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[C2] 1966 corvette with drum brakes?

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Old 02-01-2018, 09:04 PM
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68hemi
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What is the obsession with the term delete? In the case of the 1965 drum brakes it is a credit for a SUBSTITUTIONS of different brakes NOT a delete. There are very few thing on old Corvettes that can be truly and correctly called a delete. It has to be a deletion of something that was standard on the model e.g. as in a heater in some years. Also, a radio was an option and if it did not come with one when new it was not a delete, it simply was not an ordered option.
Old 02-06-2018, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Swept57
I suggest that you post some pics of the car, VIN tag and data tag. Folks here came help you determine what it is.
This is engine code. Do you know how to identify it?
Old 02-06-2018, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ssfarm
This is engine code. Do you know how to identify it?
Engine code “ID” would be a 1966 327 special high performance - in a full size Chevy. It is not a Corvette engine code.
Old 02-07-2018, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ssfarm
I took a trip to Colorado to inspect Vette ( It was my brother in law car ) and the cross member has been cut out to accept a big block. Closer inspection revials that grill was 1964 vintage so some one has combined 66 body with 64 frame. I wonder how much this will impact the overall value of car. I hate to put much money in it if these conditions would severely limit the value of it. Any body have any thoughts?
Why do you want the car? That will answer your own question.

If you want a restored, accurate car for judging, originality or to sell for a large profit, this probably isn't the car for you.

But a '64 frame, a '66 body and a non-Corvette hi-performance 327 will not keep you from cruising and feeling the wind in your hair once it is on the road.

As for how much $$$ it will take to get it driveable, that is the big question and will depend on what shape a lot of the components are in. And the other question is how much of the work can you do, and how much do you want to do yourself? Some guys want something already fixed up. Others enjoy the challenge and fun of doing it themself.

Good luck with it either way.
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Old 02-07-2018, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 68hemi
What is the obsession with the term delete? In the case of the 1965 drum brakes it is a credit for a SUBSTITUTIONS of different brakes NOT a delete. There are very few thing on old Corvettes that can be truly and correctly called a delete. It has to be a deletion of something that was standard on the model e.g. as in a heater in some years. Also, a radio was an option and if it did not come with one when new it was not a delete, it simply was not an ordered option.
Use of the term "delete," no matter how incorrectly, makes one appear to be an automotive expert. Please don't rain on their parade by stating facts.
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Old 02-07-2018, 08:18 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ssfarm
I took a trip to Colorado to inspect Vette ( It was my brother in law car ) and the cross member has been cut out to accept a big block. Closer inspection revials that grill was 1964 vintage so some one has combined 66 body with 64 frame. I wonder how much this will impact the overall value of car. I hate to put much money in it if these conditions would severely limit the value of it. Any body have any thoughts?
SSFARM. you said the frame cross member HAS the cut out for the big block balancer. That is not a '64 frame. It would be '65 or newer. Likely a '66 that goes with the car. I'm not sure of the difference between a '65, '66 or '67.Like some already said the frame serial # would tell the true story.
Old 02-07-2018, 08:51 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by DSR
SSFARM. you said the frame cross member HAS the cut out for the big block balancer. That is not a '64 frame. It would be '65 or newer. Likely a '66 that goes with the car. I'm not sure of the difference between a '65, '66 or '67.Like some already said the frame serial # would tell the true story.
No, go back and read it again. He says the frame HAS BEEN cut out. Big difference, IMHO! It suggests Bubba may have been there and prompts a good look-over to see what else has been done.
Old 02-07-2018, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by tuxnharley
Engine code “ID” would be a 1966 327 special high performance - in a full size Chevy. It is not a Corvette engine code.
Thank you for checking engine code for me. I could not make heads or tails trying to look it up myself. With that said I am positive that engine is not a small block. It is a big block engine, absolutely no question about that. It has 427 badges on fender, it has front frame crossmember cut out to make room for harmonic balancer on front of engine. I was professional mechanic for 5 years and had my own repair shop at my farm for 30 years. I have owned 2 corvettes in the long ago past. A 1968 427 with tri power and a 1972 with 454 so am positive that this is a big block. TI022ID N117718 not sure if i am reading first # correctly
Old 02-07-2018, 10:09 AM
  #29  
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The ID suffix code was used from 66-68 in Full size Chevys for the 427/425 What is the casting number and date
Old 02-07-2018, 10:23 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Railroadman
Why do you want the car? That will answer your own question.

If you want a restored, accurate car for judging, originality or to sell for a large profit, this probably isn't the car for you.

But a '64 frame, a '66 body and a non-Corvette hi-performance 327 will not keep you from cruising and feeling the wind in your hair once it is on the road.

As for how much $$$ it will take to get it driveable, that is the big question and will depend on what shape a lot of the components are in. And the other question is how much of the work can you do, and how much do you want to do yourself? Some guys want something already fixed up. Others enjoy the challenge and fun of doing it themself.

Good luck with it either way.
Railroad man you made several good points. I am not into having car judged at shows, don't want one with perfect finish so that I am afraid to drive it ha ha. Just want to hop in it and remember when I was 23 and had my first vette ( 68 with tri power ). On the other hand since this is obviously not a numbers matching car, should I not worry about correct parts for it or just use most inexpensive parts available. I don't want to save $500 on a part but 20 years down the road when my wife sell car cause I am too feeble to drive, it is now. worth 10 grand less because I tried to save a few bucks. I know most of this is just opinions but wanted to hear others thoughts. My brother in law ( a mechanic ) had owned this 66 vette since mid 70s, he bought it from his brother in law ( a doctor ) who bought it in early 70s both have passed away now. Car has not been driven since early 80s. but drive train and suspension have been completely rebuilt. It is like a puzzle for me to finish car.
Old 02-07-2018, 10:26 AM
  #31  
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My information was taken from the chart on the NastyZ28 web site, where it says that engine code “ID” is a 1966 327 (not 427) “special high performance” engine installed in a full size Chevy. No horsepower rating is listed.

Perhaps thar chart is in error. If so, my apologies.

Edit - the above info was taken from that sites sbc chart. Out of curiosity I went back and checked their bbc chart for ID. It says exactly what Nowhereman posted above - 66 to 68 427/425 in a full size Chevy. Seems like maybe the sbc chart has a glitch?

Last edited by tuxnharley; 02-07-2018 at 10:34 AM.
Old 02-07-2018, 10:35 AM
  #32  
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Default TI022ID N117718 not sure if i am reading first # correctly

Originally Posted by tuxnharley
My information was taken from the chart on the NastyZ28 web site, where it says that engine code “ID” is a 1966 327 (not 427) “special high performance” engine installed in a full size Chevy. No horsepower rating is listed.

Perhaps thar chart is in error. If so, my apologies.
TI022ID N117718 not sure if i am reading first # correctly. Is this the number as you would decipher
?
Old 02-07-2018, 10:41 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ssfarm
I don't want to save $500 on a part but 20 years down the road when my wife sell car cause I am too feeble to drive, it is now. worth 10 grand less because I tried to save a few bucks.
We all see things differently and there is no absolute right answer except what YOU decide.

That said, if it was me, I would want the car for the fun of driving it and putting on the miles and the smiles, now. If 20 years down the road the car is worth zero, so what? I had my fun, I would not be looking at it as an investment for my wife (who actually COULD die before I do) nor as an inheritance for my kids. I would get it driveable and enjoy it for the fun.

Again, that's just me and I am certainly not imposing that view on you.
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Old 02-07-2018, 10:46 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ssfarm
TI022ID N117718 not sure if i am reading first # correctly. Is this the number as you would decipher
?
Since no one has mentioned this I will point out that the N117718 is not a factory stamp, although the T1022ID appears to be.

BTW T1022ID decodes to Tonawanda, October 22nd, ID has been correctly decoded as 427/425 full size Chevrolet.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-07-2018, 10:50 AM
  #35  
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It does have high rise aluminum intake with a shallow after market air breather. Car is in Colorado and I live in Ohio. Had casting picture but cant find them on my phone now and will be a month before I will be in colorado again so maybe this is 427-425hp engine?
Old 02-07-2018, 10:52 AM
  #36  
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Tell us more about the car and asking price. That way we can assess value. Pics VERY helpful.

Ed
Old 02-07-2018, 10:55 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ssfarm
It does have high rise aluminum intake with a shallow after market air breather. Car is in Colorado and I live in Ohio. Had casting picture but cant find them on my phone now and will be a month before I will be in colorado again so maybe this is 427-425hp engine?
Sure sounds like it! As posted by others the casting number would help confirm that.

My apologies for the earlier confusion.
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Old 02-07-2018, 11:06 AM
  #38  
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I sense that there is some uncertainty as to this engine being a BB or a SB. Look at the pipe plug on the head....it's a BB! Dennis
Old 02-07-2018, 11:18 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Mark Lovejoy
Since no one has mentioned this I will point out that the N117718 is not a factory stamp, although the T1022ID appears to be.

BTW T1022ID decodes to Tonawanda, October 22nd, ID has been correctly decoded as 427/425 full size Chevrolet.

Hope this helps.
The 8 looks like it could be original the other part looks like a re builder's
ID or date.
Old 02-07-2018, 11:24 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Brian VH McHale
The 8 looks like it could be original the other part looks like a re builder's
ID or date.
Most other factory’s vin stamp looked sloppy and poor. That looks real


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