alternator, I liked getting rid of points went to hei, went to electric fan also. I CAN read a print, know how to crimp ,solder and string wiring harnesses. American Autowire was WAY better FOR ME ! I also don't give a crap about original, more concerned about function.