Cam recomendation
10-03-2002, 01:08 PM
#1
Instructor
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Cam recomendation
I have a 65 small block roadster. It was orig a 365 HP but has a non orig 327 from a Camero in it now. I don't know what the comp. ratio is but it has headers, sidepipes, orig alum highrise and a 2818 Holley. I drive the car for fun on nice days. I would like to install a new cam to take advantage of the breathing ability of the carb and headers also I'd like to get some of that Vette HP sound. Is this possible without going to high comp. I want to maintain driveability. Thanks to all.
10-03-2002, 02:09 PM
#2
Safety Car
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Re: Cam recomendation (SMI-FST)
You should try to determine the current comp ratio first.
Was the current engine rebuilt?
If you get the numbers off the block you can get an idea of the original
HP it was used for.
Was the current engine rebuilt?
If you get the numbers off the block you can get an idea of the original
HP it was used for.
10-03-2002, 05:32 PM
#3
Safety Car
Re: Cam recomendation (Crazyhorse)
If it were mine, I'd go with the 365/375 solid lifter cam.
Solid lifters/headers/sidepipes :yesnod:
Some will say go with the LT-1 cam..... it's not as good in the upper RPM's but better at the low end (depends how you plan on driving it....... what gear do you have?)
The 327/350 is a good performer.... but it's a hydro (in fact you may have this cam in there now??)
A friend had a 9:1 engine with the LT-1 cam, headers, it ran well for a low compression motor. (remember the 71-72 LT-1's were only 9, and the real static compression was maybe even lower)
[Modified by 66427-450, 9:48 PM 10/3/2002]
Solid lifters/headers/sidepipes :yesnod:
Some will say go with the LT-1 cam..... it's not as good in the upper RPM's but better at the low end (depends how you plan on driving it....... what gear do you have?)
The 327/350 is a good performer.... but it's a hydro (in fact you may have this cam in there now??)
A friend had a 9:1 engine with the LT-1 cam, headers, it ran well for a low compression motor. (remember the 71-72 LT-1's were only 9, and the real static compression was maybe even lower)
[Modified by 66427-450, 9:48 PM 10/3/2002]
10-03-2002, 06:16 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jan 2002
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C2 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Re: Cam recomendation (SMI-FST)
What heads do you have, what headers (tube size, length), and what side pipes (factory, Hooker)?
What is your budget for this? For about $150 you can do a hydraulic cam swap. But if you want max performance, you might want to look into a roller cam. Cam, lifters, and retrofit kit will run you closer to $600, but allow you to run a more aggressive profile that will have great driveability.
The 327/350 cam is great, with no loss of driveability. But there are other, more modern cams that might be better. I'm sure SWCDuke will chime in soon...
What is your budget for this? For about $150 you can do a hydraulic cam swap. But if you want max performance, you might want to look into a roller cam. Cam, lifters, and retrofit kit will run you closer to $600, but allow you to run a more aggressive profile that will have great driveability.
The 327/350 cam is great, with no loss of driveability. But there are other, more modern cams that might be better. I'm sure SWCDuke will chime in soon...
10-03-2002, 10:12 PM
#5
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Re: Cam recomendation (bcwaller)
An archive check might be in order. This one has been beat to death. I recommend the LT-1 cam for all small block mechanical lifter engine rebuilds and restorations.
Duke
Duke
10-03-2002, 10:41 PM
#6
Re: Cam recomendation (SWCDuke)
"Quote"
"I would like to install a new cam to take advantage of the breathing ability of the carb and headers "
These components (headers/carb) are functions OF the cam. All your power originates in the heads and the cam and compression. The rest is built for either support or strength. I.e.: The carb supports the cam.
First, welcome to the forum. Forgive us but the old "add a cam" syndrome gets beet pretty hard here.
First, all components should be matched for your application so some research is in order. I have run some various simulations on my Desktop Dyno, and it is fairy close to the game and the LT-1 is about the best bang for the street and pump gas. Solid cams are great for the street as well and on my simulations they get an additional 15-20 HP compared to their hydraulic counter parts. People complain about adjusting them, do mine two maybe three times a year. Takes about 2 hours. No big deal. Plus nothing sounds better then a small block winding to 6500 RPM.
Mark
"I would like to install a new cam to take advantage of the breathing ability of the carb and headers "
These components (headers/carb) are functions OF the cam. All your power originates in the heads and the cam and compression. The rest is built for either support or strength. I.e.: The carb supports the cam.
First, welcome to the forum. Forgive us but the old "add a cam" syndrome gets beet pretty hard here.
First, all components should be matched for your application so some research is in order. I have run some various simulations on my Desktop Dyno, and it is fairy close to the game and the LT-1 is about the best bang for the street and pump gas. Solid cams are great for the street as well and on my simulations they get an additional 15-20 HP compared to their hydraulic counter parts. People complain about adjusting them, do mine two maybe three times a year. Takes about 2 hours. No big deal. Plus nothing sounds better then a small block winding to 6500 RPM.
Mark