Roger Walling

[QUOTE=Kerrmudgeon;1596826170]The only true way to get rid of the corrosion of years in the block recesses is to PULL the motor, knock out the freeze plugs and poke around to get into the corners as much as you can, and maybe steam clean with a hi temp pressure washer in all those openings. Otherwise you're just whistling dixie.


I agree.

I removed the core plugs on my engine block and used a 2500 lb pressure washer until the water became clear. I then sent it out to be boiled. When it came back I repeated the pressure wash and was amazed on how much junk came out!

MikeM

[QUOTE=Kerrmudgeon;1596826170]The only true way to get rid of the corrosion of years in the block recesses is to PULL the motor, knock out the freeze plugs and poke around to get into the corners as much as you can, and maybe steam clean with a hi temp pressure washer in all those openings. Otherwise you're just whistling dixie.



https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...system.943881/

Like I said above, use an acid to get into the nooks and crannies. Otherwise, I think yer whistlin' Dixie poking around with a wire inside a drain hole or core plug hole.

BB767

If you've never removed those engine block drain plugs before, the passenger side plug is a little hard to find for the first time.

This picture is of the L79 engine in my '66 coupe with the passenger side, block drain plug removed (yellow arrow).



A spark plug wire is in that clip at the drain plug's 4 o'clock position which also partially blocks your view of the drain plug's location.

The white arrow is pointing to part of the chrome ignition shielding that, as I recall, needed to be moved to get to that drain plug without damaging the shielding. Seen here it's been pushed up, out of the way. The starter is in the bottom left corner of the picture with a plastic bag over it. I cover the starter to prevent coolant and debris coming out of the drain plug from getting all over and perhaps in the starter.

The first time I flushed the block I found that the previous owner had installed hex headed brass plugs with thread sealant on them. I called him up and thanked him for doing so since it made my job so much easier. Those plugs came out easily.

The drivers side drain plug is easy to locate and service.



Having a lift to service those block drain plugs is a BIG help. It's a bit of a chore to drain the block but that's the only way to properly flush it and it does get easier the more you do it.

Good luck!

Thomas

pop23235

Dub, here is the setup. You can see the plug and the Evaporust standing in the water jacket. The pipe out the side is visible. After a day or so, drain and flush. The CI is grey and clean.

esema

I recently replaced the radiator on my 61 with a new DeWitts. To flush the block after removing the old radiator I made up a device to bypass it using PVC pipe to connect the upper and lower inlets/outlets at the thermostat housing and water pump. Removed the thermostat and brought the flush up to temperature several times before draining it with block drains.

I second the use of Evaporust...that stuff is magic.

I also installed a Gano filter on the upper radiator hose to block any residual debris from getting into the new DeWitts radiator.

I've got a pic of the setup somewhere if you want I can post it.

61ratvette

ESEMA I would like to see pic of the gano filter please and thx..

esema

Quick Reply (not)