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63 turn signal switch disassembly

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Old 05-29-2017, 08:47 PM
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chrismoore701
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Default 63 turn signal switch disassembly

how do I take the turn signal switch apart? I bought a new one and it broke already. Going to try to rebuild the old one. The housing is cracked and the slide is very stiff. How do I remove the clip to split the case. Was going to lube with dielectric grease. Thoughts?
Old 05-30-2017, 08:13 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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I've never read of one being dis-assembled on here. From the pictures it seems that unlocking the metal "T" tabs coming off the mounting bracket would do the trick but I don't know for sure... If its bad, I don't see where you have much to lose by trying...
Old 05-30-2017, 08:24 PM
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miked16
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Frankie has it right. I took mine apart this weekend, in addition to bending the tabs you also need to remove the 1/4 machine screw that is part of the cable clamp. I bent the tabs just enough to pry the thing apart. Once apart, there are three floating copper conductors, pay attention to the orientation if you decide to pry them out. You should be able to mix and match parts to get one to work. Good luck!
Old 05-30-2017, 08:27 PM
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chrismoore701
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Any other thoughts? I don't want to tear it up if it is salvageable. What about lubing the slide?
Old 05-30-2017, 09:07 PM
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PeteVS
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I bought a replacement switch from one of the usual vendors. It's been working fine for a couple of years now. I'm thinking that you might try soaking it in solvent and blowing it out with air to get the old gunk out and then shooting new gunk in? I don't remember if there are any openings large enough to get anything in there though.
Old 05-30-2017, 10:07 PM
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chrismoore701
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I am certain that solvant will eat the plastic housing
Old 05-31-2017, 07:34 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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Originally Posted by chrismoore701
I am certain that solvant will eat the plastic housing
You should just pop it open carefully as noted above. Take cell phone pics before you take things apart Make sure all the contacts are nice and clean, remove any congealed goo and lube if needed. Reassemble then come back here and post pics of the process.

These parts aren't made out of gold, are tougher than you think and there are repros if the worst should happen. The units are put together snugly to keep crud out so you ain't fixing it from outside.
Old 06-01-2017, 10:02 PM
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Pulled both switches apart. Both had the same problem. The tab from the slide came off. The original switch got hot and has distorted. I took parts from both switches an pieced together and new switch. Problem now is the brake lights do not work. Seems the top slide of the pyramid is not making contact. Will tear back apart and look. May need to buy a new switch.

Last edited by chrismoore701; 06-01-2017 at 10:04 PM.
Old 06-02-2017, 07:09 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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At least you know what's going on now. Surprised there is enough heat at the floorboard to distort anything but I would think between the two parts you could make one work.
Old 06-02-2017, 09:34 AM
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Default I know what you are going through

I went through a similar problem putting together a friends car last year. I had issues with 2 reproduction switches and finally ended up redoing the original - although they all had similar issues.

The design of the switch is such that the contacts that slide can get out of position if they are "forced" and that can cause all kinds of strange things like brake lights not working or all 4 lights flashing.

I found that care must be taken when plugging in the harness connector because that can cause the contacts to shift in the switch.

I used a continuity test function on a multi meter to determine when the switch was working right after I put it all back together before remounting the switch on the steering column.

Good Luck -

B Cochran
Old 06-02-2017, 03:11 PM
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chrismoore701
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Originally Posted by Wondertoad
I went through a similar problem putting together a friends car last year. I had issues with 2 reproduction switches and finally ended up redoing the original - although they all had similar issues.

The design of the switch is such that the contacts that slide can get out of position if they are "forced" and that can cause all kinds of strange things like brake lights not working or all 4 lights flashing.

I found that care must be taken when plugging in the harness connector because that can cause the contacts to shift in the switch.

I used a continuity test function on a multi meter to determine when the switch was working right after I put it all back together before remounting the switch on the steering column.

Good Luck -

B Cochran
Yea I will do that this time, thank god it was not as hard to install this time

Chris
Old 06-02-2017, 03:17 PM
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chrismoore701
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I called Long Island Corvette and they agreed to replace the switch if I send it back. When I get the new one, is there anything I should do to ensure this does not happen again. Like take it apart and be sure everything is tight?
Old 06-02-2017, 03:23 PM
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Frankie the Fink
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The switch should work out of the box and Long Island generally has quality stuff.
You could put the connector on the switch but NOT the cable and mount it to the steering column. You should be able to move the slider by hand and engage both side's turn signals as well as center the switch so there is no signaling and the brake lights are completely off on both sides. Then attach and adjust the cable..

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