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I have a 1966 327/300 Powerglide w/ AC.(all seals in place), stock 5 blade with fan clutch, 10 year old Dewitt, 180 thermo, timing set as per JohnZ.
Never any problems until heavy traffic with AC on.
I have a 1966 327/300 Powerglide w/ AC.(all seals in place), stock 5 blade with fan clutch, 10 year old Dewitt, 180 thermo, timing set as per JohnZ.
Never any problems until heavy traffic with AC on.
EXACTLY and that is what most people don't get here. They were never engineered to sit and idle in slow moving traffic. Back in the day there were very few big cities in our country that would create this problem. Most were one car families and the car often stayed home and people walked, took the bus or subway to work. Today we are two, three or more vehicle families and living in much more congested areas.
It is normal people for these cars to warm up and overheat under these conditions.
EXACTLY and that is what most people don't get here. They were never engineered to sit and idle in slow moving traffic. Back in the day there were very few big cities in our country that would create this problem. Most were one car families and the car often stayed home and people walked, took the bus or subway to work. Today we are two, three or more vehicle families and living in much more congested areas.
It is normal people for these cars to warm up and overheat under these conditions.
I have a 1966 327/300 Powerglide w/ AC.(all seals in place), stock 5 blade with fan clutch, 10 year old Dewitt, 180 thermo, timing set as per JohnZ.
Never any problems until heavy traffic with AC on.
Ditto, with my car is exactly the same, and with the same problem with AC on with traffic, and temps 90 degrees outside. Tried a little of everything! Unfortunately, I just have to turn the AC off in heavy traffic.
With all that said about AC equipped cars, I'm sure they were engineered to run in the safe (green?) zone on the dash gauge. Probably why the gauge markings were changed in 1966(?).
If your engine or you doesn't like running that hot, an electric puller fan would likely solve any and all problems assuming you get one that is engineered for your application.
With all that said about AC equipped cars, I'm sure they were engineered to run in the safe (green?) zone on the dash gauge. Probably why the gauge markings were changed in 1966(?).
"If your engine or you doesn't like running that hot, an electric puller fan would likely solve any and all problems assuming you get one that is engineered for your application.
"
That seems to be the solution that everyone agrees on, but I have an NCRS car, and do not want to go that route.
.. but I have an NCRS car, and do not want to go that route.
I am unsure what a ncrs car is but if being an ncrs car somehow prevents you from turning your AC on, it would seem you have several options.
Put the electric fan on and take it off if you're looking to present it for originality somewhere.
Put the electric fan on and leave it on and never mind the demerits from whomever.................
Leave it like it is as long as it doesn't boil over on you or start vapor locking
Sweat
I have a '65, 327. A few years ago, the Barr's no longer would stop the radiator leaks of the rotten OEM radiator. I bought a used copper radiator and stuck in the car and used it with the original clutch on the clutch fan. 4* timing and the vac advance works. Temperature at idle in stop/go, 90*+ temperatures and the temp tops out at 210*. Runs warmer than I like but certainly not real hot.
Besides, when it's that hot, I stay inside anyway.
I am unsure what a ncrs car is but if being an ncrs car somehow prevents you from turning your AC on, it would seem you have several options.
Put the electric fan on and take it off if you're looking to present it for originality somewhere.
Put the electric fan on and leave it on and never mind the demerits from whomever.................
Leave it like it is as long as it doesn't boil over on you or start vapor locking
Sweat
I have a '65, 327. A few years ago, the Barr's no longer would stop the radiator leaks of the rotten OEM radiator. I bought a used copper radiator and stuck in the car and used it with the original clutch on the clutch fan. 4* timing and the vac advance works. Temperature at idle in stop/go, 90*+ temperatures and the temp tops out at 210*. Runs warmer than I like but certainly not real hot.
Besides, when it's that hot, I stay inside anyway.
Getting ready to check the fan clutch and the timing one more time. And I shut the AC off rather than toast a motor.
I added a repro rubber seal piece at the top of the radiator area....didnt come on my model, but it did come on others. Held on by clips and is visible at the left of this picture. Been 10 years since I put it on, but I recall having to do a little bit of simple trimming to have it fit and sit right. I also put in a new DeWitts radiator at the same time....you can also try removing the license plate in the center of your grill to help air flow if you really need it. I used every little trick I could find to help and it all has worked great ever since.
01-15-2018, 06:25 PM
