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From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by GOSFAST
Hi "T", it's at the back above the bellhousing and towards the right side.
The casting number is in the same location but on the left side. Both while looking from the rear of the block.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. This "870" is one of the most popular SB's we get to build for the 100% stock-appearing guys! Here's a couple shots of both.
That second picture is perfect for you to find yours - just below and slightly aft of the base of the distributor, on the same axial position as the serial number, just radially towards the passenger side. It can be harder to see due to the distributor base and ignition shielding being in the way.
A medium telescopic inspection mirror is usually the best way to get to the numbers without having to disturb anything else. Top, rear center of the block just under ignition shielding and very near distributor.
That's why I wasn't able to find it. It's under the distributor. It's really hard to see in there. There is also some caked oil in that spot. I'll see if I can clean it up and find the date. Thanks for the info. I decided I need to find out what this engine came out of and when was it made.
It's in my 65. It was in the car when I bought it in 1983. The block was decked sometime before I got it so the stamp pad is not readable. I am pretty sure it's not the original engine, but it might be. Other numbers I have found on the block are a 17 under the fuel pump. N40 with 944 867 under that. These are on the block in the area of the starter. Some of these numbers are hard to read and may not be what I think they are. So far I know the engine is 1962 to 1967 327 with 2 bolt.
So, I found the block date code but as you can see from the pictures it is useless. I can't decipher any of the letters or numbers in it. I guess I am just going to have to be happy with knowing it's a 1962 to 1967 327 GM engine and that's it.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Well, that sux. You're right, that doesn't help much.
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the last digit might look like a smashed "7", as in 1967.
If you're pretty sure (not sure how) that the engine is not original to the car, and the casting date is buggered up, and you have nothing to lose you might try carefully to grind/file off the casting date to get to undamaged original casting numbers. Maybe.
The other thing is - if the engine is reasonably intact as it was originally assembled, instead of an agglomeration of mismatched parts, the accessory part casting dates may yield clues. Just a stray thought. For example, if the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, water pump, and etc., have reasonably matching dates, it might support a reasonable conclusion as to its origin.
When I bought this car back in 1983 I didn't know squat about Corvettes, matching numbers or anything. I had some extra money and my wife said if I quit smoking I could buy a classic car. When I saw this one I fell in love and bought it. About 5 years later a guy came up to me at a car show and said he used to own my car. He said he used it as a drag car and it had a 454 engine in it with the 2 speed power glide. I think that after they got done with it at the strip they just fixed it up real nice and put a 327 in it. The one that's in there now and sold it. I changed it back to 4 speed a few years back. That's why I think the engine is not original. When I bought it, it also had a holly carb and a different intake. I bought a 1965 intake and Carter carb for it about 30 years ago. Over the years I have had to replace things like water pumps, alternators, etc. Not original but I still like it.
It's pretty buggered up for sure. As a last resort, if you can get in there, take a white grease pencil and light go over the top of the cast. Sometimes it will allow you to see what you want to see (the numbers) and not all of the other garbage around it. It does look like a 7 at the end. Try it. You might be surprised what you can make out. Good luck.
