1960 window HELP!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 377
From: Knoxville, TN
2020 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
1960 window HELP!
Situation...The car has power windows. I went to lower the drivers window and it came down in the rear but the front of the window came down about half way. I removed the metal panel on the door and looked in with a mirror and light but don't know what I'm looking for. I'm hoping I don't need to remove the window. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Bud
Thanks, Bud
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
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Army
Most times the window will hang up on the window stops when this happens. Occasionally the door garnish at the front of the window at the bend will roll up against the glass and bind things up. I’m not home so I can’t post pictures right now.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 377
From: Knoxville, TN
2020 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Window help
When I lower the window, the rear goes all the way down and the front hangs up about half but a hear a load clunk when it hits whatever is in the way. If both the and back of the glass came down evenly until the halfway point then just the rear part of the glass continued retracting, I would think it’s hanging up on something. But, as soon as I lower the window, the rear of the glass drops faster than the front. If it means anything, when I raise the window, the back comes up even with the front the the entire window goes up normally.
Last edited by Captain Bud; Mar 19, 2018 at 11:13 AM. Reason: Wrong word
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 12,468
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From: Camp Verde AZ
C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
2017 C1 of Year Finalist
There are two rollers taht go into the metal window channel the glass sits in.
You need to verify both rollers are in the channel, and are actually round, and not broken
The rollers are white nylon, and one is on the end of each arm of the window raiser.
Doug
You need to verify both rollers are in the channel, and are actually round, and not broken
The rollers are white nylon, and one is on the end of each arm of the window raiser.
Doug
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
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Army
With the door panel off you can remove the access plates and look around inside to diagnose the problem. That difference between the front and rear of the window when it blinds makes me think Doug is right. Something has come loose.
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Brett Foote
Team Owner
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Army
After you fix enough of these types of PW problems you'll learn to 'bump' the window switch lightly as it approaches its upper or lower full travel. Driving the window full speed in either direction to the limit can cause the funky C1 window configuration to screw up in a variety of ways...window stops and garnishes are favorite snag points...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 377
From: Knoxville, TN
2020 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Frank, both you and Doug we right on the money. All fixed except I screwed putting the door panel back on. I fixed all the holes with sheet metal and that worked great except I didn't position the panel correctly before I drilled holes in the sheet metal. No big deal, just drill out the pop rivets and put on new sheet metal pieces. Thanks again, Bud
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
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Army
That's great. As I said (and you can see here) the SPW power window conversion is FAST, nothing like an original setup. So things can get a bit dicey if you rocket them up and down as fast as they'll go, as far as they will go...the window hardware is simply not configured to deal with it!
I'm actually runnin' 'em a little too fast (not 'bumping' the switch) at the limits in this video:
I'm actually runnin' 'em a little too fast (not 'bumping' the switch) at the limits in this video:
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Mar 19, 2018 at 06:18 PM.