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Note that you'll HAVE to get that broken column tube repaired as shown above - there's no such thing as a replacement or reproduction '67 column - it's a one-year-only part.
Thanks Kerrmudgeon. You are right. A lot of great people here. And thank you to the rest of you guys as well.
gb, that is the driver side near the tail.Here are some of the numbers I found on driver side near the shift levers.
This was from the passenger side.
I know these aren't the best, but what I have right now.
These are correct numbers for 1967 wide ratio and close ratio MUNCIE 4 SPEED TRANS used in 1967. You build date appears to be P7 B11, which is P= MUNCIE, 7= YEAR, B11 = FEBRUARY 11 WHEN THE TRANS WAS ASSEMBLED. I need to know the vin number so we can figure what motor and trans dates are correct.
I see NASSAU blue paint on the underwood rear whether strip. And the hardtop you say was also blue. Maybe the same car. I see the CORVETTE metal emblem script on the driver side front hood? The hood may be from a 66 Nassau blue car.
And yes, 427 / 390hp motor had one 4 barrel carb. It also could have been a 400hp, which had the 3x2 carb set up similar to the 435hp motors. The differential is BIG BLOCK, and the tach is redline for 327/350hp and 427/390 and 427/400 hp motors.
If you join NCRS [ NATIONAL CORVETTE RESTORERS SOCIETY ] you will discover all the book and assembly manuals available at their store. The TEXAS CHAPTER has a great bunch of Texas members [ 285 at last count] See www.ncrs.org for info.
Last edited by jimgessner; 06-18-2018 at 01:44 AM.
Thanks RRman. Actually I’m building the dolly over the frame so I will only have four corners.
Forgot a couple questions.
1. What causes the steering colum to break like that?
2. When I get the body on the dolly, would it hurt to use my pressure washer to clean out the engine compartment?
And forgot another pic as well. Early on when everyone was pointing out the details I remember it being mentioned that it was to bad someone cut the fuel line. Here is a pic of the cut and it doesn’t look very clean. Just thought I would show the fine craftsmanship.
I wonder if the steering column was compressed and broken in a front end collision of some sort...maybe the same time the original front end fibreglass was damaged??
Thanks RRman. Actually I’m building the dolly over the frame so I will only have four corners.
Forgot a couple questions.
1. What causes the steering colum to break like that?
2. When I get the body on the dolly, would it hurt to use my pressure washer to clean out the engine compartment?
And forgot another pic as well. Early on when everyone was pointing out the details I remember it being mentioned that it was to bad someone cut the fuel line. Here is a pic of the cut and it doesn’t look very clean. Just thought I would show the fine craftsmanship.
TO ANSWER QUESTION
1. What causes the steering colum to break like that?
THIS WIRE MESS WAS GM'S FIRST ATTEMPT ON A SAFETY STEERING COLUMN DESIGNED TO COLLAPSE VS HURT YOU IN A FRONTAL ACCIDENT. IT WORKED WHEN YOUR CAR HAD ITS FRONT ACCIDENT.
Thanks Jim. Thr car was born on Dec 5, 1966 so I'm sure they removed the trans when they swapped the motor. Trim tag shows it was a goodwood green car. I new the wire mesh was for safety, I just figured it would have compressed on itself like an accordion in a major accident. Right now it appears it stays inline with the contours on the rest of the mesh when you slide it back together and more of a straight break all the way around. But then again, I don't know if it was designed to break or compress. I did not have the two screws that are supposed to be under the instrument bezel area and my wife wondered if it was from people pulling on the steering wheel to get out?
I was going to take the body off this weekend but the wife screwed everything up by wanting to have it painted while we work on the frame. So now we are taking everything off to be ready to go to paint when the space opens up. I'll break down some of the progress in a couple post. Used my discount tire rebate cards to by plastic tubs for all these parts. Not sure what the stamp on the door means as it was only on the driver side. The door job numbers match the other one I found so far.
I swore I read that there were trim clips all around the outer windshield molding. So after an hour of digging out what looks like plumbers putty and finding no clips, I gently start moving the side piece and off it pops. Go to the other side after removing two screws and gently pop it off. Move to the top and look at all the holes across the window frame with a light. See all the nuts and remove them and off pops the top piece. So now I have come to the bottom and they appear to have clips so I will work on those later this week. Is this plumbers putty stuff original or was this windshield replaced at some point?
Forgot to add the speaker in the radio section. I know the speaker is a replacement, but is the cardboard mesh piece original?
No it is not original. Other than the metal grill/screen, there was nothing else covering the speaker.
Having said that, it was not uncommon for folks to add some type of 'speaker cloth' screen when replacing an old speaker back in the day to provide some additional protection from direct sunlight. It was also difficult to see and had little detrimental effect on the sound from the speaker.
The boy and I got the engine and trans out today. I read several removal threads here and ended up getting a leveler. Not sure if I did it the best way but it is out and no broken bones or fiberglass. It was actually easier than what I stressed about. I want to thank Slalomfiend for loaning me his engine hoist and stand. The chain was to short to go to the exhaust and the brackets were to big to fit on the intake without using about an inch of washers. I chose to take the intake off. Thing is I forgot about the water in the block but was quickly reminded when we had the angle going on. I had concerns about this motor being in a bind but think it was all do to me trying to use a strap wrench on the crank pulley and not having enough room or leverage to get a good turn. I borrow one of those flywheel plier gadgets and was able to turn the motor easily. The valves opened and closed as well. I thought the inside looked fairly good for sitting since 86. Drained out the rest of the 20w50 my brother used to run. I'm not sure if this the right bell housing either?
Thanks Vette5311. I guess it is possible that it came with the car. Forgot to add the photo of the 30 year old oil.
Of interest the two BB that are listed are 66 SHP and 67 with Aluminum heads, I would have thought 11 clutch inch for sure but if I remember correctly the L88 had a 10 1/2 also. Go Figure
Of interest the two BB that are listed are 66 SHP and 67 with Aluminum heads, I would have thought 11 clutch inch for sure but if I remember correctly the L88 had a 10 1/2 also. Go Figure
06-17-2018, 10:11 PM
