Well, it happened. We were out for a cruise in the afternoon and then dusk came about as we had stopped for refreshments. Hit the headlight bucket switch and nothing. Found one wheel on the drivers side missing when I thought about cranking them open. Had rebuilt the motors and gear boxes about 2 years ago. Even after the rebuild they worked very slow. Luckily, we were close to home and I turned on the running lights and headed out.

After troubleshooting, I found the switch was not making good contact. An ohm measurement showed 4 to 6 ohms resistance in both directions. I didn't think that would prevent them from opening, but decided to disassemble the switch.

I cut the plastic nibs off of the back of the switch to remove the phenolic cover (nothing to lose) and then jumpered from the hot wire contact to the opening contact. The headlights opened. Same with the close.

Disassemble the switch and found the contacts (similar to ignition points) were oxidized, but not severely pitted. Cleaned them off with 400 grit paper, coated them with NO-OX, and reassembled the switch. Glued the phenolic cover back on the switch to the nibs (tested it and got 0 ohms in both directions) and reinstalled it.

The buckets finally operate properly and faster and more even than ever before. The passenger's side bucket is now just a little slower than the driver's side bucket.

Here are some (poor quality) pictures for the newbies like me for a first time evolution. There are no strong springs nor surprises. Easy task.

Just a learning experience on a simple task I thought I would share.

Ron

 

I see that on here fairly often, and my car is the same way -- the right side is a little slower than the left.

 

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but you shouldn't have to break off anything to disassemble the switch. It should come apart by moving the clip holder slightly so it clears the "nubs". Then snap back together.

Press in at the two holes to release clips:

 

You are right, I removed the back of the connector as it seemed to not be making contact with the pins on the switch. I tightened up the three brass connectors inside as I thought that may have been the problem.
Ended up it was the switch it's self.
Thanks for the correction - Sorry about the confusion.

Ron

 

Good find and I will bookmark this for when I rebuild my interior/dash/wiring:

Note: check all switches' resistance readings before reassembly.

 

If nothing else you should preserve the original headlight rollover switch outer housing....even if you have to buy a repro and more the internals to the original housing. The repro housings look like Stevie Wonder made them with his feet.