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[C2] Harmonic Balancer remove Help.

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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 06:12 PM
  #21  
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Just for laughs, run your finger in the hole and make sure someone hasn't welded the hub to the crank before you break another puller.
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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 06:19 PM
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Mike he didn’t say if he used a impact or only used a ratchet. The first time I pulled my ballencer on my 396 Dad stood behind me and laughed why I tried with a ratchet. After I gave up he handed me the impact and it was off in the less then minute
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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
Mike he didn’t say if he used a impact or only used a ratchet. The first time I pulled my ballencer on my 396 Dad stood behind me and laughed why I tried with a ratchet. After I gave up he handed me the impact and it was off in the less then minute
True but he didn't say if he thumped the center bolt with a two pounder either. With the center bolt tight and a whack with a two pounder, that will usually jar them loose. I'd suggest he use at least a 14"-16" breaker bar in lieu of an impact.

Last edited by MikeM; Dec 27, 2017 at 06:25 PM.
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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 06:57 PM
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I'll help you pull a balancer off with an impact with your puller. On mine I'm using hand tools.
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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
True but he didn't say if he thumped the center bolt with a two pounder either. With the center bolt tight and a whack with a two pounder, that will usually jar them loose. I'd suggest he use at least a 14"-16" breaker bar in lieu of an impact.
Gee, sounds exactly like what I said about 8 posts ago. USE THE FORCE LUKE.....
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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert61
I'll help you pull a balancer off with an impact with your puller. On mine I'm using hand tools.
It was a 40 year old snap on puller. And it was a 3/8 impact. Worked like a charm. It’s the hammering action that helps. If you use a two pound sledge like Mike suggest hand tools would work. I’m just telling my experance. Your results may vary
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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 07:17 PM
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Impacts are rough in threads. Just sayin
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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert61
Impacts are rough in threads. Just sayin
That’s why all auto manufactures use them doing assembly and the threads you would be messing up are on the puller
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Old Dec 27, 2017 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
It was a 40 year old snap on puller. And it was a 3/8 impact. Worked like a charm. It’s the hammering action that helps. If you use a two pound sledge like Mike suggest hand tools would work. I’m just telling my experance. Your results may vary
Used both impact and a 4lb. sledge. Still didn't help. And it's not welded. Will try again tomorrow when I get another puller.
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Kerrmudgeon
Gee, sounds exactly like what I said about 8 posts ago. USE THE FORCE LUKE.....
But you were late to the party. See post #7.

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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by prestige6
Okay I went and got Loctite freeze and release. Got a Snap On Removable tool. Sprayed the Loctite on installed tool, whacked a few times with sledge. STILL will not budge. Tried this a couple of times. Bolt is out. Will not come off....
Can you confirm for us you have BOTH the bolt AND the heavy washer in your hand BEFORE you install the puller? Bill
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 12:44 PM
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Default Balancer removal

Okay, went and got loctite freeze and release, Borrowed a Snap-on puller. Bolt and washer are out. sprayed the freeze and release on waited smacked with sledge. Will not Budge. Tried a couple of times. Still won't budge.. Picture attached of pulley. See bolt and washer on top of pulley.
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 01:08 PM
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Ok, looks ready to pull. It could be a previous owner put Locktite on the crank snout before installing the balancer. In any event, there is a lot of surface area around the crank snout to freeze with rust. Install your Snap-on puller plate with grade 5 or 8 bolts long enough to thread nearly thru the balancer. You want the puller plate to be flush with the front face of the balancer. Lube the puller screw bolt as you are gonna put a ton of torque on it. I put a dab of grease on the pointed tip end of the puller and grease the shaft of the pointed tip before inserting in the puller screw. Then torque it down with a 1/2" impact as tight as it will go. Take a brass hammer and smack the end of the puller screw 3-4 times, then impact it down some more. It might only move 1/8" turn each time, but any movement is good and eventually you will break it free. It might take 6 or 8 tries like this before it lets go. Bill

ps ... I would not recommend you use heat or hammer the balancer until you have done everything above. Heat would be a last resort but it will destroy the seal between the inner and outer rings and you will need to toss the balancer.
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by NightshiftHD
Ok, looks ready to pull. It could be a previous owner put Locktite on the crank snout before installing the balancer. In any event, there is a lot of surface area around the crank snout to freeze with rust. Install your Snap-on puller plate with grade 5 or 8 bolts long enough to thread nearly thru the balancer. You want the puller plate to be flush with the front face of the balancer. Lube the puller screw bolt as you are gonna put a ton of torque on it. I put a dab of grease on the pointed tip end of the puller and grease the shaft of the pointed tip before inserting in the puller screw. Then torque it down with a 1/2" impact as tight as it will go. Take a brass hammer and smack the end of the puller screw 3-4 times, then impact it down some more. It might only move 1/8" turn each time, but any movement is good and eventually you will break it free. It might take 6 or 8 tries like this before it lets go. Bill

ps ... I would not recommend you use heat or hammer the balancer until you have done everything above. Heat would be a last resort but it will destroy the seal between the inner and outer rings and you will need to toss the balancer.
I'm going to keep trying. If it fails to come off, I'll buy another balancer and cover. This engine runs perfect, I don't want to screw it up. Would like to sell it when I'm all done with the swap.
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 04:23 PM
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Looks like you still have another washer in the hole. Or is this the hole you are looking at?
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Last edited by MikeM; Dec 28, 2017 at 04:28 PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 04:29 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Looks like you still have another washer in the hole.
No washer in the hole. But finally got it off. Took a 1/2 inch Breaker bar, with a 4 foot cheater bar and blocked the Crank with a 2x4. Laid into it and it finally let loose. Hong onto the last thread. Now I can switch all the parts over and ready for installation... Thanks for all your help guys.
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Looks like you still have another washer in the hole. Or is this the hole you are looking at?
No, he has the washer out. I can see the end of the crank shaft.
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Old Dec 28, 2017 | 04:31 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by prestige6
No washer in the hole. But finally got it off. Took a 1/2 inch Breaker bar, with a 4 foot cheater bar and blocked the Crank with a 2x4. Laid into it and it finally let loose. Hong onto the last thread. Now I can switch all the parts over and ready for installation... Thanks for all your help guys.
Excellent. Some are easy and as you found out some are very stuck. Bill
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 12:05 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by prestige6
No washer in the hole. But finally got it off. Took a 1/2 inch Breaker bar, with a 4 foot cheater bar and blocked the Crank with a 2x4. Laid into it and it finally let loose. Hong onto the last thread. Now I can switch all the parts over and ready for installation... Thanks for all your help guys.
Good for you. Glad to read it's off. Don't know what you mean by Hong onto the last thread though. Doesn't really matter now either so congratulations.
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 08:32 PM
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Glad it came off for you, mine came right off thank god, My engine builder took 1 look at it & said he was sending it out to be redone/rebalanced, as it had slipped at some point over the past 53 years. Not sure what that cost, but it would allow you to keep your original part, but in new condition again. My 365hp balancer is available for $399 from various suppliers, and having it redone was much less he had said.

Last edited by Rob_64-365; Dec 29, 2017 at 08:48 PM.
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