[C1] Overheating Left Rear Brake Assembly
#21
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I'll try one last time...put the emergency brake back on and drive the car a while using ONLY the emergency brake to stop repeatedly in some super safe area ?
The emergency brake does not involve the rear wheel cylinders or rubber brake hoses; its all mechanical and not hydraulic...
The emergency brake does not involve the rear wheel cylinders or rubber brake hoses; its all mechanical and not hydraulic...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 05-24-2017 at 05:51 AM.
#22
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Thanks for your inputs, earlier (two weeks ago before removing the differential) I removed the entire emergency brake lever, bolt, nut bracket and washer, from the LR wheel (secondary brake shoe) leaving only the loose end of the e-cable in the backing plate........IE No emergency brake on LR wheel. Drove 20 miles applied the brakes 8 times during that test run and the drum and wheel were smoking hot and you could smell the shoe material smoking. STICK A FORK IN ME I AM DONE!!!!!!!!
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I think you misread my post.
You apparently have a heat-related failure in a hydraulic part of the brake system that keeps the brakes engaged after a repeated number of stops. Typically this is internal "hour-glassing" of a brake line hose or a wheel cylinder that may have a rust line in the bore from disuse.
With new parts it'll be a defect.
What I propose eliminates hydraulics; if it works I'd replace the LR brake line, wheel cylinder and small metal connecting line on principle...
I would prob do that even if the test did NOT work.
To test the hard T-line I would completely loosen or even remove the LR bleeder valve and give the brakes a pump, if fluid jets out (watch the paint) that line is NOT your problem...
You're clearly frustrated and if this suggestions will only cause you more angst you can certainly ignore them - my feelings won't be hurt a bit...
You apparently have a heat-related failure in a hydraulic part of the brake system that keeps the brakes engaged after a repeated number of stops. Typically this is internal "hour-glassing" of a brake line hose or a wheel cylinder that may have a rust line in the bore from disuse.
With new parts it'll be a defect.
What I propose eliminates hydraulics; if it works I'd replace the LR brake line, wheel cylinder and small metal connecting line on principle...
I would prob do that even if the test did NOT work.
To test the hard T-line I would completely loosen or even remove the LR bleeder valve and give the brakes a pump, if fluid jets out (watch the paint) that line is NOT your problem...
You're clearly frustrated and if this suggestions will only cause you more angst you can certainly ignore them - my feelings won't be hurt a bit...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 05-24-2017 at 06:54 AM.
#24
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Raise the car on jack stands and run the rear axle, just like you're driving it and watch/listen to what happens and when.
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#26
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I am suggesting raising both rear wheels off the ground and spin the axle.
If one wheels tries to seize, he'll know it whether he has positraction or not.
If one wheels tries to seize, he'll know it whether he has positraction or not.
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The point of my test above was to test the mechanical parts (e.g. drum/shoe contact) vs the hydraulic parts (hoses/cylinders). Never tried it before but it seems valid. Plus, I thought this fella had swapped drums once already but I can't keep track.
#30
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could it be a crushed (or obstructed) left rear brake metal line? If it's all but fully crushed, it would let fluid go to the cylinder after multiple braking, but keep the brakes too long under pressure cause the fluid takes time to flow back through the obstructed line. Just trying to help
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Last edited by alexandervdr; 05-24-2017 at 08:21 AM.
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For the cost of a new, another rubber hose, I would replace that first.
If that does not fix it I would replace the wheel cylinder
I had a rubber hose act like a check valve, would bleed great but when hooked up to wheel would hold pressure when brake was applied
Steel line from "T" to wheel clean and clear?
If that does not fix it I would replace the wheel cylinder
I had a rubber hose act like a check valve, would bleed great but when hooked up to wheel would hold pressure when brake was applied
Steel line from "T" to wheel clean and clear?
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Sometimes, if your brake pedal doesn't come back all the way up, it will not relieve the pressure in the line, and it will keep building pressure with every pump of the brakes. But that would not explain why it's only happening in that one wheel. You might crack the bleeder when the brake is dragging to see if there is pressure in the line.
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#33
Burning Brakes
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There is a residual valve in the master cylinder that could cause the problem, the only way it could affect only one wheel would be if the return springs on that wheel were substantially weaker than on the other three wheels.
Remove and cap the line and try it, remember the left rear brake is not functional, if it heats up the problem in mechanical (drum and lining), if it doesn't it is hydraulics.
Bill
Remove and cap the line and try it, remember the left rear brake is not functional, if it heats up the problem in mechanical (drum and lining), if it doesn't it is hydraulics.
Bill
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With all the heat that has been generated during this testing, the brake shoes must by now be exhibiting a wear pattern. Would you share this with us?
#35
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I recently purchased a 62 on a 58 frame (MUTT) and completed a brake overhaul. All shoes, drums, cylinders, hardware, fluid, rear brake hose and steel lines, and rear axle shaft bearings. I have adjusted the shoes multiple times but the left rear get's smoking hot after driving about 5-10 miles. I removed the linkages inside the drum for the emergency brake thinking maybe a cause of dragging but no change. Can someone give me a clue as to what might be causing a single wheel to overheat after all of this maintenance? I am down to condeming the rear differential gear cluster causing the axle to overheat?