Kerrmudgeon

Very interesting!......you can always tell your wife that your new hobby of being an auto detective is better than running around with other women! She knows where you are and what you're doing.

As you're finding out it's a whole new recreation including meeting the nicest people out there. Include your wife and get together with other owners and their wives. She'll love all the new adventures. thanks for the pics.

Maybe one day you'll restore it to a Big block car.

NightshiftHD

Ok thanks for the firewall pics. I am confirming the car was "most likely" started life as a 427-390 L36. Here's why:

1. this pop-riveted harness clip for the starter wires was only on BB cars
2. the larger front sway bar you measured is BB only
3. The rear sway bar is a BB only
4. caps on rear half shafts are BB only
5. looks like you have a BB rad, and there is no overflow tank
6. The "LC" sticker on your cluster configuration fits an L36

Somewhere along the line the car has been downgraded to a SB. Maybe due to heavy frontend damage where the original BB hood was not repairable, and a used 66 SB replacement hood would have been cheaper.

For what its worth. Bill

smacota1

Yep...that's what it is.Not standard.

Bluestripe67

The plug w/two wires coming out of it attaches to a male connector at the bottom far screw of the fan motor. Trying to figure out some wires can be helped if you clean off the dirt and crud from a small patch. All wires are color coded and that leds to finding the attaching points for mystery objects. Late note: the two holes highest on the fender hold the overflow hose between a correct SB rad ant the overflow tank. The bracket for the heater hoses is hanging there. Choke lever is NOT factory. Dennis

gbvette62

Big blocks in general. All big blocks weigh more than small blocks, regardless of horse power. Even the aluminum head 67-69 big blocks, weighed more than a small block.

I can't really tell where that is on the trans, but even if it doesn't have a VIN stamp, there should be other info stamped on the trans.

The VIN, and other, info was stamped vertically on the right side of the lower rear of the transmission case, just ahead of the transmission tail shaft housing. All Muncies had a one or two letter code (S, SU, or P) stamped there, followed by a number for the year (such as a 7 for 67), a letter for the month (A through T - F,G,I,J,L,N,O & Q weren't used), and finally 2 numbers for the day (01 through 31). A passenger car or over the counter trans, wouldn't have a VIN stamp, but that other info would still be stamped the case.

Is the trans a Muncie? A lot of cars have had other transmissions swapped into them, including newer Super T-10's. The ST-10's had the VIN and assembly information, stamped on the left top rear of the trans.

elwood13

Thanks Kerrmudgeon. You are right. A lot of great people here. And thank you to the rest of you guys as well.

gb, that is the driver side near the tail.Here are some of the numbers I found on driver side near the shift levers.





This was from the passenger side.









I know these aren't the best, but what I have right now.

elwood13

One more thing. Since mine and jprop's were built a day apart,was the assembly line set up to do just big blocks for so long and then change to small blocks or did they build both at the same time?

ricks327

Here is a picture of my 67 trans when removed from the car. It should give you a good idea where the VIN is stamped.
Rick

elwood13

Thanks Ricks. In the pic that gb reposted a few pics up is the same spot where your vin is I think, if the red part is on the tail. I should have rotated the picture. That endoscope goes all kinds of crazy.

Disregard the jprop comment. For some reason I thought his was a big block.

elwood13

here it is rotated.

hcallaway

Congratulations on the purchase of your brothers car. Love the color. Yours looks like it is very solid underneath. I have a lot more to deal with on the 64 we just got home. I look forward to seeing what you do. Ours is up and running, but I don't think you would want to go any distance without the trailer hooked up and ready to rescue. Good Luck!!!

Rob_64-365

I am glad to see you got your brothers car, and i must say, it looks a lot better than you had originally described it, so that's awesome. I was thinking you were not going to end up with this car, but it's great to hear you can carry on the family tradition!!

elwood13

Thanks hcallaway. Yours looks like will be fun to watch as well.

Thanks Rob. Its better in some places than I thought and worse in others. As you could tell from the first pics, you couldn't see it behind all the stuff and I had to go with what I remembered and what my kids said when they saw it outside last.

LouieM

Your Sting Ray and mine (a Goodwood Green ragtop) have the same Dec 7, 1966 birthday. Cool

elwood13

So if we think a lot of the chassis is a big block car, when I look for bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends etc, do I look for big block parts or are they all the same except for the sway bars? Wife was curious about how much it cost just to get this car safely driving. I know all the rubber underneath is bad and I guess the easiest way to figure out all the replaceable parts is to go through the manual and check them off. On a side note, I got excited thinking I saw the tank sheet but I believe it was dirt. The tank is empty though and full rusty crap. Also my sister in law found the keys today so I won't have to deal with that.

As always, thanks in advance.

And does anybody in the DFW area know any good machine shops?

NightshiftHD

All the suspension parts are used for both SB & BB ... except for the larger sway bar in the front, and no rear sway bar on SB cars. And as we've already mentioned, the half shafts have stronger bolted caps on the yokes on BB cars whereas SB's use u-bolts. Bill

elwood13

67's

You can raise and lower the headlights without the keys.

Bluestripe67

Most likely the headlight gear box on each side will need a gear replacement. At the sametime you can test the motors for operation. Dennis

elwood13