C1 5 speed
#1
Safety Car
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C1 5 speed
I'm finally ready to change to a 5 speed in our 57. I've never had one, so I'm very much a novice on these. The engine is a 65 fuelie with 4:11 rear end with 205/75-15 tires. I have one quote from Hurst driveline conversion for around $3870 for a TKO600 with a .64 5th gear. Comes with everything but drive shaft. It comes with an 11" clutch package, but I'm not sure I need it for the $300 price tag. My question for you guys, is there a better deal somewhere? If it does require the 11" clutch, does the flywheel matter? Can I use the existing clutch? I've had the car for 8 yrs but never had the tranny out, so I don't know what clutch it has. What do you say?
#2
Team Owner
My Keisler Tremec in the 61 came with a 10-1/2" clutch that was rated higher than most 11". They are no longer in business...and I don't remember the particular details.
You want a new clutch IMO and if the price for the recommended one is only say, $150 over a less expensive $150 clutch are you really that bent up about a few more bucks after shelling out nearly $4K ? Don't you think it wise to go with their entire recommendation so if the SHTF and there is a warranty issue that its all their stuff?
I'm a big fan of "one neck, one noose" in such matters.
You want a new clutch IMO and if the price for the recommended one is only say, $150 over a less expensive $150 clutch are you really that bent up about a few more bucks after shelling out nearly $4K ? Don't you think it wise to go with their entire recommendation so if the SHTF and there is a warranty issue that its all their stuff?
I'm a big fan of "one neck, one noose" in such matters.
#3
Melting Slicks
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I found the TKO conversion kits to be competitively priced. Because many customers make their decision on price the place where kit cost can be cut to remain competitive is the clutch and PP. I also researched the shifter design approach to match our tunnel and felt the Kiesler/SST design superior. I'm a Design engineer so I'm **** about comparing designs. I agree with Frankie. My install cost an extra ~$800 because I hated the base clutch/PP that came standard. So we did the install twice. I also didn't want to take a chance on flywheel issues and bought the matching Centerforce billet flywheel. Last thing I wanted was to pull it a third time. Look closely at how the different TKO conversion suppliers accommodate the stock shifter location. You'll see what I mean. Anyway, don't cheap out on the other components which may detract from the full pleasure of the overdrive. I'm certain if you do it you'll never go back. Be glad to help if I can. Don't select the kit based on price.
#4
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My Keisler Tremec in the 61 came with a 10-1/2" clutch that was rated higher than most 11". They are no longer in business...and I don't remember the particular details.
You want a new clutch IMO and if the price for the recommended one is only say, $150 over a less expensive $150 clutch are you really that bent up about a few more bucks after shelling out nearly $4K ? Don't you think it wise to go with their entire recommendation so if the SHTF and there is a warranty issue that its all their stuff?
I'm a big fan of "one neck, one noose" in such matters.
You want a new clutch IMO and if the price for the recommended one is only say, $150 over a less expensive $150 clutch are you really that bent up about a few more bucks after shelling out nearly $4K ? Don't you think it wise to go with their entire recommendation so if the SHTF and there is a warranty issue that its all their stuff?
I'm a big fan of "one neck, one noose" in such matters.
#5
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I found the TKO conversion kits to be competitively priced. Because many customers make their decision on price the place where kit cost can be cut to remain competitive is the clutch and PP. I also researched the shifter design approach to match our tunnel and felt the Kiesler/SST design superior. I'm a Design engineer so I'm **** about comparing designs. I agree with Frankie. My install cost an extra ~$800 because I hated the base clutch/PP that came standard. So we did the install twice. I also didn't want to take a chance on flywheel issues and bought the matching Centerforce billet flywheel. Last thing I wanted was to pull it a third time. Look closely at how the different TKO conversion suppliers accommodate the stock shifter location. You'll see what I mean. Anyway, don't cheap out on the other components which may detract from the full pleasure of the overdrive. I'm certain if you do it you'll never go back. Be glad to help if I can. Don't select the kit based on price.
#7
Melting Slicks
How well does your clutch hold up now with your 4:11?
You MUST change the disk from the one you have now because of the different spline count, if everything works great now just change the disc
You will love the overdrive as you have the low rear gear, it will make your driving much more pleasent
My daily city driving TKO600 has 74300 miles on it with no faults........ but I do like my 4L60E also !!!
You MUST change the disk from the one you have now because of the different spline count, if everything works great now just change the disc
You will love the overdrive as you have the low rear gear, it will make your driving much more pleasent
My daily city driving TKO600 has 74300 miles on it with no faults........ but I do like my 4L60E also !!!
#8
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I was going to mention that you probably have a coarse spine clutch in the car depending on what trans is currently in the car , so yes you will need at least a new clutch disc. I would also change out the throwout bearing without thinking about it. The TKO's use a fine spline input shaft.
#10
Team Owner
#11
Instructor
The fuelie, 4:11 and .64OD will be a perfect combo. I think you'll like the way the TKO shifts vs. the T10 or Muncie. SST makes an excellent kit (which I have) but I think Hurst has a lower shifter position that would make installation a little easier and allow some more leeway with locating the transmission in the tunnel - its a very tight fit with the trans yoke and the tunnel. As for the clutch, I went with the std 10.5" and it has a very light easy to modulate pedal and absolutely no chatter. Be aware that when you start cruising around at 65-75mph at around 2K rpm the engine noise is very low but you will start noticing other sounds, some nice, some not so good like wind noise through your weatherstipping, differential whine and even a subtle whine from your new tranny.
#12
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Thanks guys. The spline difference makes sense in having to change it. I guess there is no one definitive choice for dealers?
#13
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How well does your clutch hold up now with your 4:11?
You MUST change the disk from the one you have now because of the different spline count, if everything works great now just change the disc
You will love the overdrive as you have the low rear gear, it will make your driving much more pleasent
My daily city driving TKO600 has 74300 miles on it with no faults........ but I do like my 4L60E also !!!
You MUST change the disk from the one you have now because of the different spline count, if everything works great now just change the disc
You will love the overdrive as you have the low rear gear, it will make your driving much more pleasent
My daily city driving TKO600 has 74300 miles on it with no faults........ but I do like my 4L60E also !!!
#14
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I finally pulled the trigger today on the TKO600 5 speed with a .64. It's supposed to ship by Friday from SST in Tennessee. Can't wait to try it out.
#15
Team Owner
It'll transform your car.... You'll be able to cruise at speed, get better mileage and confuse people who look a the shifter plate and see there are 5 speeds
#16
Drifting
Great choice....you will love it , I have had one with the Hurst shifter in my 57 for over 7 years and 15k miles with zero problems. I have the 3.7 rear and cruise at 70 at 2k RPM
#18
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The four speed is out today and the 5 speed should be here tomorrow for a weekend project. For you guys that have done the installation before, is there anything besides cutting the ash tray that I should be aware of? Once in, I have to measure for the drive shaft and notify the company so they can cut it to fit but it won't be here for a week. I'm surprised they don't know what that would be for a stock frame and rear end. Oh well, hopefully next weekend it'll be ready for its maiden voyage.
#19
Team Owner
C1s don't seem to suffer the body sag so much so you shouldn't have to use hockey pucks or the like. The ash tray is a minor issue.
If you are installing by tilting the engine back remove the distributor first. Do a bellhousing runout check to save yourself grief later on and watch the driveshaft opposing angles - they are already near the operational limit on a C1.... I don't know if they still sell the big Spicer U-joints with the kit, but you'll want to make sure they aren't whacking the tranny tunnel when things are rotating.
Decide what fluid you want to use, some say synchromesh, others swear by ATF. Be prepared for some very notchy shifting the first 500 miles until parts wear a bit.
If you are installing by tilting the engine back remove the distributor first. Do a bellhousing runout check to save yourself grief later on and watch the driveshaft opposing angles - they are already near the operational limit on a C1.... I don't know if they still sell the big Spicer U-joints with the kit, but you'll want to make sure they aren't whacking the tranny tunnel when things are rotating.
Decide what fluid you want to use, some say synchromesh, others swear by ATF. Be prepared for some very notchy shifting the first 500 miles until parts wear a bit.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 09-28-2017 at 05:10 PM.
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Geralds57 (09-28-2017)
#20
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C1s don't seem to suffer the body sag so much so you shouldn't have to use hockey pucks or the like. The ash tray is a minor issue.
If you are installing by tilting the engine back remove the distributor first. Do a bellhousing runout check to save yourself grief later on and watch the driveshaft opposing angles - they are already near the operational limit on a C1.... I don't know if they still sell the big Spicer U-joints with the kit, but you'll want to make sure they aren't whacking the tranny tunnel when things are rotating.
Decide what fluid you want to use, some say synchromesh, others swear by ATF. Be prepared for some very notchy shifting the first 500 miles until parts wear a bit.
If you are installing by tilting the engine back remove the distributor first. Do a bellhousing runout check to save yourself grief later on and watch the driveshaft opposing angles - they are already near the operational limit on a C1.... I don't know if they still sell the big Spicer U-joints with the kit, but you'll want to make sure they aren't whacking the tranny tunnel when things are rotating.
Decide what fluid you want to use, some say synchromesh, others swear by ATF. Be prepared for some very notchy shifting the first 500 miles until parts wear a bit.
Last edited by Geralds57; 09-28-2017 at 05:27 PM.