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yes, we ran new rear line to the "T" and have pumped and tried to bleed them, put a vacuum bleeder on both sides and it will hold 20lbs of vacuum until you release it. have taken the brake lines off at the rear calipers and still can't get fluid to them. pulled master cylinder forward to make sure the rod wasn't to far into master cylinder. have fluid to and thru the proportioning valve. double checked for leaks at all connections. have a good flow out of master cylinder bleeders but brake pedal doesn't feel like it builds pressure and feels like it hits the bottom limit of travel every time we try to bleed anything. we vacuumed old fluid out of rear calipers; only thing I can think of is the new "T" we installed may not have been machined correctly or drilled completely.
I had the same problem with my 65 when I installed Power brakes.
I also tried a vacuum bleeder with not so good results.
I bought a Motive Power Bleeder. (about $70) It uses positive pressure on the Master cylinder and pushes the fluid thru, no problem.
we've spent about 4 hours on it after getting it installed and the only thing that is bled
is the master cylinder,( bench and about 5 times on the car) gravity should pull fluid thru the system if both ends are open and enough time, but I've got nothing coming thru the lines with all the effort we have spent.
Sometimes the piston in the proportioning valve will get jammed and will not let fluid to the rear, but a friend of mine also had a defective proportioning valve - we tried power bleeding, vacuum bleeding and conventional pumping the pedal with zero results. Changed the valve and had no problems bleeding.
Did you check for fluid at the inlet and outlets of the new tee? If good at the outlets, it could be the rubber hoses- but both sides going bad at the same time is not likely.
Your power brake conversion kit included a new power brake master cylinder and the associated proportioning valve, correct.
Check to see if you have fluid at the inlet of the proportioning value. If so, then check to see if you have fluid coming out of the proportioning valve.
No need to take the lines completely off, just crack them loose and push the pedal. Be sure to cover anything that can get brake fluid on it.
Just start at the master cylinder, and work your way back to each joint / fitting until you find where the fluid is NOT coming through.
sorry I didn't get back sooner, it was over 11 hours to get a new password sent to me so I
could respond. i'll check the bottom side of proportioning valve this evening after work if I
get the chance. where would I find the post about the longer rod? nothing was mentioned
about needing that when I purchased the kit from corvette America. thanks
sorry I didn't get back sooner, it was over 11 hours to get a new password sent to me so I
could respond. i'll check the bottom side of proportioning valve this evening after work if I
get the chance. where would I find the post about the longer rod? nothing was mentioned
about needing that when I purchased the kit from corvette America. thanks
Eventually you can check the rod by pressing the brake pedal (engine off) : the first 1/2" or so you should only feel the resistance from the pedal spring because there should be free play between pushrod to cylinder , then resistance should increase substantially cause the pushrod starts pushing the cylinder. In all other cases there is a problem: or no free play (needs adjustment at the pedal end of the rod according to spec in AIM, probably not the cause of your problem however), or way too much play (again adjustment or too short rod)
I am not a hot shot expert, but this is what I would try first cause it's simple
Last edited by alexandervdr; Jun 5, 2017 at 06:29 AM.
When I converted my 65 to p/b I installed the wrong push rod. The brakes were partially engaged causing a drag. I believe I had to use the shorter rod. However, please verify that.
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