Bluffman

I have a 67 327/350 roadster, if you were going to change carberator what would you install,

Nowhere Man

A oem 3810

Powershift

I would probably just buy a new service replacement #3810. But that's just me. Let's see what others say.

Larry

AZDoug

A spreadbore manifold and holley 6210.

Doug

Stan's Customs

Very interesting Doug...and I have used the spreadbore Holleys a few times on spreadbore stock manifolds. But... I'm curious why you would recommend a spreadbore set up.

(...I'm guessing that a 67 327/350 has a square bore manifold, correct? If not ...then "never mind"...as Rosanna Rosanna Dana would say..lol!)

leif.anderson93

You don't state why you want to change or what you're trying to accomplish. If your car is a stock setup L79, I personally wouldn't try to overthink this. Just replace with a new Holley 4160 List 3810

http://www.specialtypartsdirect.com/...7ci-_p_24.html

Bluffman

Thanks guys, I have had my 3810 carb rebuilt once already, and supposedly once by the place I purchased the car, it just doesn't idle good or in my opinion run right, stinks up my garage with a fuel smell. I did do a search and came up with vintage muscle car parts, maybe I will give them a shot at my carb. Ian

Frankie the Fink

Don't play around, send the carb to Chuck Smith or Lars, those are the Holley guys.

Powershift

Eric Jackson runs Vintage Musclecar Parts, and is a leading USA rebuilder of all carbs...........especially Holley. Endorsed by both JohnZ and the Yenko website regulars. He is no new comer to the process.

Chuck Smith and Lars are also excellent sources for this work.......but don't knock others who are equally talented.

Larry

AZDoug

I really like the spread bore with its small primaries for low speed throttle response, (with dual plane manifold) and it gives pretty good fuel economy, unless you mash the throttle, but being a double pumper and having those huge secondaries makes an L79 stand up and scoot, RFN, esp in a light weight car like the Corvette.

I ran one on my L79 for years in the '61, and still do in my '37 Ford pickup, though the cam has been changed to something milder in the '37 ford I put the old L79 in.

They do make spreadbore to square flange adapters, if you have the hood clearance

Doug

Frankie the Fink

Not intending to knock anybody, I usually only recommend people I've personally deal with before....

SupremeDeluxe

Eric is the man.

I sent you a PM with more info.

Bluffman

Thanks supremedeluxe, I was going with the johnz recomendation, it is going to get sent to them this Monday. I am just hoping that this will solve the gas smell and idle. Ian

leif.anderson93

Are you trying to salvage the original, dated coded Holley on your car?? If not, you're just throwing good money after bad. Please re-read post #6.

Bluffman

It's not the right date, it's an 70s replacement I think. This morning I removed the air cleaner and checked the 4 nuts that hold the carb on, the passenger rear nut would not tighten down, I removed the stud easily, purchased a new stud but I might have too helicoil it, but won't know that till I get home from work, has anybody fixed the aluminum L79 manifold with new studs. Ian

boxster99t

Four years ago while doing my standard brakes to power brake conversion on my 67 I also replaced the whistling Dec 1966 3810 Holly carb on my 327/300 HP with a new Holly replacement carb I bought from Long Island Corvette parts, and I could not be happier. It bolted right up, adjusted the mixture and idle screws per the service manual instructions and it just purrs perfectly at 500-600 rpms at idle; starts from cold like a champ, etc...

I still have the takeoff 1966 Holly--one of these days I may sell it to someone looking for one for a top flight car. It's almost certainly too old to be the original carb to my 67 which was built in the first week of May 1967.

The main reason I went the replacement route, is not wanting to to deal with sending my carb off to be re-built, and waiting.

Also, I figured if I ever sell off the 66 carb, I'd come close to break even. I estimated at least $200 sending the 66 3810 off for repair and rebuilt and some uncertainty of what I'd have when done. So $200 to repair and rebuild.

Or I could sell the 66 3810 as is (I understand literally junk 3810's bring $500), and other than the intermittent whistle mine's clean/functional.

Subtracting $500 proceeds of the 66 3810 from the $750 purchase price of the new carb, would be a net cost of $250 to go new. So I figured, no wait, no down town, and the new carb works great. Go new.

Bluffman

Going to buy a new one, thanks leaf it really doesn't make sense to keep putting money into a carb that was not on the car when it left the factory. Now I need to fix the stud that holds the carb on. Ian

My1967

Ian, Did you get the new 0-3810? Please let us know how you like it.

I am also considering buying a Holley 0-3810 from specialtypartsdirect.com.

leif.anderson93

I recommend these because I have bought them in the past with terrific satisfaction. You can buy one with piece of mind and install it in less than 30 minutes. I bought my most recent 3810 from them two years ago for my '67 L79. Just pull the trigger

Bluffman

Mine arrives this Wednesday, I will install Thursday and let you know. Ian