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One of my C2 cars doesn't have any sort of sealer applied under the lower stainless windshield molding (it has only the rubber gasket). Its not exactly waterproof. After washing it, I have a swimming pool on the front carpet...
I'm gonna have to try to seal it after the fact, as I don't want to take that molding off for any reason...Can anybody tell me what sealant to use to seal it?
One of my C2 cars doesn't have any sort of sealer applied under the lower stainless windshield molding (it has only the rubber gasket). Its not exactly waterproof. After washing it, I have a swimming pool on the front carpet...
I'm gonna have to try to seal it after the fact, as I don't want to take that molding off for any reason...Can anybody tell me what sealant to use to seal it?
Thanks,
Mike
While you're at it, pull the wiper grills and, check the cowl vents for cracks where the cabin bonds to the firewall.
Keep in mind that if you do not put the trim:
1. Any dirt in the channel will prevent the sealant from adhering
2. When you put the sealant in behind the trim, it will glue the trim to the clips and everything it touches. It may be extremely hard to save the trim if you ever do have to remove it for a windshield or repaint or etc. I experienced this first hand.
Keep in mind that if you do not put the trim:
1. Any dirt in the channel will prevent the sealant from adhering 2. When you put the sealant in behind the trim, it will glue the trim to the clips and everything it touches. It may be extremely hard to save the trim if you ever do have to remove it for a windshield or repaint or etc. I experienced this first hand.
According to what I've researched, the stuff Frankie recommend NEVER hardens. So, it shouldn't be a problem to remove later.
One of my C2 cars doesn't have any sort of sealer applied under the lower stainless windshield molding (it has only the rubber gasket). Its not exactly waterproof. After washing it, I have a swimming pool on the front carpet...
I'm gonna have to try to seal it after the fact, as I don't want to take that molding off for any reason...Can anybody tell me what sealant to use to seal it?
Thanks,
Mike
My '67 roadster had this exact problem (that I discovered when I removed the glove compartment for the first time). I think I caught the problem pretty soon after it started as surface rust was just starting on the birdcage under the windshield. I also could not remove the stainless trim as the retainer clips are rusted in place. What I used and has sealed the water leaks for going on 5 years now, is Permatex "Flowable Silicone Windshield & Glass sealer" their item #81730. I think I bought this at NAPA. Supplied in a 1.5 oz. tube with applicator nozzle. As the name implies, you simply apply a small amount to the gap between the rubber gasket and the glass or gasket and trim depending on where you think the leak is occurring. This stuff is almost like water in it's ability to flow. Anyway, it worked for me.
Phil M.
I've had good luck using the body sealer to further seal up the corners of the windshield after the trim has been reinstalled. Also used this in the windshield cowl area as well.
Keep in mind that if you do not put the trim:
1. Any dirt in the channel will prevent the sealant from adhering
2. When you put the sealant in behind the trim, it will glue the trim to the clips and everything it touches. It may be extremely hard to save the trim if you ever do have to remove it for a windshield or repaint or etc. I experienced this first hand.
Thanks guys,
I had the same issue on one of my 63's, but had someone seal it for me. It worked fine. I don't want anyone working on this car, so I'll do it myself...
There is no dirt whatsoever under there, all fresh, so I'll try Frankie's sealer.
I am placing an order tonight for this sealant and the applicator to seal the windshield glass to the windshield weatherstrip. I believe it's the stuff glass installers used to use to seal gasketed windshields.
I'd read some of the reviews - that stuff may work fine with the molding and rubber off and a fresh install. I don't think it will flow well enough to leech down into problem areas; but I could be wrong.
The sealant in my picture was actually fluid enough to put in that hypodermic and inject it well down into leak prone areas...
I've had good luck with a product called "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure" (I know, funny name, ) along with a hypodermic needle to seal hairline cracks.
It looks like milk and, has about the same consistency but, when dry becomes quite solid. Originally made for marine use, hence the name.
I've had good luck with a product called "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure" (I know, funny name, ) along with a hypodermic needle to seal hairline cracks.
It looks like milk and, has about the same consistency but, when dry becomes quite solid. Originally made for marine use, hence the name.
Gary
OK.
There are so many punch lines lurking in this post that I'm just gonna take the high ground and let it go
There are drains from the cowls through the frame. If the hole at the bottom of the frame is plugged, water will back up and flow through the vent onto the carpeting. Did you see the water from under the dash or just notice a wet floor? You can take a heavy wire and clean out the opening from under the car.
There are so many punch lines lurking in this post that I'm just gonna take the high ground and let it go
I know, I know Frankie but, don't blame me I didn't make up that stupid name. All I know is that it has worked for me and gets great reviews from others. Google it.
I am placing an order tonight for this sealant and the applicator to seal the windshield glass to the windshield weatherstrip. I believe it's the stuff glass installers used to use to seal gasketed windshields.
You are using the correct product just make sure to order the application gun that screws on the can top, you absolutely need the gun. Use this sealer under the rubber windshield gasket (between the glass and rubber) after the glass is installed in the car and to make repairs on existing rubber gasket or molding already installed on the car.
To seal the pinch welt channel on new windshield installation before installing the molding C R Laurence makes a different product that goes in a caulk tube. I can't remember the part # but if you search you will find it.
Thanks to DUB for sharing his experience with these products, C R Laurence is the stuff to use.
When sealing the rubber gasket to windshield put some 1 1/2" masking tape around the glass edge and have some mineral spirits for clean up. The gun tip allows you to lift the rubber and get the tip up inside the rubber and fill any void around the glass/rubber gasket.
Tbarb. Thanks for the tips! Yes my windshield is already installed. I used the 3M stuff on the installation on gasket to frame
after using a priming agent on the windshield frame. I'm happy with the install so far. Just need to finish up with the Flow Grade Butyl from CRL.
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