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I have a Corvette trickle charger that came with my C7. I had it plugged into my C2 for a couple weeks and all was perfect. I recently used it in the C7 for a couple days and today I plugged it back into the cigarette lighter, as I had before and I saw a small spark as I plugged it in. I immediately saw the interior lights go out and everything I tried to operate electrically was dead. I glanced at the fuses and all looked fine. I had to leave for work so I didn't get to check anymore.
It's like the battery is dead? Any ideas or where I should look first?
Many car chargers have a fuse in the cigarette lighter plug.... HOWEVER
There are also some bad, dangerous repro cigarette lighter housings...there are other dangers as well prior to '67. Read the JohnZ post (but the picture is gone):
Gotta be something very small and quick, it was open instantly, I'll take your advice and use alligator clips on battery.
it won't take much when you got 12 volts back feeding though the system while it still has juice flowing though it. I will add to all this and buy a battery cut off switch as well. and I hope for your sake this is not a 900 dollar mistake.
First thing I'd do is look in the lighter socket. Anything look odd in there? Then look under the dash. Any melted wires?
All the voltage comes into the fuse box on a red wire through the bulkhead connector. Do you have a voltmeter? If so, measure with the meter negative on a KNOWN good ground and the positive on the left side of the bottom two fuses. Post back what you get.
What doesn't work? Radio, clock, glove box light, courtesy lights, heater fan, wipers, brake lights, horn, starter? I'll be glad to help if you'll check where I ask and post back answers. I've been having trouble lately getting answers when I try to help someone. I ask them to measure fuse voltage and they say "fuses look fine, I replaced "whatever" and it still doesn't work. Since I can't be there, we have to do one step at a time.
Last edited by 65GGvert; Jun 21, 2017 at 09:51 PM.
First thing I'd do is look in the lighter socket. Anything look odd in there? Then look under the dash. Any melted wires?
All the voltage comes into the fuse box on a red wire through the bulkhead connector. Do you have a voltmeter? If so, measure with the meter negative on a KNOWN good ground and the positive on the left side of the bottom two fuses. Post back what you get.
What doesn't work? Radio, clock, glove box light, courtesy lights, heater fan, wipers, brake lights, horn, starter? I'll be glad to help if you'll check where I ask and post back answers. I've been having trouble lately getting answers when I try to help someone. I ask them to measure fuse voltage and they say "fuses look fine, I replaced "whatever" and it still doesn't work. Since I can't be there, we have to do one step at a time.
Well 65GGvert I got home a short time ago from work, dug my meter out and started to look around. I measured the battery at 12.71 volts, so that isn't the issue. I looked under the dash at the wiring to the lighter and the lighter socket as you suggested and everything looked perfect. I tried to see the electrical "red wire" running to the fuse block and I couldn't see it. I looked the fuse block over carefully and it all looked perfect.
I looked at the firewall in the engine compartment to see where the wiring passed through. I found 2 white plastic (aged) electrical plugs just to the out side of where the clutch pedal rod comes through the firewall. The plug to the inside had a red wire so I thought that must be the feed to the fuse block. I grasped ahold of it and I heard an electrical-mechanical sound like a relay. Everything started working again!!! This area must have a ground potential. I will open the battery disconnect and look this connection over carefully to see if I can find the issue. First I gotta sleep a little - worked all night shutting down the Lauderdale Power Plant as it cycled off. I'm so happy the baby is alright.
Those are the bulkhead connectors; you should examine them carefully for corrosion, bent/scorched/missing/pushed-in pins and general condition. A good spray out with DeOxit contact cleaner spray or the like is advisable...
I suspect the sparking at the cigarette lighter was a symptom and as you've discovered your problem it seems...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jun 22, 2017 at 06:34 AM.
That's the red wire. It connects to the back side of the fuse box. Clean those contacts at the bulkhead, and don't plug the charger anywhere except the battery. Here's what a really bad one looks like:
Last edited by 65GGvert; Jun 22, 2017 at 07:03 AM.
That's the red wire. It connects to the back side of the fuse box. Clean those contacts at the bulkhead, and don't plug the charger anywhere except the battery. Here's what a really bad one looks like:
Wow, those are really corroded, mine were starting to go bad. Just gave them a thorough cleaning based on recommendations. Thanks for the help.
1964 Sting Ray firewall electrical bulkhead connections
Smear some dilectric grease on those terminals before you snap the harness back on...it will help keep the corrosion demons at bay
P.S. Check the length of your alternator belt. Your adjustment is at the max edge...shouldn't have to be that far out...maybe a belt an inch shorter. Very sanitary engine compartment. You should be plenty proud.
Last edited by leif.anderson93; Jun 22, 2017 at 02:55 PM.
Smear some dilectric grease on those terminals before you snap the harness back on...it will help keep the corrosion demons at bay
P.S. Check the length of your alternator belt. Your adjustment is at the max edge...shouldn't have to be that far out...maybe a belt an inch shorter. Very sanitary engine compartment. You should be plenty proud.
Good eyes...
Indeed, a squeaky clean engine bay...and we know how much work that takes; I always enjoy seeing those slightly yellowed, original plastic wiring harness straps in front of the cowl.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jun 22, 2017 at 03:03 PM.
Thanks guys, it keeps me busy, keeping it up, it's very original, even the corrosion! I will look for an alternator belt. The alternator housing is original, guts rebuilt, they spoke of it in Nolan Adams book. Just recharged cooling system, it really blows ice cold with the R12 but boy does that compressor pull some horsepower to spin it. My car was built 7/21/64 last day of 64' production. VIN 122152
Thanks guys, it keeps me busy, keeping it up, it's very original, even the corrosion! I will look for an alternator belt. The alternator housing is original, guts rebuilt, they spoke of it in Nolan Adams book. Just recharged cooling system, it really blows ice cold with the R12 but boy does that compressor pull some horsepower to spin it. My car was built 7/21/64 last day of 64' production. VIN 122152
The A6 compressor is rated at 27,000 BTUs at 2000 compressor RPM. That is 2-1/4 tons of refrigeration................many homes up north only have 2-1/2 to 3 ton units for the whole house.
Many car chargers have a fuse in the cigarette lighter plug.... HOWEVER
There are also some bad, dangerous repro cigarette lighter housings...there are other dangers as well prior to '67. Read the JohnZ post (but the picture is gone):
C2 Electrical - help
