....add electric fans and look at new larger radiator. Heat is always a problem w C2s

 

Real question should be any clues as to the value of an all original car with a ready state, fully detailed, original engine displayed nicely on a stand and a brand new high horse 350 in the car?

 

My first thought as well.

 

Apples and oranges we can compare what a real 67 L88 sold for vs what a 64 250hp auto coupe sells for too. And if you think your car will be worth that think again

 

If the born with engine is good and useable and comes with the car the value should be the same as if it was on the car. It only creates a problem when time to sell and you must move the car and engine

 

Having gone through this recently with my 383 built for my 1957 I can tell you that is a deal on that engine.

It depends on how you drive your car. If you rebuild the original it will cost you approx. $3K and you will likely not pound on it as you might like to for fear of destroying the original engine. With the other engine you will not have that fear.

Personally I would spend the extra $2K for the other engine and store the original. Unless someone is bent over checking your pad stamping they will never know it is not the original AND they are in perfect position for a kick in the ***.

 

Mike, I'm confused , are you saying by merely putting a new engine in his '67 he's created a resto-mod....far from it !

when you said 'get rid of' I assume you did not mean that literally ?

 

I'll drink to that!

 

You bore it .030 over and stroke it to 3.75" and you get a 383.

 

 

Buy the other engine...update cooling as previously mentioned...I'd also do the clutch and other accessories as well.

You'll be in it for more than $5K but that new engine is a great piece...your original engine on a stand doesn't hurt a thing.

 

I want to jump in, the OP is willing to take out his L79 and keep it while installing a 383 with 425 HP. Kind of like what many owners did as soon as a big block option came available back in 1965. Some like more power.
As far a Crate Motors being the answer to all. You have not been around much if you have not seen a bad crate motor. All machine shops try to put out good work but it does not always happen. Crate engines are built in machine shops not in magic shops.
I have seen some Ford Racing engines direct from Ford that had terrible cylinder wall finish. It should not happen but it does.
This engine he mentions is with a Machine Shop he trusts, the parts list he mentioned is a very high dollar list. Callies is top of line for cranks I believe the $1,000 estimate cost of this crank is low. They are expensive but great quality. Night and day better than the cheap cast crank installed in most crate engines. Sorry, just the facts.
Built at 10.5:1 it is fairly mild and will most likely be a great engine to play with.
I would say it is a no brainer considering he stated he trusts this shop.
Chevrolet did not make many changes when they dropped in the 450 HP 427 in 1966. I'm sure this gentleman can make a few upgrades just like GM did.
I would do it and keep the L79 in case he want to go back to it or sell the car some day.
In the meantime HAVE FUN with it.

 

There is a great article, here on the forum, about the wonderful 3959512 you are talking about...
Finally found my CE 512 large journal 327

I think it would be pretty cool, but certainly keep your original engine and have it rebuilt.

Have fun with the new engine, and when it is time to sell the car, swap it back in.

 

I second that!

 

The engine you're looking at sounds great, except for the .060" overbore. It is bored to the limit, so no more rebuilds if need be. I'd ultrasound check all bores for thickness before I bought it, especially important on the thrust side of the bores where deformation can easily happen if too thin.

Take a look at this:
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com...thickness.976/

The 2818 carb is too small for a 383, and the L79 manifold is a boat anchor. You need an LT1/Z28 intake if you want the original look. Flows same as the Edelbrock performer and no comparison to the L79 intake. You need AT LEAST a 650 cfm carb for a big cube engine. If it were mine, I'd use a 750.

Radiator upgrade not necessary unless yours is old/leaking. Harrison repop (DeWitt's) is excellent and with a puller fan behind it, is more than enough for your 383. The puller fan, WITH THE PROPER SHROUD THAT TOM DEWITT CAN ADVISE YOU ON is light years better than the same radiator with the stock fan/fan clutch system.

 

I would stay away from a 60 over engine it will over heat.

 

I have seen what you describe. It can also lead to water jacket failures after some run time. In my opinion going 60 over is a last ditch effort to save an original engine and NOT a choice I would sign off on when looking for a performance upgrade.

 

Looks like the forum has once again come to unanimous agreement!

 

I'm sure a number of Forum Members have gone .060 over on their 327's and had no overheating problems, myself included, but with all the work that was done on this 512 block, any idea of they sonic checked the cylinder bores to ensure there was no core shift?
Mike T - Prescott AZ

 

Buying or building a .060 over engine is like buying a 10 year old dog....