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Since no one has mentioned this I will point out that the N117718 is not a factory stamp, although the T1022ID appears to be.
BTW T1022ID decodes to Tonawanda, October 22nd, ID has been correctly decoded as 427/425 full size Chevrolet.
Hope this helps.
I think the N117718 may be Norwood, Ohio and last six vin numbers of the doner motor. It may be a 396 motor from a CAMARO. Check the cast build date on side of block near oil filter will tell you what 427 motor is in the car. Also cast number , under master cylinder. 3869942 is 1966, 3904351 is 1967. 1968 used 3916321 and 3935439 blocks.
The chassis as pointed out may be a 63-64. Original vin number is located on the kick up outside frame rail driver side
Car has 66 vin number, drum brakes chassi with relief cut in front crossmember to accommodate big block engine.suggest that might be a 64 frame. Engine appears to be 427/425 out of full size chevy 66 to 68. Car has not been on road since 82. Has new aftermarket front bumpers that do not have correct bracket to attach to car. Has 66 front grill that won't fit correctly. All suspension and drive train appears to have been rebuilt with new parts. Interior is fair but dash pad has large crack. No seat belts. No Hardtop. Paint is poor with obvious crash repair done to body. Looks like new gas tank that has never had gas in it.Has after market distributor. I had more pictures but can't find them. Car is in another state and will trailer it home when nice weather returns. Wife and sister in law inherited car and would like to have ballpark value for insurance and to settle
1966 with 64 frame?
estate.
Car has 66 vin number, drum brakes chassi with relief cut in front crossmember to accommodate big block engine.suggest that might be a 64 frame. Engine appears to be 427/425 out of full size chevy 66 to 68. Car has not been on road since 82. Has new aftermarket front bumpers that do not have correct bracket to attach to car. Has 66 front grill that won't fit correctly. All suspension and drive train appears to have been rebuilt with new parts. Interior is fair but dash pad has large crack. No seat belts. No Hardtop. Paint is poor with obvious crash repair done to body. Looks like new gas tank that has never had gas in it.Has after market distributor. I had more pictures but can't find them. Car is in another state and will trailer it home when nice weather returns. Wife and sister in law inherited car and would like to have ballpark value for insurance and to settle
1966 with 64 frame?
estate.
VIN and TRIM tag under dash glove box will tell a lot.
Last edited by jimgessner; 02-07-2018 at 12:55 PM.
Since no one has mentioned this I will point out that the N117718 is not a factory stamp, although the T1022ID appears to be.
Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
Most other factory’s vin stamp looked sloppy and poor. That looks real
The N117718 looks typical of a factory VIN stamp, from a plant other than the St. Louis Corvette plant.
Starting in 1960, all Corvette blocks and transmissions, received a VIN stamp. Unlike the Corvette, most other Chevrolet lines didn't use a block VIN stamp until 1968, when it became Federal law. The exception was high performance engines, which usually got a VIN stamp.
Since St. Louis was stamping every block, they used a gang holder to stamp the VIN, and Corvette VIN's normally look somewhat uniform. At plants building other Chevrolets, very few engines were being VIN stamped, so they were normally stamped by hand, and were often quite sloppy looking, just like the one on the OP's pad.
The "ID" suffix code indicates a 66-68 427/425, in a full size Chevrolet. The "N" in the VIN stamp is the Norwood Ohio assembly plant. Norwood built full size Chevrolet's, up till 1966. Starting in 67, Norwood built Camaro's. So I'd say that the engine in the car the OP is looking at, is out of a 1966 full size Chevrolet.
Thanks for input, not for sale and we will keep it and put back on road as way of honoring my brother in law. He was a good guy and sad that he never completed this car. he had owned it since mid 70s.
Wife and sister in law inherited car and would like to have ballpark value for insurance and to settle
estate.
I'm not an ardent student of values but I think $25k is too high. As it sits I would say more like $20k - and that would have to be somebody who wants a street rod or wants a body to build a custom chassis car. Get it to running condition and brakes/steering/lights in good order and then maybe $25k.
I'm not an ardent student of values but I think $25k is too high. As it sits I would say more like $20k - and that would have to be somebody who wants a street rod or wants a body to build a custom chassis car. Get it to running condition and brakes/steering/lights in good order and then maybe $25k.
I'll throw this out there if that 427 is complete with all the CORRECT parts from the 66 Impala its worth at least 10K as is.
I'll throw this out there if that 427 is complete with all the CORRECT parts from the 66 Impala its worth at least 10K as is.
I would agree that is possible but we don't know what it is for sure anymore. Missing correct distributor/carb/exhaust manifolds (Vette manifolds aren't correct) and needing to be gone through completely, could be a $5k core for a rebuild.
But I would also say that it's possibly worth more parted out (65 body, 64 frame, 66 engine) than as a complete, non-running garage ornament.
I would agree that is possible but we don't know what it is for sure anymore. Missing correct distributor/carb/exhaust manifolds (Vette manifolds aren't correct) and needing to be gone through completely, could be a $5k core for a rebuild.
But I would also say that it's possibly worth more parted out (65 body, 64 frame, 66 engine) than as a complete, non-running garage ornament.
Every thing is a BIG IF. Until someone with knowledge can look over the car.
I would agree that is possible but we don't know what it is for sure anymore. Missing correct distributor/carb/exhaust manifolds (Vette manifolds aren't correct) and needing to be gone through completely, could be a $5k core for a rebuild.
But I would also say that it's possibly worth more parted out (65 body, 64 frame, 66 engine) than as a complete, non-running garage ornament.
I helped a friend in Fresno, California sell his 66 convert in 2013. The car still had the original 427/390 motor. He bought the car in 1969 from a used car dealer and it was painted dark Laguna blue with blue interior. Seats were covered in cloth. We discovered it had a complete front clip from an after market company and originally was a yellow with black vinyl car per trim tag.
The seller was a good mechanic and had enjoyed the car over 44 years. He had no idea about motor numbers, paint and trim tags and original history. He sold the car for $45000 to a Utah buyer who owned a body shop and flew to Fresno and drove it home. He and his son restored the car back to TOP FLIGHT condition.
So when you get time, take a good look and get help with a Corvette guy to inspect close. Take many photos and we can help here.
I helped a friend in Fresno, California sell his 66 convert in 2013. The car still had the original 427/390 motor. He bought the car in 1969 from a used car dealer and it was painted dark Laguna blue with blue interior. Seats were covered in cloth. We discovered it had a complete front clip from an after market company and originally was a yellow with black vinyl car per trim tag.
The seller was a good mechanic and had enjoyed the car over 44 years. He had no idea about motor numbers, paint and trim tags and original history. He sold the car for $45000 to a Utah buyer who owned a body shop and flew to Fresno and drove it home. He and his son restored the car back to TOP FLIGHT condition.
So when you get time, take a good look and get help with a Corvette guy to inspect close. Take many photos and we can help here.
I have owned 2 corvettes before, a 68 and 72. I don't want to sell it nor do I want to restore it to national show quality and then try and sell it for top dollar. Really just wanted Idea what present value was before I started fixing it to drive again and what route to take to fix it up. I will do all mechanical work. I don't do paint or body work and might not have it done anyway. I know people who had expensive classic car paint jobs and then are afraid to drive it so as not to get a paint chip! Car appears to be a conglomerate of parts already so I assume it could never be more than 50% value of top flight numbers matching car no matter how nice I would fix it up. So from this point on does it make any difference to use what ever parts are cheapest. For example front bumpers need to be put back on. I have bolt bin in shop with new 7/16 every size grade 5 bolts. I can buy a bolt package with "correct bolts" for about $40 or I can just use new bolts from my bolt bin. I don't think using correct bolts will increase value of car more than just regulars bolts for this particular car. I know most of this is just opinion and just wanted peoples thoughts. I think I did a poor job of explaining myself. I want to drive this car, to feel it slam me back in the seat like it did 30 years ago when I would go to the local drag strip ha ha I would not want to disassemble car for maximum profit but on other hand while buying parts for car I don't want to save $200 and it lowers price of car 20 years from now by $10,000. I really appreciate everyone who takes time to express their opinions and to discuss cars. So many internet sites that have trolls who have no idea what they are talking about and live to insult other people.
IMO - anything you do to the car, I would do with good quality, original-type parts (meaning repro/quality replacement/clean, serviceable used parts) and try not to deviate off into the hot rod, rat rod theme with rubber fuel lines, mis-fitting air cleaners, funky upholstery, 80s era custom wheels, etc. Just get it in good running condition with everything working and running safe is worth a lot.
Most of my comments about the value are from the standpoint that I see no reason to artificially inflate the value or go for a high-side value to assign to the car for probate, licensing, tax's, or insurance purposes. Once you get it cleaned up and running good and looking respectable and if you think it's value is a little higher at that point, then you can always raise the insurance coverage on it.
IMO - anything you do to the car, I would do with good quality, original-type parts (meaning repro/quality replacement/clean, serviceable used parts) and try not to deviate off into the hot rod, rat rod theme with rubber fuel lines, mis-fitting air cleaners, funky upholstery, 80s era custom wheels, etc. Just get it in good running condition with everything working and running safe is worth a lot.
Most of my comments about the value are from the standpoint that I see no reason to artificially inflate the value or go for a high-side value to assign to the car for probate, licensing, tax's, or insurance purposes. Once you get it cleaned up and running good and looking respectable and if you think it's value is a little higher at that point, then you can always raise the insurance coverage on it.
Nice looking car with an Impala L-72 no less!
Convert it to a stock style disc brake car. Easy and not overly expensive. The rear travel limit bumpers has to be modified, small welding job.
Clean up the crossmember cut if needed and the chassis will look like a 65-66. Stock 66 BB hood to complete the exterior.
Enjoy the car and fix what turns up while you decide if you want to complete the BB cloning (I assume the body also originally from a SB car) or what.
Convert it to a stock style disc brake car. Easy and not overly expensive. The rear travel limit bumpers has to be modified, small welding job.
Clean up the crossmember cut if needed and the chassis will look like a 65-66. Stock 66 BB hood to complete the exterior.
Enjoy the car and fix what turns up while you decide if you want to complete the BB cloning (I assume the body also originally from a SB car) or what.
Sorry, put my contribution in the wrong post but you get the message.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
I think your bolt example is a good one. A good grade 5 bolt from your bin will work just as well as the $40 "perfect" ones. If you are going to drive it and enjoy it, in your 20-years-from-now scenario, whatever bolts you put on today will probably get replaced after that anyway. As long as you are not doing irreversible damage to something, if your goal is to drive it and enjoy it, think safety first, reliability second, and the hell with the rest of it.
Sorry, put my contribution in the wrong post but you get the message.
I had thought of just converting chassis to correct disc brakes for 66. Car has 66 vin and is titled 66. Apparently after crash someone put 64 or earlier frame under body. It has a big block hood. I just assumed that original 66 vin was big block
Any way to look up 66 vin # and tell what original engine was?
I had thought of just converting chassis to correct disc brakes for 66. Car has 66 vin and is titled 66. Apparently after crash someone put 64 or earlier frame under body. It has a big block hood. I just assumed that original 66 vin was big block
Any way to look up 66 vin # and tell what original engine was?
Nope. There is no correlation between the VIN (or the trim tag) and the original engine. You would need to have some original documentation for the car to determine that - protect o plate, dealers invioce, bill of sale, etc.
Nope. There is no correlation between the VIN (or the trim tag) and the original engine. You would need to have some original documentation for the car to determine that - protect o plate, dealers invioce, bill of sale, etc.
Car has been previously owned by 2 brother in laws since early 70s but both are deceased now and no remaining family members know any details. I was not part of family till 10 years ago so have little info other that was told by last brother in law that it was a 66 with a 64 frame
02-07-2018, 12:20 PM
The N117718 looks typical of a factory VIN stamp, from a plant other than the St. Louis Corvette plant.
