Dennis
[C2] Remove ammeter without pulling cluster?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,145
Army
Just did this on my split window (a bunch of times; replacing a bad original fuel gauge with a bad looking repro; then re-installing an NOS gauge)...
Disconnect the battery, then, remove the front seat, put a pillow in the DS footwell...remove the two screws holding that round ring (escutcheon) around the steering column up against the cluster. With the 1/4X20 stand offs in place of the cluster housing mounting screws, pull the cluster forward as far as you can (the steering column ring will get pushed forward too).
Remove the headlight switch; remove the headlight bucket rollover switch, disconnect the connectors at the fuel and amp gauges...remove the light bulb and socket from the double gauge housing.
With a 1/4" socket remove the three screws holding the double gauge housing for the amp/fuel gauge. There may be a capacitor on the amp gauge secured by the bottom screw, so note its location and connection.
Carefully pull the double gauge housing out of the main cluster, turning it enough to clear the cluster and pull it down for removal...
Disconnect the battery, then, remove the front seat, put a pillow in the DS footwell...remove the two screws holding that round ring (escutcheon) around the steering column up against the cluster. With the 1/4X20 stand offs in place of the cluster housing mounting screws, pull the cluster forward as far as you can (the steering column ring will get pushed forward too).
Remove the headlight switch; remove the headlight bucket rollover switch, disconnect the connectors at the fuel and amp gauges...remove the light bulb and socket from the double gauge housing.
With a 1/4" socket remove the three screws holding the double gauge housing for the amp/fuel gauge. There may be a capacitor on the amp gauge secured by the bottom screw, so note its location and connection.
Carefully pull the double gauge housing out of the main cluster, turning it enough to clear the cluster and pull it down for removal...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,751
Likes: 137
From: Chantilly Virginia
Thanks guys, well, at least I qualify in the small hands requirement.
What bugs me is that I caused the problem with the ammeter by accidently shorting the positive alternator lead to the alternator body. (while picking up + 12 volts for a timing light) The ammeter is now pegged beyond the +40 mark, but still shows deflection down if I turn on the headlights. I believe the ammeter is still good - just gotta get into it to see what's going on.
Ralph
What bugs me is that I caused the problem with the ammeter by accidently shorting the positive alternator lead to the alternator body. (while picking up + 12 volts for a timing light) The ammeter is now pegged beyond the +40 mark, but still shows deflection down if I turn on the headlights. I believe the ammeter is still good - just gotta get into it to see what's going on.
Ralph
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,154
Likes: 4,168
From: Kannapolis NC
Before you take it out, briefly connect a 1.5v aa or aaa battery to the ammeter leads with a jumper,(car battery disconnected). The polarity that you connect it that causes the ammeter to deflect back toward the center is the correct polarity. If you tap the leads briefly to the two ammeter leads in the correct direction, the needle may center back up and work fine.
Edit: I would suggest clipping a jumper to each leg of the ammeter where the black and the black/white wire connect and let them hang down and then touch the other ends of the jumpers across the small battery until it deflects in the correct direction. May take more than one try.
Edit: I would suggest clipping a jumper to each leg of the ammeter where the black and the black/white wire connect and let them hang down and then touch the other ends of the jumpers across the small battery until it deflects in the correct direction. May take more than one try.
Last edited by 65GGvert; May 9, 2018 at 09:46 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,751
Likes: 137
From: Chantilly Virginia
Before you take it out, briefly connect a 1.5v aa or aaa battery to the ammeter leads with a jumper,(car battery disconnected). The polarity that you connect it that causes the ammeter to deflect back toward the center is the correct polarity. If you tap the leads briefly to the two ammeter leads in the correct direction, the needle may center back up and work fine.
Edit: I would suggest clipping a jumper to each leg of the ammeter where the black and the black/white wire connect and let them hang down and then touch the other ends of the jumpers across the small battery until it deflects in the correct direction. May take more than one try.
Edit: I would suggest clipping a jumper to each leg of the ammeter where the black and the black/white wire connect and let them hang down and then touch the other ends of the jumpers across the small battery until it deflects in the correct direction. May take more than one try.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,751
Likes: 137
From: Chantilly Virginia
Capacitor on Ammeter - which terminal?
It appears that I've gotten the ammeter to work and it's being re-installed now. When I first removed the connector from the back of the ammeter, a capacitor lead came with it. Looks like a piggy back connection of some sort.
The question is which side of the connector does it go to - the black wire or the white and black? I know one side makes its way to the horn relay, so I'm assuming the capacitor goes there. However, I'm not successful in interpreting the wiring diagrams to see which wire that is.
UPDATE: Finally found the capacitor in the AM. It is not specific as to wire color, but the illustration shows it piggy-backing on the outboard terminal which is the black wire.
Ralph
The question is which side of the connector does it go to - the black wire or the white and black? I know one side makes its way to the horn relay, so I'm assuming the capacitor goes there. However, I'm not successful in interpreting the wiring diagrams to see which wire that is.
UPDATE: Finally found the capacitor in the AM. It is not specific as to wire color, but the illustration shows it piggy-backing on the outboard terminal which is the black wire.
Ralph
Last edited by After38Years; May 12, 2018 at 10:45 AM. Reason: Update
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Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,154
Likes: 4,168
From: Kannapolis NC
It appears that I've gotten the ammeter to work and it's being re-installed now. When I first removed the connector from the back of the ammeter, a capacitor lead came with it. Looks like a piggy back connection of some sort.
The question is which side of the connector does it go to - the black wire or the white and black? I know one side makes its way to the horn relay, so I'm assuming the capacitor goes there. However, I'm not successful in interpreting the wiring diagrams to see which wire that is.
UPDATE: Finally found the capacitor in the AM. It is not specific as to wire color, but the illustration shows it piggy-backing on the outboard terminal which is the black wire.
Ralph
The question is which side of the connector does it go to - the black wire or the white and black? I know one side makes its way to the horn relay, so I'm assuming the capacitor goes there. However, I'm not successful in interpreting the wiring diagrams to see which wire that is.
UPDATE: Finally found the capacitor in the AM. It is not specific as to wire color, but the illustration shows it piggy-backing on the outboard terminal which is the black wire.
Ralph
Did connecting the small battery and reversing leads fix it or did you find something else?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,751
Likes: 137
From: Chantilly Virginia
Slid the cluster out a few inches and, blessed with small hands, was able to get the ammeter/fuel gauge out. Took the ammeter apart and rotated the shaft 180 degrees. It appears to be working but time will tell. I'll get it out for a short drive this afternoon.
Last edited by After38Years; May 12, 2018 at 01:24 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,751
Likes: 137
From: Chantilly Virginia
I did try the AA battery trick, but it would peg, usually at the +40 side, but occasionally at the -40. Only one polarity application would cause a deflection. Swapping polarities did nothing. Could not get it to center. I don't have an explanation for why that would be, but it is working now.
Last edited by After38Years; May 13, 2018 at 07:18 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,154
Likes: 4,168
From: Kannapolis NC
I did try the AA battery trick, but it would peg, usually at the +40 side, but occasionally at the -40. Only one polarity application would cause a deflection. Swapping polarities did nothing. Could not get it to center. I don't have an explanation for why that would be, but it is working now.