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Old 06-17-2017, 04:35 PM
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lonzoo
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The last 2 times I have driven my 63 SWC I have a PCV issue. After a while driving I notice a funny suction type noise and have found my PCV tube has come out of the rubber grommet in the block by the distributor. Can something be put on the pipe to keep it sealed in the rubber grommet? If so what is the best sealer to use? Can this be an issue with the PCV valve? I took it out and it seems clean and rattles good.
Old 06-17-2017, 04:57 PM
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Nowhere Man
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Isn't there a bolt that holds it down
Old 06-17-2017, 05:03 PM
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Frankie the Fink
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
Isn't there a bolt that holds it down
Not on a 63...the tube is literally just stuffed down into a grommet where earlier years had a road draft tube. Often the movement is due to too long or too short of a rubber hose that goes from the metal pipe to the PCV valve. The OP should try adjusting the length so there is less force on the metal tube...

My 250hp car has power brakes so the rear carb fitting may be different...
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Old 06-17-2017, 05:06 PM
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lonzoo
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No just a large rubber grommet in block with about 3/8 tube fitted into hole on groomet. The tube runs from the grommet around distributer and to PCV valve in back of carb
Old 06-17-2017, 05:31 PM
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lonzoo
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Not on a 63...the tube is literally just stuffed down into a grommet where earlier years had a road draft tube. Often the movement is due to too long or too short of a rubber hose that goes from the metal pipe to the PCV valve. The OP should try adjusting the length so there is less force on the metal tube...

My 250hp car has power brakes so the rear carb fitting may be different...
Thanks Frankie i will try doing that
Old 06-18-2017, 09:11 AM
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65air_coupe
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I hate to suggest it but you might have excessive crankcase pressure pushing it out. That's how I found a cracked piston.
Old 06-18-2017, 11:42 AM
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SWCDuke
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Those rubber grommets harden and shrink over time due to heat and lose their "grip" on the tube, so the first thing to try is a new one, but I wonder if currently available replacements use a rubber compound equal or better than OE quality/durability.

What you have is a replacement. Original '63 grommets consisted of rubber molded into a steel adapter that was pressed into the block. When I removed the tube as part of an engine rebuild at 115K miles in the mid seventies the rubber was severely cracked and disintegrated into pieces when I removed the tube. At that time the GM replacement was the full rubber grommet that I recall entered production in '64, and it became the service replacement for the steel/rubber composite type that was OE on earlier engines.

Duke

Last edited by SWCDuke; 06-18-2017 at 01:15 PM.
Old 06-18-2017, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SWCDuke
Those rubber grommets harden and shrink over time due to heat and lose their "grip" on the tube, so the first thing to try is a new one, but I wonder if currently available replacements use a rubber compound equal or better than OE quality/durability.

What you have is a replacement. Original '63 grommets consisted of rubber molded into a steel adapter that was pressed into the block. When I removed the tube as part of an engine rebuild at 115K miles in the mid seventies the rubber was severely cracked and disintegrated into pieces when I removed the tube. At that time the GM replacement was the full rubber grommet that I recall entered production in '64, and it became the service replacement for the steel/rubber composite type that was OE on earlier engines.

Duke
Thanks for the help. Actually the grommet itself stays in block very nice..its the metal tube section that pops out of the grommet. This was all replaced last winter and I am going to play with the rubber hose length as Frankie suggested. I will let you all know how it works out.
Old 06-18-2017, 11:07 PM
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I agree with 65AIR. Sounds like you may be building crankcase pressure? What sort of PCV valve and system do you have? Is the oil filler tube vented to the air cleaner?
Old 06-19-2017, 06:48 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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My metal tube would work its way up on my 250hp occasionally. It doesn't take much and doesn't mean it's time for an overhaul. A simple change in configuration cured it. I would expect to see the dipstick unseated and other signs of cranckase
pressure before the tine is pushed up.
Old 06-19-2017, 12:57 PM
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lonzoo
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
My metal tube would work its way up on my 250hp occasionally. It doesn't take much and doesn't mean it's time for an overhaul. A simple change in configuration cured it. I would expect to see the dipstick unseated and other signs of cranckase
pressure before the tine is pushed up.
I have cut a small piece of the hose off and it seems to help the tube fit more perpendicular to the grommet. A little longer hose seemed to make the tube set at a small angle to the grommet. Drove it for a short time and it seems to be OK. Will keep an eye on it and my fingers crossed. NoWhere and 65 scared me to death !!
Old 06-19-2017, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by lonzoo
I have cut a small piece of the hose off and it seems to help the tube fit more perpendicular to the grommet. A little longer hose seemed to make the tube set at a small angle to the grommet. Drove it for a short time and it seems to be OK. Will keep an eye on it and my fingers crossed. NoWhere and 65 scared me to death !!
It doesn't take much, because of the angles, to put that tube in a bind and then it'll walk out.

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