C2 Instrument Cluster Restoration Recommendation
#21
Race Director
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Location: Cottonwood AZ
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C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
#22
Tank sender frying fuse??
Another aspect of my cluster refresh... the fuse driving the temp and fuel gauges blew. Replaced. Blew. Process of elimination identified the pink wire going to the fuel sender. With everything else connected but the pink wire... no blown fuse.
Hmmm...
Picture is the underside of my new gas tank with it's new fuel sender. The pink (+12v coning from the fuse in question) goes on 'I' and the tan goes on 'S' - goes back to the gauge. Wires only fit one way. An ohm meter gives curious results.
I is effectively GROUNDED. I to ground is 0.
S to ground is a few ohms - like 5.
I to S is a few ohms - like 5, and identical to S to ground.
Call me crazy, but I don't think that I should equal ground. But at least the short is sitting in gasoline. What could POSSIBLY go wrong with 10 amps coursing through a gas tank? After all, it's only for a second or two until the fuse blows.
I tossed the old sender, so I don't even have that to compare to. What I'm curious about is - what SHOULD be the resistance values?
I think I'll be looking for a warranty replacement.... but before I drain and yank, if anyone has 'good' values, I'm interested...
#23
...
Does anyone know if it's possible to re-introduce some oil into the gauge, and if so, what type? I have some very thin synthetic oil that I use to lube small electric fan motors. It has a hypodermic-like tube, so if there's someplace where I can squirt it into the gauget, then I have a shot... And then any guesses as to how much - a drop? 1ml? 3ml?...
.
Does anyone know if it's possible to re-introduce some oil into the gauge, and if so, what type? I have some very thin synthetic oil that I use to lube small electric fan motors. It has a hypodermic-like tube, so if there's someplace where I can squirt it into the gauget, then I have a shot... And then any guesses as to how much - a drop? 1ml? 3ml?...
.
#24
Team Owner
Another aspect of my cluster refresh... the fuse driving the temp and fuel gauges blew. Replaced. Blew. Process of elimination identified the pink wire going to the fuel sender. With everything else connected but the pink wire... no blown fuse.
Hmmm...
Picture is the underside of my new gas tank with it's new fuel sender. The pink (+12v coning from the fuse in question) goes on 'I' and the tan goes on 'S' - goes back to the gauge. Wires only fit one way. An ohm meter gives curious results.
I is effectively GROUNDED. I to ground is 0.
S to ground is a few ohms - like 5.
I to S is a few ohms - like 5, and identical to S to ground.
Call me crazy, but I don't think that I should equal ground. But at least the short is sitting in gasoline. What could POSSIBLY go wrong with 10 amps coursing through a gas tank? After all, it's only for a second or two until the fuse blows.
I tossed the old sender, so I don't even have that to compare to. What I'm curious about is - what SHOULD be the resistance values?
I think I'll be looking for a warranty replacement.... but before I drain and yank, if anyone has 'good' values, I'm interested...
Use the attached document to measure things...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 04-14-2019 at 03:39 PM.
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#26
Fuel tank sender to avoid...
beware?
A follow up on my tank sender debacle for others to ponder.
I bought a bunch of stuff at Eckler, including this offending sender. The offer two versions - one is more 'correct', and one is about $10 less. I'm not planning on more than the occasional Father's Day car show at the local church, so I opted to save the $10. Bad choice.
I returned the defective sender. They won't have the same one in stock until July (ouch! I already missed the single best weekend weather in recent memory). To my benefit, they replaced it with the 'more correct' one at no extra charge. So thanks to them for that.
I suggested to them that someone needs to tear down the one I sent back and find the short. That thing could have killed someone (i.e. ME) and burned down my house. I am happy not to have another one of those. I suggested that they cancel their order for more from that supplier and stick only with the better one.
I attached a pic from the Eckler web site where I bought it, and another that certainly looks identical from Rock Auto's web site. Steer clear...
#27
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: Rochester NY
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
#30
Temperature gauge does not use damping fluid, only the gas gauge has it.
#31
Melting Slicks
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Location: Michigan
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2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
Roger Scott at http://www.corvetteinstrumentservice.com/
did an excellent job on my cluster, gauges and clock.
did an excellent job on my cluster, gauges and clock.
#32
Team Owner
The repro sending units have 90 (ohms) embossed on them but are slightly off to the high side - they'll work fine...
The damping in the fuel gauge is bad-to-horrible...in the 63 at least....I quit worrying about it and only refer to it when its stable...
The damping in the fuel gauge is bad-to-horrible...in the 63 at least....I quit worrying about it and only refer to it when its stable...
#33
Team Owner
D&M repaired my 61 tachometer head unit years ago and did a good job...
They also checked and calibrated my speedometer head unit..that's all the dealings I've had with them..
They also checked and calibrated my speedometer head unit..that's all the dealings I've had with them..
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CorvetteMikeB (05-07-2019)