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headlight switch schematic

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Old Jun 12, 2018 | 05:08 PM
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Default headlight switch schematic

I am scoping a little project for next winter. I'm going to modify the wire harness so that my headlights automatically open and close when I turn the headlights on and off. I'm also considering using a light sensor to have the headlights automatically turn on when it gets dark. If I do that, then I need to understand exactly how the dash headlight switch works. That switch turns on dash gauge lights, headlights and high beam indicators, etc. So, if I have the headlights turn on automatically with a light sensor, I'd lose all that if I'm not careful. So, I would like to see a schematic of how the headlight switch works. Does anybody have that?
Thanks!
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Old Jun 12, 2018 | 06:09 PM
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Thanks but no thanks. Please don't help me with stuff I did not ask about.

I already have a wiring diagram. I already know how to wire the headlights to automatically open and I'm NOT trying to use the signal from the headlight switch to power the motors. NONE OF THAT IS WHAT I ASKED.

MY ORIGINAL QUESTION: Does anybody have a schematic of how the headlight switch works?

I have a 1966. I should have mentioned that.
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Old Jun 12, 2018 | 07:47 PM
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I have a wiring diagram. I know what wires are connected to the switch physically.

I want to know how they are connected internally inside the switch. So, when the switch is pulled out, at each stage, how are which wires connected? Then, I will understand exactly how the switch works and can design a circuit with a light sensor that will mimic the same functionality.
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Old Jun 12, 2018 | 10:09 PM
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On my 1963 Corvette there are six wires connecting to the headlight switch. One is for power to the switch and it is hot all the time. When the switch is pulled half way out internal connections direct power to a) the wire to the front parking lights, b) the wire to the rear parking lights, and c) the internal rheostat that sends power to the wire for the dash lights depending how the **** is rotated. When the **** is pulled all the way out an additional contact is closed sending power to the wire to the headlight dimmer switch and the headlight telltale light on the dash, and the contact to the front parking lights is opened. There is one more wire that controls (not takes) power to the cabin courtesy lights when the **** is rotated fully (I don't remember which direction). I would think that with your schematic you could figure out which is which.

As I count them, that means the switch has five functions:
1. Off
2. Parking lights on
3. Dash lights on and adjusted
4. Headlights and telltale on (via the dimmer) and front parking lights off
5. Courtesy lights on

Last edited by kellsdad; Jun 13, 2018 at 08:27 AM. Reason: I remembered something else.
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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 05:54 AM
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FYI

The 63 headlight switch is shaped differently and the wires attached differently than the 64-67 switch, if you start comparing them.

You may consider this helpful -- or not; and its beyond your original question but something you'll have to deal with if you're "...scoping a little project". The intent is to keep you from re-inventing the wheel.

Your problem is not just electrical current load; the separate manual headlight rollover switch is there (in part) so the operator can 'let off' the switch, physically, when the headlights are fully opened/closed and not overdrive the motors.

Your hookup will have to have a way to determine when to stop the headlight movement at either extreme as there is no electrical limit switch in the system. You can't have power applied to the motors constantly.....which is why Detroit Speed uses current limiting. I don't see a way around adding those if you intend to keep the original motors....

See 10:57 minutes into this video shows the relay wiring to accomplish this:


That is Part 2; Part 1 will tell you how to add true electrical limiting switches.

Some of which 65GGVert, one of the most helpful and electrically savvy guys on here, was trying to get across.

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jun 13, 2018 at 06:01 AM.
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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DiabolicalDave
I am scoping a little project for next winter. I'm going to modify the wire harness so that my headlights automatically open and close when I turn the headlights on and off. I'm also considering using a light sensor to have the headlights automatically turn on when it gets dark. If I do that, then I need to understand exactly how the dash headlight switch works. That switch turns on dash gauge lights, headlights and high beam indicators, etc. So, if I have the headlights turn on automatically with a light sensor, I'd lose all that if I'm not careful. So, I would like to see a schematic of how the headlight switch works. Does anybody have that?
Thanks!
Not sure exactly what you want. Figuring out how the switch works is pretty simple with a meter. Here is a pin out, and a picture of the top side of a switch.






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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 07:28 AM
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Hey Mike. Yeah you’re right I can figure it out basically just looking at it and knowing how it works. Maybe I am a little overly cautious in that I like to gather as much existing information as I can first. I had not been able to find anything explicitly showing the switch functionality- which would be nice to have as a confirmation that I hadn’t overlooked anything.

At at this point I have just about decided not to try to replace the switch with a light sensor and other automation. Too much complexity for a relatively small benefit.

I am going to do the auto-open thing. I’m not breaking any new ground there. I will convert to LED and rebuild the entire HL assembly while I’m at it.
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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 03:01 PM
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Let me know if you decide to pursue this project , I am doing the same with real limit switches. I also found a switch that will allow retaining the flashing "lights" in the gauge cluster. I also made a jig for drilling the holes for the switches in the precise location, unlike the jackass in the video above.








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Old Jun 13, 2018 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by buns
Let me know if you decide to pursue this project , I am doing the same with real limit switches. I also found a switch that will allow retaining the flashing "lights" in the gauge cluster. I also made a jig for drilling the holes for the switches in the precise location, unlike the jackass in the video above.
IM sent
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Old Jun 14, 2018 | 01:09 PM
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I'm really not in to the private message deal, but I would be more than happy to discuss this on the open forum so other members can share their knowledge.
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