Roller Cams
Racer
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 425
Likes: 32
From: richmond virginia
I can tell you that I installed a Lunati Voodoo roller, springs and lifters in my 396 3855962 block with stock L78 heads, Speedpro 10.5-1 pistons (that's the c.r. measured by cc), roller rockers, stock Winters intake and a 750 CFM Holley and made 463 horsepower on the dyno. So, I really like the roller cam.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 658
From: Virginia Beach VA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
C2 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Everything is done but the 8 inch damper does not clear the Cloyes timing chain cover’s lower screws. A smaller diameter damper will clear the screws. I am going to the shop this morning to discuss a solution but in my opinion the 7.1 inch ATI damper that Zip sells as a replacement for the oem 8 inch is the best option. I’ll just drive over to Zip and we should have the engine running this afternoon.
Another issue may be the water pump not clearing the cover. I have read it is real close but fits.
I plan to dyno the car in the near future. There is an exhaust problem I want to fix before the dyno.
Another issue may be the water pump not clearing the cover. I have read it is real close but fits.
I plan to dyno the car in the near future. There is an exhaust problem I want to fix before the dyno.
Last edited by MarkC; Apr 23, 2018 at 06:42 AM.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 481
Likes: 109
From: Monrovia MD
Everything is done but the 8 inch damper does not clear the Cloyes timing chain cover’s lower screws. A smaller diameter damper will clear the screws. I am going to the shop this morning to discuss a solution but in my opinion the 7.1 inch ATI damper that Zip sells as a replacement for the oem 8 inch is the best option. I’ll just drive over to Zip and we should have the engine running this afternoon.
Another issue may be the water pump not clearing the cover. I have read it is real close but fits.
I plan to dyno the car in the near future. There is an exhaust problem I want to fix before the dyno.
Another issue may be the water pump not clearing the cover. I have read it is real close but fits.
I plan to dyno the car in the near future. There is an exhaust problem I want to fix before the dyno.
Last edited by Drothgeb; Apr 23, 2018 at 09:11 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 658
From: Virginia Beach VA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
C2 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I did not consider machining the block as the engine would have to be removed from the car. The shop I am using has used this Cloyes cover several times and recommended it. I just returned from Zip with the ATI damper and the shop was replacing several bolts on the back of the pump with lower profile bolts. They should get it started this afternoon but it’s starting to look like I will not get it back until tomorrow. We have a storm rolling in tonight so it may be Wednesday before I get it home. That’s assuming we have no more issues.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 481
Likes: 109
From: Monrovia MD
I did not consider machining the block as the engine would have to be removed from the car. The shop I am using has used this Cloyes cover several times and recommended it. I just returned from Zip with the ATI damper and the shop was replacing several bolts on the back of the pump with lower profile bolts. They should get it started this afternoon but it’s starting to look like I will not get it back until tomorrow. We have a storm rolling in tonight so it may be Wednesday before I get it home. That’s assuming we have no more issues.
One of my next projects is to make a fixture for drilling the block by hand for the thrust plate. If that doesn’t work out, I’ll be going your route.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 658
From: Virginia Beach VA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
C2 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
We didn’t start it yesterday. The new damper is on and all the pulleys line up. The water pump is on and we have a small clearance. The plan was to start it this morning and do the 30 minute break in for the lifters and then change the oil. Keeping fingers crossed that we have no leaks.
The shop also fixed an issue I have had with the steering. I have Steeroids R & P and after about 15K miles the upper U joint got a little sloppy. I had them shorten the shaft 1 inch and I put new U joints in. The angle is much better now.
I have also decided to put the oil filter conversion kit on after we do the break in. I picked up that 2 quart Napa gold filter that Frankie recommends.
I will not bring the car home today. It has just started raining and the rain will continue until tomorrow. Maybe tomorrow afternoon.
The shop also fixed an issue I have had with the steering. I have Steeroids R & P and after about 15K miles the upper U joint got a little sloppy. I had them shorten the shaft 1 inch and I put new U joints in. The angle is much better now.
I have also decided to put the oil filter conversion kit on after we do the break in. I picked up that 2 quart Napa gold filter that Frankie recommends.
I will not bring the car home today. It has just started raining and the rain will continue until tomorrow. Maybe tomorrow afternoon.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 658
From: Virginia Beach VA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
C2 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
It started right up this morning and we ran it for about 20 minutes. There is still several items that have to be put back and I have a leaking fan clutch.
I have checked Napa and O’reilys and also Hayden. I know Frankie likes Hayden. Are there any other recommendations on a fan clutch?
I may just leave the car there for a few days with this weather.
I have checked Napa and O’reilys and also Hayden. I know Frankie likes Hayden. Are there any other recommendations on a fan clutch?
I may just leave the car there for a few days with this weather.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 658
From: Virginia Beach VA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
C2 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
We got the new clutch fan on yesterday and the car is ready to go. I didn’t bring it home yesterday due to the weather. I am getting the car this morning and plan to drive it most of the day. I am also removing the hardtop this morning for some topless driving.
The plan is to fix an minor exhaust problem next week and then get it on the dyno.
The plan is to fix an minor exhaust problem next week and then get it on the dyno.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,570
Likes: 1,126
From: Huntsville AL & Hills of Southern TN
Been following this with interest regarding roller durability. Can’t speak to that.... yet. But do have some hp gain data. On my L72 I replaced bottom end with top of the line forged parts, no hp gain from that. Used stock L72 intake and 3247 Holley, no hp gain from that. Installed a Comp Cam roller, Brodie Race Rite Heads, and steel roller rockers. So all hp improvements came from cam, heads, and .70 over to clean bores. On dyno it has ~500 ft-lbs starting at 2100 and pretty flat until starting to slowly drop at about 6200 where it’s putting out 560 hp. If a healthy stock L72 puts out about ~450-460 @ 6500 then the difference in my engine is from the heads and cam. I’m about a month from driving it. Can’t wait.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,171
Likes: 335
From: Homewood Alabama
I used the cam in the picture below in a 327 recently with 2.2/1.6 valves and 10.2:1 compression ratio. It has a nice lumpy idle at 800rpm and good power off the line and throughout the rpm range. The lifters are a little noisy when cold(sound mechanical), but that fades once the oil warms up.
Compression is your friend! I installed AFR heads on a 64 327 with a roller cam as well, but it had flat top pistons, making around 9.5:1 compression ratio if i remember correctly, and it does not have anywhere near the power of the 327 with the 10.2:1 compression ratio with the stock heads.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,171
Likes: 335
From: Homewood Alabama
I used a stock cover with a roller button and had no issues. In another engine, i welded a small metal plate to the back of the timing cover to reinforce it and I did not have any fitment issues with that timing cover either.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 658
From: Virginia Beach VA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
C2 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I picked the car up about 9:30 and brought it home. I removed the hardtop and cleaned the car up. It was cloudy then and about 60 degrees. I left on a drive down to the south end of Virginia Beach and over to Chesapeake. I did about 80 Miles.
The idle is smoother at 700 rpm’s than the 268H that was removed. The valve train noise is a non issue. The engine pulls strong to 6500 and I bumped up to 6800 one time. There is a noticeable difference in the power and yet the idle characteristics are better. When I got home the temps are in the high 60’s and the a/c works much better with this cam at idle. I am extremely pleased with the results. IMO, these heads are a great value for the money. I painted them Chevy orange so there is no difference in the appearance. I am out of town this weekend so I will not be back in the car till Monday. I have an obstruction in both exhaust pipes a few inches down from the manifold which I am going to fix next week. After an oil change and the exhaust fix we’ll get it on the dyno.
We also shortened the steering shaft one inch and replaced the steering u joints. The steering is perfect now. I have Steeroids R & P.
The idle is smoother at 700 rpm’s than the 268H that was removed. The valve train noise is a non issue. The engine pulls strong to 6500 and I bumped up to 6800 one time. There is a noticeable difference in the power and yet the idle characteristics are better. When I got home the temps are in the high 60’s and the a/c works much better with this cam at idle. I am extremely pleased with the results. IMO, these heads are a great value for the money. I painted them Chevy orange so there is no difference in the appearance. I am out of town this weekend so I will not be back in the car till Monday. I have an obstruction in both exhaust pipes a few inches down from the manifold which I am going to fix next week. After an oil change and the exhaust fix we’ll get it on the dyno.
We also shortened the steering shaft one inch and replaced the steering u joints. The steering is perfect now. I have Steeroids R & P.
Last edited by MarkC; Apr 26, 2018 at 02:12 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,105
Likes: 2,367
From: Allison Park, PA
I picked the car up about 9:30 and brought it home. I removed the hardtop and cleaned the car up. It was cloudy then and about 60 degrees. I left on a drive down to the south end of Virginia Beach and over to Chesapeake. I did about 80 Miles.
The idle is smoother at 700 rpm’s than the 268H that was removed. The valve train noise is a non issue. The engine pulls strong to 6500 and I bumped up to 6800 one time. There is a noticeable difference in the power and yet the idle characteristics are better. When I got home the temps are in the high 60’s and the a/c works much better with this cam at idle. I am extremely pleased with the results. IMO, these heads are a great value for the money. I painted them Chevy orange so there is no difference in the appearance. I am out of town this weekend so I will not be back in the car till Monday. I have an obstruction in both exhaust pipes a few inches down from the manifold which I am going to fix next week. After an oil change and the exhaust fix we’ll get it on the dyno.
We also shortened the steering shaft one inch and replaced the steering u joints. The steering is perfect now. I have Steeroids R & P.
The idle is smoother at 700 rpm’s than the 268H that was removed. The valve train noise is a non issue. The engine pulls strong to 6500 and I bumped up to 6800 one time. There is a noticeable difference in the power and yet the idle characteristics are better. When I got home the temps are in the high 60’s and the a/c works much better with this cam at idle. I am extremely pleased with the results. IMO, these heads are a great value for the money. I painted them Chevy orange so there is no difference in the appearance. I am out of town this weekend so I will not be back in the car till Monday. I have an obstruction in both exhaust pipes a few inches down from the manifold which I am going to fix next week. After an oil change and the exhaust fix we’ll get it on the dyno.
We also shortened the steering shaft one inch and replaced the steering u joints. The steering is perfect now. I have Steeroids R & P.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 658
From: Virginia Beach VA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
C2 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Update, I have about 120 miles on the car since I picked it up. The exhaust obstruction was fixed yesterday and I fixed the throttle linkage so the carb will open 100% this morning. I am very pleased with the performance of this engine. The bad news is I can’t get it on the dyno until next week. I plan to drive it over the weekend so I may have 200-250 miles on it by dyno day.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 138
From: Clinton Township MI
Cruise-In III Veteran
MarkC,
Been a lurker on this project of yours. Glad you've got her sorted out! Really looking forward to the result of your dyno session.
Congratulations!!
Jim
In God W Trust!
Been a lurker on this project of yours. Glad you've got her sorted out! Really looking forward to the result of your dyno session.
Congratulations!!
Jim
In God W Trust!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 658
From: Virginia Beach VA
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
C2 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 11,593
Likes: 173
From: Clayton NC
Mark,
My motor is a 327 that is bored .040 over with a 350 crank. I used AFR 195 heads that I cut down from 68 cc chambered heads to 64 cc. I used a MLS .026 head gasket with the pistons .010 in the hole for about 10.5 static compression ratio. Then the cam is a Comp Cams 282HR .230/.236 .510/.520 on a 110 LSA if I recall correctly. It is a roller with the Pro Mag 1.5 roller rockers. It's got a pretty good idle and pulls like a freight train from 1500 to 6500...
HITCH
My motor is a 327 that is bored .040 over with a 350 crank. I used AFR 195 heads that I cut down from 68 cc chambered heads to 64 cc. I used a MLS .026 head gasket with the pistons .010 in the hole for about 10.5 static compression ratio. Then the cam is a Comp Cams 282HR .230/.236 .510/.520 on a 110 LSA if I recall correctly. It is a roller with the Pro Mag 1.5 roller rockers. It's got a pretty good idle and pulls like a freight train from 1500 to 6500...
HITCH
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 10,770
Likes: 2,199
From: Golden Colorado
off road cam
I have run the 1st design that part number ends in 140. It is an awesome cam with light car, 4spd and a gear. 2nd design is for the cross ram trans am set up and really only a good high RPM cam, soggy bottom end. I know, been there, done that!