kolsen911

On my red Holley pump I hid a small switch in the 12v line as a security device.

59BlueSilver

Bought a toggle switch yesterday

68hemi

Bubba was right in this case. You want it a close to the tank as possible. They are designed to push NOT pull. As others have mentioned there is no need for a relay, they are necessary for 400+ h.p. and to help with fuel perc. Also mounting it with rubber between the pump bracket and attachment point will quite them down. Carter makes one with a built in regulator.

alexandervdr

Hi Franky, not sure I understand..Did you add some sort of pressure regulator to reduce mechanical fuel pump pressure?

rtruman

If you use Eldrobrock Carb they like 7lbs pressure if you use a holly fuel pump they need a regulator you will flood the engine .
The whole idea of using a electric fuel pump is to me problems fire ,hazard has to be located perfectly so it draws correctly and yes some push some pull the gas to me a whole set of new problems to tackle not to mention the clicking noise .

Vettrocious

I replaced my mechanical fuel pump with an in-tank electric pump and a fuel regulator in the engine compartment that can be set to regulate the pressure delivered to the engine. The regulator controls the pressure and sends excess fuel back to the tank in the return line. The pressure is set at the ideal pressure for a Rochester FI system (its easy to set), but it can be used with a carb to do the same thing.

By eliminating the mechanical fuel pump ( which is very hot), and the engine mounted fuel filter and lines, (also a significant source of fuel heating) the fuel reaches the FI inlet without its lines ever contacting the block or getting close to an exhaust manifold, all of which added heat to the fuel. The fuel is thirty degrees cooler than it was previously entering the fuel meter. Percolation in my Rochester is non-existent (or a least not detectable) now and I added air conditioning as well.

The electric fuel pump is not noisy, I've never noticed it.

Mike

FINWOLF

the only time you hear my electric pump is when I turn the key and let it fill the carb. Once the car starts with the side pipes you can hear nothing pumping. I put a switch to turn the pump off to run the carb dry or for an emergency. put the pump through a relay from the key. it is a off the shelf pump cant remember the name 9 to 12 lb and I have a Eldrobrock /carter Carb 650 cfm not a stock motor but never had a problem. the pump is back by the tank.

BADBIRDCAGE

If you are going with an electric pump you can locate it on the rear cross piece in front of the license plate location. This puts it in a location behind the tank and pretty much gravity fed from the sender. I used a piece of brake line tubing and an inline filter between the tank and the pump, then another inline filter between the pump and the supply line going forward to the engine compartment. Low oil pressure cutoff is a good thing. Engine stops, fuel stops.

jim lockwood

I like the way you have the pump mounted in foam rubber which, I assume, is intended to reduce noise. Some questions:

Can you hear the pump from inside your car?

What is the brand and part number of the pump?

Is the foam rubber anything more than water pipe insulation or roll bar padding?

Thanks,
Jim

Frankie the Fink

Negative - those fuel pressure regulators are a PITA...find a pump that shoots the correct pressure for a carb. Avoid the Mr. Gasket blingy regulators with the round **** at all costs. They explode and are a fire hazard!

Frankie the Fink

I am going with a 'booster' pump, switch operated with a one-way valve to stop my occasional vapor lock issue on hot Florida days but haven't installed it yet. No regulator needed!

It will be mounted near the rubber line at the gas tank...

BADBIRDCAGE

Hey Jim.

The pump is a Walbro that I purchased at NAPA. I don’t have the part number. It is a high pressure pump as I was running TPI. The foam wrapping was on the pump as delivered. It wasn’t anything special that I can recall but it was not a high density foam that would crack when clamped like water pipe insulation could.

I could hear the pump on initial pressure build when I turned the key before before starting the car. After that I never heard it running.

Rich

jim lockwood

Thanks Rich. I do like that installation you've done. Looking up Walbro in another window as I type.....

Jim

68hemi

I understand your desire to keep that factory look under the hood with the mechanical pump but I doubt what you have in mind will work. I owned several C2s from 1977-2007 and most of that time was in the Phoenix area of AZ. I have probably done more than most people to remedy this problem. I have done electric mounted at the pump to the mechanical pump, I have gutted the mechanical pump to push through with the electric in an effort to keep that factory appearance under the hood. It did not work. The fuel line from the mechanical pump to the carb on a hot day will heat up enough with the engine compartment temp to perk the fuel. I believe the hot empty body was enough to do it with the gutted pump. The only thing that worked for me was to pressurize the fuel from the tank to the carb. I also had a return line from near the carb to the tank with a "pill" or orifice in that line. Possibly YOU might get away with a gutted mechanical as your ambient temps are not as high as I was dealing with. You would be amazed at how much heat a fuel line can pick up off of the blacktop on a hot day. Add that to any heat picked up from any part of the fuel line running near the exhaust and then the heat from the engine compartment it all adds up. I even wrapped the entire fuel line with insulation once in a quest to cool my 1966 427.

Frankie the Fink

I hear you.

Its almost a car-specific phenomenon. My dual quad '61 sported three different sets of WCFB carbs over the years - NEVER a hint of vapor lock. But the lil ole 250hp 63 will "choke" on rare occasions on hot summer days.

I tried all the usual stuff - insulating fuel lines and this and that....
I've done gobs of research on this frustrating topic.

I checked on multiple hobbyist forums and the booster pump worked in some cases. It was about $50 worth of parts and easily swapped in (or out) so I'll give it a try.

At the bottom of this page is one example of where this fix worked:

https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/Fighting-Vapor-Lock/

HOWEVER, like you I'm skeptical. I'll report back next summer I guess because things will prob be fine until the next Orlando heat wave..

68hemi

I look forward to hearing your outcome and hope it works for you.

alexandervdr

how does this work? EDIT: just saw the link to the explanation in thread # 35, no need to answer

The system uses a return line close to the carb (I assume to release pressure not 'consumed' by the carb? )

Why not simply have an electric fuel pump (correct flow, think about 25 GPH should do for my 350/290hp) and bypass the mechanical pump (said to heat up the fuel)?

Frankie the Fink

No return line. Work thru the flow with the electric pump on and off. It’s 4-1/2 lbs of pressure at all times.
The carb needle valve regulates flow.

alexandervdr

What I understand from the vapour lock document you refer to is that it allows to force hot fuel out of the lines, return it towards the tank, while pushing fresh and cold fuel to the carburator. Am I wrong? And what is accomplished with your set-up?

wilcar

Is your pump mounted sideways? I had two Holley red pumps(both failed) and seem to remember that they are supposed to be mounted vertically. I went with a Carter 4070 pump and have them on my Gto and Ranchero mounted vertically with no problems. Also use a Ford inertia switch on both vehicles.