jcchevy

I have completed brake, spring and shock work on the rear and noticed that I do have a leak on the pinion seal. I have looked at many videos on replacement of the seal. Very important to mark everything prior to disassembly and ensure it all goes back together the same way and with the marks aligned along with the same number of threads showing on the pinion nut. Also noted that sealer (RTV) should be added to the edge of the seal (going into housing) and along the spines of the yoke. Any other advice that anyone has other than let someone else do it!

solidaxel

Check it often !

There is that fine line between too tight and not tight enough with a already set pinion pre load.
I have "set" the nut but it was on a car I was selling

Plasticman

Before starting to take off the pinion nut, put an inch-pound torque wrench on it (with the rear wheels raised, parking brake off), and determine the torque necessary to keep the wheels rotating. When you get through with the seal replacement, tighten the pinion nut to exactly the same as previously marked, then check that rotating pinion torque. If it is less now, than before, tighten the nut a small additional amount and recheck the torque (and continue tightening in small increments until it matches the "before" amount).

Also, good ideal to put a glob of non-hardening sealer (pipe dope, etc.) under the pinion nut washer, all the way around, to prevent a small gear lube drip coming out down the pinion splines. I am not a fan of RTV on the pinion splines, since it does seal, but cleanup is more difficult if it is needed to be removed later. But if you want to use the RTV instead, I would just put it under the washer, not completely down the splines (getting the flange off later would require a puller, and then a lot of scrubbing the spines on both the pinion and flange).......

And don't forget to lube the seal.

Plasticman