lspencer534

After sitting for only one day, the only way my 327/300 will crank up and run is if I use starter fluid for several times. Then it runs rough for about 30 seconds and finally smooths out. Accelerator pump? Fuel pump? Other? Gasoline is fresh.

Also, it stumbles on acceleration. Same questions as above.

Finally, does anyone sell a big block hood strip decal set? Not a stencil so that the stripe can be painted on, but a stick-on decal. Thanks!

Nowhere Man

when you pump the gas pedal rod do you see gas squirt out? sounds like your carb is draining down. and are you pumping the gas pedal a couple times before trying to start and holding the pedal down?

randy ransome

Sounds like you're on the right track, It's not getting enough gas at start up.

Never seen a decal for the stinger stripe. I'd imagine you could find a business that wraps cars and they could make you one.

R66

Look on the floor for fuel. Smell the air around it. Check for cracked rubber hoses, rusty fuel line, leaks at the fuel pump and wet spots anywhere. Then, put at gauge on the fuel line to the carb and check the pressure, and also check the volume. The carb has to get fuel. Check the accelerator pump shot before you try to start it next time. Also check to see the choke is closed.
Fuel filter plugged could be a problem, but not likely if it runs well after it starts.

Probably a hundred threads on here with the same problem.

bowtyebob

Those symptoms could be caused by a multitude of 'things'. Before you start chasing carb/fuel potential problems do your best to assure that your ignition is not the cause. Check that your points are fresh and that the gap/dwell is correct,. The same for your cap and rotor. Those are cheap and easy to replace. Moisture in the cap can cause a problem like that.
As for the carb, that could be several things as well. Yes, it could be the accelerator pump or even a bad power valve. It could be a small leak in the fuel line to the fuel pump ....not big enough to leak fuel, but possibly suck air and starve the pump.

lspencer534

I've not been smart enough to check that when I first try, but after I've turned the starter multiple times there is gasoline squirting into the primary venturi.

leif.anderson93

And, as a note of caution...stay away from the starting fluid (whatever it is) you're using multiple times. Good way to really mess up your engine.

lspencer534

I've heard that, and I know I'm not doing my starter and battery any good either. But for now it's the only way I can crank the engine; I like to drive it every week. It has only 47K original miles.

Randy G.

If you "like to drive it every week" the best thing to do is get it fixed right instead of trashing your engine by using starting fluid sprays.

bowtyebob

If there is fuel dripping into the primarys from just cranking the engine that sounds like high float level or float valve that is leaking. It might be time to pull the float bowl dontchathink?
I could be a piece of trash in there causing it not to seat.

RatDog

Once you have your car going, do you have problems with subsequent starts?

My car exhibits some of the same behavior as yours if it sits for more than one day. You've probably tried starting this way but, if not, give it a shot: I turn the key on (I have an electric choke), pump twice, turn the key and let the starter go for 4 or 5 seconds. Then I release the key, give two more pumps, and try starting it again with my foot about 1/4 of the way down on the gas. Starts every time that way.

Subsequent starts are instantaneous with my car, even if it isn't warmed up. Turn the key with foot off the gas and it lights up right away. Not even enough time to hear the starter turn.

Steve

lspencer534

Once it's warmed up, subsequent starts are quick and easy, but it has to be warmed up. Mine won't do like yours: If I start it cold and switch it off, I'm right back where I was.

I tried your method of starting: Surprisingly, it tried to run for an instant, but then shut off. Then it wouldn't start without the starter fluid.

colo63sw

The carb on my 63 goes dry after a couple of weeks. I used to dribble gas in the carb to get it to fire and it still took a few false starts etc to get to where the fuel pump got the float bowls full. Now I use a small ‘mustard’ bottle filled with gas and squirt fuel into the air tubes before I begin cranking (in the venturis of a carter carb or the little tube on the top of holleys), that works great.

The carb leaking dry in 1 day is bad and should be fixed.

ghostrider20

You have a carb problem.

Use gasoline to prime your engine, not starting fluid. Use a syringe and just put a few tablespoons down the intake.

Install a new inline fuel filter (if you have one) after the carb rebuild.

colo63sw

I think it is way better squirting a few tablespoons into the air tubes, it fills up the float bowls. Pouring it into the intake will run the engine for less than 2-3 seconds if the bowls are dry. And one needs to do that delicate balance of not quite flooding the engine pouring gas in the intake.

leif.anderson93

Get yourself one of these and kiss your starting problems good bye. Not cheap, but if you enjoy driving your car as often as you say, this pretty much ensures you'll be able to do so.

http://www.specialtypartsdirect.com/...New-_p_24.html

lspencer534

Mine has automatic transmission.

Tonio

Most carburetor problems turn out to be ignition problems. How's your cranking spark look? Points in good shape? Dwell angle within spec?

Nowhere Man

Or he could save what he’s got and have it rebuilt and restored by someone who knows what there doing

SI67

No problem. Carb is the same. Just about EVERY vendor I've seen that has these carbs get this wrong. For the 1966 and 1967 small-block Corvettes, the carb was the same for manual and automatic. I've even pointed this out to them, but nobody has corrected their listing.