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Interesting info on oil temp.. On my LS1 (C5) with no oil cooler, it gets up to about 220-230 after about 15 minutes and stays there.. regardless of idle, cruise, etc. (although I've never measured it while drag racing!)
Interesting info on oil temp.. On my LS1 (C5) with no oil cooler, it gets up to about 220-230 after about 15 minutes and stays there.. regardless of idle, cruise, etc. (although I've never measured it while drag racing!)
I had early "flat dash" C4 with digital gauges. It had Z51 which included a tiny oil cooler just above the oil filter. The oil temp was governed with the cooling fans. The coolant temp would climb to 227 degrees when the fan(s) would kick in. This would quickly pull the coolant temp down to around 200 degrees. The oil temp was more tightly controlled, albeit, indirectly by the coolant temp. I don't remember the exact spread, but was always higher than the coolant temp by a good 15 degrees on average. Coolant fan cycling caused a much smaller swing in oil temp which was more sensitive to ambient and driving conditions.
How long between the time that the coolant temp is stabilized and the oil temp levels off with normal driving?
Quite nutes on a 95 degree day.
My engine block config is very different from most, so the disparity will be greater in my case than that of a more conventional setup.
I purposely designed it for lowered intake manifold temps (pegged @ 165 independent of ambient or driving cycle) and oil temps variable between 200 and 240 depending on driving cycle.
Better to ask this of someone with a digital dash C4, Jim Lockwood, Jerry Gollnick or another racer with an accurate gauge.
Last edited by 65tripleblack; Oct 24, 2017 at 03:13 PM.
My engine block config is very different from most, so the disparity will be greater in my case than that of a more conventional setup.
I purposely designed it for lowered intake manifold temps (pegged @ 165 independent of ambient or driving cycle) and oil temps variable between 200 and 240 depending on driving cycle.
Better to ask this of someone with a digital dash C4, Jim Lockwood, Jerry Gollnick or another racer with an accurate gauge.
Is your block coolant lower area half filled with concrete? I thought you mentioned that a while back. I remember many of the Pro Stock blocks got that treatment years ago.
Is your block coolant lower area half filled with concrete? I thought you mentioned that a while back. I remember many of the Pro Stock blocks got that treatment years ago.
Yes its filled to the bottom of the water pump inlets. It takes a lot of load off of the radiator and fan and transfers it to the oil cooler.
Last edited by 65tripleblack; Oct 25, 2017 at 03:21 AM.
I know myself and a couple of other members have confirmed the iron/iron cold-hot settings are pretty much spot on.
In my '69 I'll be running this solid cam in a 512 block, 427 with open chamber heads with what appears to be stock L71 pistons. I called Engle directly and they said to set both int. and exh. to .018" cold and leave it at that. The engine was built by the PO and has never been fired so we'll see what happens.
Is your block coolant lower area half filled with concrete? I thought you mentioned that a while back. I remember many of the Pro Stock blocks got that treatment years ago.
Oil cooling depends more on the lower block water jacket than the upper inch plus the heads, right?
Oil cooling depends more on the lower block water jacket than the upper inch plus the heads, right?
the oil splashing against the water cooled bottom end of the block pulls some heat out of the oil. with no water in the bottom of the block you get no cooling of the oil
the oil splashing against the water cooled bottom end of the block pulls some heat out of the oil. with no water in the bottom of the block you get no cooling of the oil
Absolutely. That's why an oil cooler is needed for a filled block.
My response to Critter (Michael) deals with oil temperature stabilization.
My engine block config is very different from most, so the disparity will be greater in my case than that of a more conventional setup.
I purposely designed it for lowered intake manifold temps (pegged @ 165 independent of ambient or driving cycle) and oil temps variable between 200 and 240 depending on driving cycle.
Better to ask this of someone with a digital dash C4, Jim Lockwood, Jerry Gollnick or another racer with an accurate gauge.
I heard my name.....
When we drove my bride's track car on the street, it would take a good 15 - 20 minutes for the oil temp to completely stabilize. Oil temp (with no cooler) would generally track coolant temp in street driving.
On the track, coolant would stabilize at about 190 while, on hot days, oil temp would head toward 250. With no oil cooler, I wouldn't say the oil temp ever really stabilized.
What's the rule of thumb with aluminum heads? Only set when "hot"? With cold heads on a new build, should they be set a little tighter or looser till it gets hot?
What's the rule of thumb with aluminum heads? Only set when "hot"? With cold heads on a new build, should they be set a little tighter or looser till it gets hot?
Set the lash a few thou tighter to allow for growth of the aluminum as it heats up.
What's the rule of thumb with aluminum heads? Only set when "hot"? With cold heads on a new build, should they be set a little tighter or looser till it gets hot?