[C2] 66 Body back on frame problems
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 216
Likes: 1
From: Savannah GA
66 Body back on frame problems
When I put the body back on the frame of my 66 Convertible and tighten down on the frame bolts to factory specs---- the doors will not open? When the bolts a loosley snug but not tighten the lines in the door are perfect and open and close perfectly. But when I tighten to specs, the door binds and will not open. What am I doing wrong? All the body shims were numbered and replace back to original at each location.
Thanks,
Thanks,
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 44,671
Likes: 1,830
From: Huntsville AL
I think you need to try removing shims. Shimming is just a function to ensure all the body mount pads are setting flat on the frame mounts at all locations.
After having the body off the factory shim count is a guide to use not the actual final shim count.
After having the body off the factory shim count is a guide to use not the actual final shim count.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 1,283
From: Horsham Pa
C2 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 724
From: Fountain Hills Arizona
2022 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I like to tighten the firewall mounts first, then the mounts behind the doors. The roadsters use the aluminum spacers at the firewall to create a rigid starting point. You need to work around those four mounting points first and get the body square and tightened down. Also put in the center mount bolt and shims that are under the sill plates. Then go to the rear mounts and shim the rear body up or down to get the door to rear fender gaps adjusted and obviously get the doors to open and shut properly. Then go to the front core support mounts, and adjust those shims as needed to support the nose properly.
This is how I like to do it, I am sure others have a different method, and there are many written articles on how to shim a body. Make sure the car is sitting on the ground on tires and you have rolled it to get the suspension settled.
This is how I like to do it, I am sure others have a different method, and there are many written articles on how to shim a body. Make sure the car is sitting on the ground on tires and you have rolled it to get the suspension settled.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 512
From: Carmel CA
The type of body dolly that you use can have a big influence on the shim count when you put the body back on the frame. The wood dolly that most folks use can allow the body to change if it is left on it for a long period. That is not a big problem, but it can mean that you will need to change the shim count when you re-install the body.
Doc
Doc
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 124
Likes: 19
From: Peoria Arizona
I had the same problem on my 65 roadster. My door gaps were pretty good to start with, so I started tightening the rear mounts first, then proceeded forward checking the doors every time I tightened each mount. All was well until I tightened the #3 mount- (the one under the door sill plate by the hinges). When I tightened those, It closed the gap at the top of the door to where it would touch the rear quarter. Doors would not open. I loosened it, and the gap went back to good again. My fix was to simply put a shim or two under the #3 mounts (can't remember how many) until the doors didn't flex as I tightened the mounts. Hope this helps!
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 78
From: montague michigan
C2 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
I had the same problem on my 65 roadster. My door gaps were pretty good to start with, so I started tightening the rear mounts first, then proceeded forward checking the doors every time I tightened each mount. All was well until I tightened the #3 mount- (the one under the door sill plate by the hinges). When I tightened those, It closed the gap at the top of the door to where it would touch the rear quarter. Doors would not open. I loosened it, and the gap went back to good again. My fix was to simply put a shim or two under the #3 mounts (can't remember how many) until the doors didn't flex as I tightened the mounts. Hope this helps!
the only thing I did different was, that I started at the cowl first where the alum mount is. I tightened those first, then went too the latch post, then to the rear. and finally too the sill. that one was tricky, I ended up installing 2 extra shims there to keep it from sucking in the door gaps. I had all my old shims bagged and used that count as my starting point, I ended up adding 1 shim at every mount other then the sill plate.. I hope this is not confusing too you.. good luck it was not a bad job..troy
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,681
Likes: 3,678
From: Central Arkansas
All was well until I tightened the #3 mount- (the one under the door sill plate by the hinges). When I tightened those, It closed the gap at the top of the door to where it would touch the rear quarter. Doors would not open. I loosened it, and the gap went back to good again. My fix was to simply put a shim or two under the #3 mounts (can't remember how many) until the doors didn't flex as I tightened the mounts. Hope this helps!
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