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I just want to reinforce the fact that an older version of a quality, USA-made jack can usually be repaired using just a new seal kit. I have a Blackhawk floor jack and a Walker engine hoist that are both about 45 years old. Within the last ten years, they each began to leak, and I rebuilt them with a new seal kit that cost about $30 each. They are both working fine now I and I expect them to continue working fine for another 30+ years.
The skill required to re-seal the hydraulic cylinder in these devices is about the same as rebuilding the master cylinder for a car's brake system. It's pretty straight-forward. And, unlike the risk that a master cylinder bore will be corroded due to the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid, hydraulic jack fluid is not hygroscopic and there is typically no corrosion of the cylinder at all. Typically, they just need new seals to be restored to like-new condition.
I can't recall where I got the rebuild kits, but all I did was to google the manufacturer, model number, and the term "rebuid kit" to find a supplier.
Personally, I get a lot of satisfaction from continuing to use the same high-quality USA-made tools that I purchased 45 years ago. Those tools have served me well through dozens of car projects, and they are sort of like old friends to me now.
Personally, I get a lot of satisfaction from continuing to use the same high-quality USA-made tools that I purchased 45 years ago. Those tools have served me well through dozens of car projects, and they are sort of like old friends to me now.
I have 2 of those aluminum HF jacks, and a Craftsman I bought about 35 years ago. Science might not agree, but I can tell you that Craftsman has tripled in weight over the years - it's heavier than a dead preacher and is NOT my go-to for most tasks. If I could roll back my legs, back and shoulders 35 years, I'd be more apt to use it.
I just want to reinforce the fact that an older version of a quality, USA-made jack can usually be repaired using just a new seal kit. I have a Blackhawk floor jack and a Walker engine hoist that are both about 45 years old. Within the last ten years, they each began to leak, and I rebuilt them with a new seal kit that cost about $30 each. They are both working fine now I and I expect them to continue working fine for another 30+ years.
The skill required to re-seal the hydraulic cylinder in these devices is about the same as rebuilding the master cylinder for a car's brake system. It's pretty straight-forward. And, unlike the risk that a master cylinder bore will be corroded due to the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid, hydraulic jack fluid is not hygroscopic and there is typically no corrosion of the cylinder at all. Typically, they just need new seals to be restored to like-new condition.
I can't recall where I got the rebuild kits, but all I did was to google the manufacturer, model number, and the term "rebuid kit" to find a supplier.
Personally, I get a lot of satisfaction from continuing to use the same high-quality USA-made tools that I purchased 45 years ago. Those tools have served me well through dozens of car projects, and they are sort of like old friends to me now.
While I mostly agree, removing the cylinder end cap on these old jacks can be problematic. Walker takes a special spanner wrench and you’re dealing with 500 ft-# torque. The Hein-Werners are even more complicated. Once those hurdles are past, you can look forward to many more years of pleasant usage .
Last edited by pop23235; Aug 13, 2023 at 01:19 PM.
While I mostly agree, removing the cylinder end cap on these old jacks can be problematic. Walker takes a special spinner wrench and you’re dealing with 500 ft-# torque. The Hein-Werners are even more complicated. Once those hurdles are past, you can look forward to many more years of pleasant usage .
That’s the problem I had. My always reliable 40+ year old Hein Werner floor jack developed a leak and would only pump up about halfway. Not wanting to replace it with a China piece a rebuild seal kit was ordered up.
Simple enough to install the seals, I could not get the bottle top nut loosened to remove it. The best I could come up with was using a large pipe wrench and long length of galvanized pipe for leverage. No dice.
The bottle was taken to a local hydraulic shop to have them do it. I was told even the shop had a difficult time removing that top nut.
John
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